C'roy78stroker
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Is the cryogenic process worth the hype for strength improvement? Will a cryod forged rod be worth the hassle or should a guy just spring for aftermarket rods for the occasional 700hp blast?
Cryo treating connecting rod ?s
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emev0l
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Well, 700 will never break Crower or Carrillo rods, something else might let go, but the rods wont be the problem.
Cryo'd forged rods are stronger then non cryo'd forged rods.
How much stronger? Nobody knows.
It's all a gamble, I'm pretty rough on my toys so I went with a set of Crowers.
Aftermarket rods are going to run you around $2,700
I've sold several sets of cryo'd forged rods and have never heard that any have let go, but I don't know how much power anyone threw at them.
How far do you plan to take the rest of the motor? Girdle, fully balanced, cam, de-liped/ceramic/teflon pistons? Or just a freshen up with a girdle?
If you're going to spend a lot of money on all the rest of the parts and you're expecting 700rwhp, I would say spend the money on some rods. If you're not getting crazy and aren't to worried about popping a motor and throwing another in if it lets go, then maybe just cryos.
Cryo'd forged rods are stronger then non cryo'd forged rods.
How much stronger? Nobody knows.
It's all a gamble, I'm pretty rough on my toys so I went with a set of Crowers.
Aftermarket rods are going to run you around $2,700
I've sold several sets of cryo'd forged rods and have never heard that any have let go, but I don't know how much power anyone threw at them.
How far do you plan to take the rest of the motor? Girdle, fully balanced, cam, de-liped/ceramic/teflon pistons? Or just a freshen up with a girdle?
If you're going to spend a lot of money on all the rest of the parts and you're expecting 700rwhp, I would say spend the money on some rods. If you're not getting crazy and aren't to worried about popping a motor and throwing another in if it lets go, then maybe just cryos.
C'roy78stroker
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I have a 468, girdle, and t4 up pipes acquired so far. I've been following a thread on cams trying to set that in stone. Definitely plan on balancing everything. I have 2 spare engines so I was trying to decide whether or not to chance one of the blocks and find out what kind of stout the cryod rods were.
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emev0l
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Great turbo
Just make sure the machine shop line hones your mains with the girdle torqued down.
Just make sure the machine shop line hones your mains with the girdle torqued down.
02BigD
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Having bent 3 such rods with 100% hybrids...see where this is going?
C'roy78stroker
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I was hoping for some input/feedback. Not what I had hoped for but valued information non the less. Any idea what your approx power level was at the time?
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02BigD
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Well, I'm pretty hard on the truck but not stupid hard. Didn't want to spend the coin on billet rods. Was running a 66/71 modded H2e, 355/100's and the truck was stick back then.
Low/mid 500's depending on the day.
With the fact that you already committed to balancing, do rods and do it once.
Low/mid 500's depending on the day.
With the fact that you already committed to balancing, do rods and do it once.
David N
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And an S468 that spools relatively well down low is gonna be hell on those stock rods.
Powerstroker7.3
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I blew up a pmr motor with just 250/100 and a 38r. I know forged rods are stronger but if your gonna try to hit 700 you better just get a set of carillo rods or crowers. I am glad I built my motor instead of throwing a forged rod motor in mine cause I can beat on it every day and never worry
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powerjoke73
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I ended up just spending the money and getting Carillo rods. I also saw you mentioned something about a cam. I went a stage 2 cam from colt.
Any idea on what injector you want to go with yet?
Any idea on what injector you want to go with yet?
powerjoke73
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I ended up just spending the money and getting Carillo rods. I also saw you mentioned something about a cam. I went a stage 2 cam from colt.
Any idea on what injector you want to go with yet?
Any idea on what injector you want to go with yet?
mattman347
Member
Factory Forged rods can last if you build the engine correctly. Also, tuning obviously plays a huge role in keeping it all together. Mine has been going for a little while now with me beating on it often, but the stocker let go a ofter 10k above 600hp.
C'roy78stroker
Member
I planned on going light on the injectors (stage 2's) at first while I work out any bugs. Once I feel I've got it shaken down I'd like to go to at least 300-350/200's.
mattman347
Member
I would at least put he money into a small hybrid, that way when you go to upgrade you could just get those injectors re-worked.
Powerstroker7.3
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A 250/100 or 250/200 is a good place to start with injectors. I started with 250/100 in my truck
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02BigD
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That's exactly the reason I started with 355/100's. All I had to do was send them in and have the nozzles swapped.
C'roy78stroker
Member
Mattman, did you do a block fill with the engine your running now?
mattman347
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No fill, no girdle stock block, factory forged rods a lot of luck. :thumbsup:
C'roy78stroker
Member
Wow! And no wastegate? That's very impressive, especially throwing the towing factor in there. Sounds like there's is quite a bit of luck. Or spot on tuning... Does the 67 tow decently?
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