Dropping the rear fuel tank in OBS.

cbuttre835 · Sep 10, 2012

Ok so I have finally gathered parts for my bronco tank swap in my CCSB 97.

I dropped the spare tire and removed the two rear skid plate bolts. Very rusty, this truck is.

Having to do a lot of sawzall work. Bottom of the tank is quite rusty on the outside. Hence my "water in fuel" and rusty fuel bowl woes...

I assume I need to remove the three screws holding the filler neck housing to the truck bed, to let that hose drop with the tank.

It got dark on me where I couldn't see well.

What about the wire and plumbing? What should I take loose before removing the two front bolts / nuts and letting the thing drop to the ground? Or is there enough slack in that assembly?

:doh::morons:

Curtis@Vision Diesel · Sep 10, 2012

Take off the return line, and then there is wiring plug up on the frame rail that you can unclip and your good to go.
But yes you need to undue the hose clamp closest to the tank and that hose will slide off. Sometimes you need to put a screwdriver or twist the hose to break it loose in order for the tank to drop.
Give us a call if you need any help.

cbuttre835 · Sep 11, 2012

OK cool thanks. Assume I don't have to fight that lock ring till it's dropped, correct?

PsRumors · Sep 11, 2012

cbuttre835 said:
OK cool thanks. Assume I don't have to fight that lock ring till it's dropped, correct?

Correct

Curtis@Vision Diesel · Sep 11, 2012

cbuttre835 said:
OK cool thanks. Assume I don't have to fight that lock ring till it's dropped, correct?

You got it.

mjonesjr · Sep 11, 2012

Taking the bed off will be 100x easier, even now. Putting the tank back in with the bed off SUCKS.

cbuttre835 · Sep 11, 2012

mjonesjr said:
Taking the bed off will be 100x easier, even now. Putting the tank back in with the bed off SUCKS.

I thought about that, but truck has a topper and the bed is rhino-lined. Don't know how I'd dig that crap out of the bed bolts.

fatsix · Sep 12, 2012

uhm, the nuts are on the bottom. The rhino lining might help the bolts from spinning if the square hole rounds out.. Think carriage bolt. Might have an issue putting the bed back on and not getting the holes lined up before dropping the bed on. Could push the heads through the rhino lining.

cbuttre835 · Sep 13, 2012

fatsix said:
uhm, the nuts are on the bottom. The rhino lining might help the bolts from spinning if the square hole rounds out.. Think carriage bolt. Might have an issue putting the bed back on and not getting the holes lined up before dropping the bed on. Could push the heads through the rhino lining.

Aha. I thought they had a torx head on em. Didn't realize they were carriage bolts. That changes things... :doh:

cbuttre835 · Nov 12, 2012

mjonesjr said:
Taking the bed off will be 100x easier, even now. Putting the tank back in with the bed on SUCKS.

This is true. I damaged the factory lines and just can-not get them reconnected... aaargh!

Anyone make a kit to lenghten or otherwise replace the factory lines? About to cut the factory rubber crimped ones off where the stainless ends and use 3/8 fuel line.

Nic · Nov 12, 2012

I took the bed off..was much easier and nothing falling in your face

FrankTheTank · Nov 13, 2012

Agree with taking the bed off. Its only 6 bolts, an electrical plug, and 2 filler necks. My bed too was rhino lined and the bolts were covered. They all stayed in place and didn't move.

cbuttre835 · Nov 21, 2012

I gave up on taking the bed off, due to the camper shell and extreme rust on the nuts on the bottom of the bed bolts.

What I did to make it "easier", is buy a Dorman 800-159 double bead line fuel kit; which fit the factory fittings on one end and can be used with 3/8" and 5/16" line (the beads act like good barbs). I made them up to the sending unit with short (4" or so) pieces of hose and good stainless clamps. Set the tank and hook up the plug and vent; thread the hard steel lines across the cross member and now it's simple to hook them up without being over the tank.

Not the best way but I have a bad back and really have no able-bodied help getting the bed off and didn't want to mess with removing the camper shell.

Nic · Nov 21, 2012

LOL an angle grinder works too..Bed bolts are cheap brotha.. I found that the worst ones to get out are the ones closest to the cab. Had our tractor ready, got the bolts grinded off, then took to em with a pipe wrench and PB blast. Came out like a charm. Tank inspected, out and new one in faster than a lesbian leg fest. Lickedy split son...:redspotdance: