E4OD in limp mode? no crank/ no start

Buffalo444 · Oct 11, 2012

So the inner detent nut had fallen off of my manual shift lever for the 3rd time (this time it received loctite) and as I was working on it something electronic failed. here is how it went:

Pulled into the garage (barely, because I'm surprised it went into gear), got out of the truck, got on the floor and pushed back a bit on the manual lever to see if it was actually in park when i heard a click (the reason i did that was because at the time, i had thought maybe the shift cable was loose somewhere). After checking the rest of the cable, got back in the truck to make sure it was in park and try to start it. KOEO the "BRAKE (!)(P)" light was on constantly. Then:

No crank, no start. I thought "ok, maybe i broke the MLPS/TRS/NSS". Depending on who you ask it's one of the three. I pulled the shift cable off the shift arm and it spun pretty easily so I knew the detent was loose and the MLPS was probably shot.

So I drop the pan, loctite the detent on, button it back up, fill it up, and replace the MLPS. Turn the key to KOEO, no "BRAKE (!)(P)" light, but turn it to crank and still no crank, no start. So I figure "ok, maybe the starter relay just failed at the same time as all this". So I jump the starter relay and she cranks and fires right up...

Backing out of the garage, I see the O/D light is flashing, so i take it down the block and back. It now has a very firm/rough shift between all gears. Not slamming or flaring, but very quick and rough. So I clean up and limp it home.

So here's how it is now: Won't crank/start with just the key, and while pushed all the way forward to crank the "BRAKE (!)(P)" light does come, but is off just while in KOEO position. I can jump the relay and start it, but the O/D flashes and it shifts very firm/rough.

I have no way of pulling codes myself, but I am trying to get someone who can.

Any ideas? Help is greatly appreciated.

Buffalo444 · Oct 11, 2012

Mark Kovalsky · Oct 11, 2012

Buffalo444 said:
Any ideas? Help is greatly appreciated.

Not without the codes. I agree it's something electrical, but without codes I don't know what it is.

Buffalo444 · Oct 11, 2012

Mark Kovalsky said:
Not without the codes. I agree it's something electrical, but without codes I don't know what it is.

Are there any trans codes that would prevent the truck from cranking? Or is my starter relay shot?

Buffalo444 · Oct 11, 2012

apparently the NSS could be causing the no crank... even though i just replaced it.

Buffalo444 · Oct 11, 2012

Supposedly there is an alignment tool for the TRS, how do you use it and what does it do that you can't do by hand?

SPEEDDEMON31176 · Oct 12, 2012

There are two alignment lines on the mlps that need to be aligned with the transmission in neutral. Place the transmission in neutral and loosen the two 8mm bolts that hold the mlps on and align the two marks. One is on the body of the sensor the other is on the inner portion of the sensor that moves with the shift shaft. once aligned, tighten the two 8mm bolts and you should be good to go.

Buffalo444 · Oct 12, 2012

SPEEDDEMON31176 said:
There are two alignment lines on the mlps that need to be aligned with the transmission in neutral. Place the transmission in neutral and loosen the two 8mm bolts that hold the mlps on and align the two marks. One is on the body of the sensor the other is on the inner portion of the sensor that moves with the shift shaft. once aligned, tighten the two 8mm bolts and you should be good to go.

See, i tried that, but there isn't enough play with them loosened to get them lined up. I can get it close, but not perfectly aligned

Buffalo444 · Oct 12, 2012

DTC's

P0113 Intake air temp. sensor circuit high input
P0603 Internal control module KAM error
P0708 TR sensor circuit high input

Buffalo444 · Oct 12, 2012

Mark Kovalsky · Oct 12, 2012

There is something wrong with the TRS, the alignment of the TRS, or the wiring to the TRS. That is most likely what is preventing it from cranking.

Buffalo444 · Oct 13, 2012

How damaging is it to drive in that condition?

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SPEEDDEMON31176 · Oct 14, 2012

If it isn't starting off in the correct gear then you are causing excessive slippage of the clutches in the trans along with creating excessive heat which isn't good for the trans either. If you can not adjust the mlps easily then either the mlps is damaged or you have the transmission in a gear other than neutral when trying to align it.

Buffalo444 · Oct 14, 2012

SPEEDDEMON31176 said:
If it isn't starting off in the correct gear then you are causing excessive slippage of the clutches in the trans along with creating excessive heat which isn't good for the trans either. If you can not adjust the mlps easily then either the mlps is damaged or you have the transmission in a gear other than neutral when trying to align it.

Well, it starts off in the right gear, and it has never gotten over 120*. I did have it in neutral when trying to align it so.... :dunno:

Mark Kovalsky · Oct 14, 2012

Buffalo444 said:
How damaging is it to drive in that condition?

It won't hurt it.

SPEEDDEMON31176 said:
If it isn't starting off in the correct gear then you are causing excessive slippage of the clutches in the trans along with creating excessive heat which isn't good for the trans either.

Ignore that. It is not right.

If it is slipping the clutches when starting in the wrong gear there is much more wrong than the sensor. If the clutches are slipping the fluid will be burnt black and the clutches will be destroyed in a few seconds. That doesn't happen from starting in the wrong gear.

Buffalo444 said:
Well, it starts off in the right gear, and it has never gotten over 120*. I did have it in neutral when trying to align it so.... :dunno:

You may need to get a good scan tool to look at live data. See what the sensor is indicating for shifter position. Does it indicate each gear, i.e., P, R, N, D, 2, 1?

Buffalo444 · Oct 14, 2012

Mark Kovalsky said:
It won't hurt it.

Ignore that. It is not right.

If it is slipping the clutches when starting in the wrong gear there is much more wrong than the sensor. If the clutches are slipping the fluid will be burnt black and the clutches will be destroyed in a few seconds. That doesn't happen from starting in the wrong gear.

You may need to get a good scan tool to look at live data. See what the sensor is indicating for shifter position. Does it indicate each gear, i.e., P, R, N, D, 2, 1?

Oh yeah, we did that too. In every position it showed 1st gear.

Mark Kovalsky · Oct 14, 2012

There is another variable that will show the shifter position. I don't know what it is called, the tools I used to use were different and showed parameters you can't look at. But even so the one you looked at will show 1 in every position EXCEPT 2 should show 2.

Buffalo444 · Oct 14, 2012

Mark Kovalsky said:
There is another variable that will show the shifter position. I don't know what it is called, the tools I used to use were different and showed parameters you can't look at. But even so the one you looked at will show 1 in every position EXCEPT 2 should show 2.

Well it even showed 1 in 2 as far as I know. I can ask the guy who scanned it, he's my room mate. lol.

There was another one that was similarly named, but showed a voltage input from the TRS, not actual positions.

Tom S · Oct 14, 2012

Buffalo444 said:
DTC's

P0113 Intake air temp. sensor circuit high input
P0603 Internal control module KAM error
P0708 TR sensor circuit high input

Sounds to me like an open in that circuit either in the wiring or a bad TRS. I think I would investigate that. I am not at home to look at the EVTM to figure it out.