E99 7.3 Running like chit

WILD_PHIL · Mar 23, 2015

Well I definitely fixed the issue. I disconnected all of the plenum boots and realigned everything. Also disconnected the injection harness and blew it out with air duster. Just took it out for a test run and it's chitin and getting it now.

Hopefully yall can help me with this. I have a T500 HPOP. While feeling around I noticed a thin nut was damn near hanging off a built in bolt.

It has this on the bolt.

I disassembled that stuff and put it back on tightening it up. Could that be the cause if my valley oil leak? There were only a couple of ounces of oil there, but still enough to make me nervous.

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

psduser1 · Mar 23, 2015

WILD_PHIL said:
Well I definitely fixed the issue. I disconnected all of the plenum boots and realigned everything. Also disconnected the injection harness and blew it out with air duster. Just took it out for a test run and it's chitin and getting it now.

Hopefully yall can help me with this. I have a T500 HPOP. While feeling around I noticed a thin nut was damn near hanging off a built in bolt.

It has this on the bolt.

I disassembled that stuff and put it back on tightening it up. Could that be the cause if my valley oil leak? There were only a couple of ounces of oil there, but still enough to make me nervous.

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

Thats the ipr. Not the source of your oil leak. Put the coil back on, snug the nut back down, and let it be.
If you've got a leak, go buy 3-4 cans of brakekleen, and a roll of rags. Spend a couple hrs getting everything sparkly clean. That's the only way you'll start nailing down oil leaks.

WILD_PHIL · Mar 23, 2015

Yes sir. I started started cleaning it, but knew I'd have to devote an afternoon to cleaning it.

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

ghohouston · Mar 23, 2015

The ipr solenoid being loose like that can definitely cause issues too. How did the harness to it look?

WILD_PHIL · Mar 23, 2015

IPR was loose. The intercooler turbo elbow was kind of loose also. The harness didn't look to terribly bad.

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

Arisley · Mar 24, 2015

Yep, that little tin nut holds the IPR solenoid on. It being loose would have caused issues.

dsberman94 · Mar 24, 2015

Have fun changing that HPOP. I just did it. Not the greatest amount of joy I've ever had working on my truck.

Arisley · Mar 24, 2015

HPOP, 30 minutes max. Easy Peasy.

Why would he have to change an HPOP?

dsberman94 · Mar 24, 2015

If that's what the oil leak is...

Jomax · Mar 24, 2015

Arisley said:
HPOP, 30 minutes max. Easy Peasy.

Why would he have to change an HPOP?

30min? That's not messing around lol. Don't see how. Unless you change these every day.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

ghohouston · Mar 24, 2015

dsberman94 said:
Have fun changing that HPOP. I just did it. Not the greatest amount of joy I've ever had working on my truck.

Replacing an hpop gave you that much trouble?

dsberman94 · Mar 24, 2015

ghohouston said:
Replacing an hpop gave you that much trouble?

I'm not in a fully supplied shop.

Arisley · Mar 24, 2015

dsberman94 said:
If that's what the oil leak is...

Looks like if it is from the HPOP, it is hose connector orings.

Jomax said:
30min? That's not messing around lol. Don't see how. Unless you change these every day.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

A little faster with no fuel bowl in the way, and strictly diesel gear cover.

ghohouston said:
Replacing an hpop gave you that much trouble?

dsberman94 said:
I'm not in a fully supplied shop.

My driveway is not a fully supplied shop. Air for the gear does make it easier though.

psduser1 · Mar 24, 2015

Arisley said:
Looks like if it is from the HPOP, it is hose connector orings.

A little faster with no fuel bowl in the way, and strictly diesel gear cover.

My driveway is not a fully supplied shop. Air for the gear does make it easier though.

Rr, a good gear bolt cover, yeah 30 minutes.

If it's the fitting o rings, they're pretty cheap, about a 10 minute job, especially if you spend the money for the little tool. 20 minutes if you make the tool, lol.
Before you change the o rings, check the crimp fitting on the hose, I've seen them weep, also. No fix for that, except to replace the hose.
Looking at the pic again though, I don't think the orings are leaking.

dsberman94 · Mar 24, 2015

Tool made life so easy. Loved having it. Air tools would have made it so easy on the gear bolt. Carson said he fits a 3/8 drive impact gun in there for it. That would have been awesome if I had one and air.

Arisley · Mar 24, 2015

Without air, one breaker bar on the crank, bar against the ground, use a cheater if needed.

One breaker bar on the gear nut. Smack it with a dead blow. Done.

ghohouston · Mar 24, 2015

The only timed I've replaced a 7.3 hpop, I used a long 1/2" drive ratchet with a deep socket, and just smacked the ratchet hard counter clockwise, didn't even have to hold the crank, and the bolt loosened up. I think I just hit it with a 1/2" impact on re installation and called it good. I wouldn't recommend re installation with an impact though. Can you imagine breaking that bolt off if the gear wasn't seated right?

psduser1 · Mar 24, 2015

Break the bolt loose before you pull the belt. It's only 100 ft/lbs, +/-.

mandkole · Mar 24, 2015

I couldn't recall being able to get an impact in there with the shroud and fan... hold the crank still and put 100 lb/ft on it. It will stay tight once the washer under the gear bolt has a load on it.