Electric Fuel System Questions.

Big Bore

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I had another look at the connection at the fuel pump and it appears to be a "Banjo" fitting with the two lines going into the fitting. the fitting is between the Banjo Bolt and the fuel pump. If you removed the banjo bolt and the fuel pump you'd have a ring with two fuel lines coming out of the side.

Yep.
 

Big Bore

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This is a pic of the vibra loc fitting where those lines coming off the banjo connect to the head. If you go back and look at PSRumors post you can see he just made new lines with a flare nut on one end and reused the vibra lok on the other. If you enter the words vibra lok in a search engine you will be able to find parts easily.


vibra1.jpg


TomS did his by cutting the lines off of the banjo and them sliding tubing over them with high quality clamps, I believe he double clamped them.
 

Big Bore

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Is it a nightmare getting the existing lines off without buggering up the fitting in the head?


It shouldn't be, but...

The nut that secures the line to the fitting in the head will come off fairly easily and shouldn't be an issue, but the lines themselves are very soft and thats where I had my problems. You should be able to get in there and remove the vibra lok compression nut fairly easily.
 

Tom S

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I did not reuse the stock lines to feed the back of the heads. I made new stainless lines with a short section of pushlock hose for flex.

Anyone that is thinking about this that is not a tinker in the garage like me might be best off to wait for the system from Dennis.
 

old man dave

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There are two different fuel fitting assemblies for the vibrolock connection to the head on the drivers side. Federal and at least 97 California. My 97 Federal engine had a hard cast 90* fitting. My 97 California truck had a two piece assembly and could not be retightened with the turbo in place. Bean had anticipated this and included the modified fuel rail plug to avoid this. He did provide a cap/plug (can't remember which) to plug the original fuel fitting. I pulled the turbo and installed a 1/8"npt plug in place of the original fitting.

I used Aeroquip hose in place of the pushlock hose which made plumbing up the works easy compared to using steel lines. The downside of hose is that it is not "forever" stuff like steel tubing.
 
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Big Bore

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I did not reuse the stock lines to feed the back of the heads. I made new stainless lines with a short section of pushlock hose for flex.

Sorry Tom, it's been at least a couple years since I saw the pics of what you did, and for some reason that's what I remembered. I knew it went from tube to hose.
 

Irishcream

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What fittings do i need to connect the return lines into the Aeromotive FPR?
I also need to plug the hole where the fuel pump is coming out of. I've read that a 7/8 frost plug is what is used.
 

Tom S

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That size frost plug sounds right. The fittings on the regulator depend on which one you purchase.
 

Tom S

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You can tell what size a normal AN-Hydraulic fitting is typically by the size of the wrench that fits it.
 

Hehman250

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Around the perimeter of the plug were it contacts the bore. I put a beans kit on and they recomended puting a bead of silicone around it as well.
 

Irishcream

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I guess there's not much pressure on the plug so the dimpling is fine around the outside. No need for high temp silicone as well I'd assume. My fear with the frost plug was punching it into the motor but everyone seems to recommend this size. I'm still at a loss for the fittings going into the regulator. -6 an into the regulator but not sure what it is going into the stock return lines.
 

Irishcream

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the shop I got the regulator at has all the fittings, just don't wanna pay a shop to tell me what I need. maybe they will do me a favor and have a quick peek under the hood.
 

Irishcream

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Well, I did the install and let me tell you.
WHAT A NIGHTMARE.
The parts guy got me the wrong fitting for the banjo bolt so then I was stuck with no way to hook up the fuel to the back of the heads. The two wire plug going into the ICP on the HPOP were bare wires because the fuel had eaten away at the insulation. it has had a fuel leak for quite a while leaking in the valley. the reason I was converting in the first place.
I cut the wires and changed the plug pins. Not sure what difference if any this will make.
having no banjo bolt fitting I decided to cut the fuel lines at the banjo circle. Not too easy with a Die grinder but got it done. I then had to build a three way fitting block with 3 barb fittings. Not pretty but if it gets me down the road i will build a better system later. got the pump out of the way and put in a plug into the factory tappet hole until I get the illusive 7/8 frost plug. I still have to wire in the pump and run the line from the out on the filter housing to the steel line I removed the factory line from.
Should I take off the fuel line at the y before the two steel lines going into the head when I initially run the pump for the first time? I filled the two filters but I don't want any air going through the head on the first start up. I'm hoping to get the truck running and upgrade all the parts once it's back on the road piece by piece. i sure hate working under time restraints.
 

Whytry

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When I did mine I just let the pump prime 2 full cycles then hit the key and it fired right up like normal.
 

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