engine/tranny pull?

[Patrick Feeley]

If you have a manual trans, there is no sense in leaving the clutch with the trans (torque converter with an auto, yes). The clutch can remain bolted to the flywheel when the engine is removed. You're going to have to line up the clutch disk with the flywheel pilot bearing anyway. Cheers!

 

[JohnT24]

So pull it your way, guys here were giving you input on how they do it to make it easier. The engine is heavy coupled with a heavy trans + tcase that’s long as a small car I believe you will run into issues getting it out but it will come out as you intend it too. If you were that torn down I’d lift the cab off. Please video you pulling it so we can all see it.

You’re misunderstanding what I’m trying to accomplish here.

I am not looking to pull the transfer case or the transmission.

I want to leave those in place


I am only looking to remove the engine.

 

[Addicted4]

You can’t get the engine out without pulling the trans back, the motor can’t go far enough forward to clear the clutch with the input shaft of the trans. The oil pan will hit the cross member.

 

[JohnT24]

If you have a manual trans, there is no sense in leaving the clutch with the trans (torque converter with an auto, yes). The clutch can remain bolted to the flywheel when the engine is removed. You're going to have to line up the clutch disk with the flywheel pilot bearing anyway. Cheers!

Yes I understand all that but
I was addressing post #11

Seems to me
If you unbolt the clutch from the fly wheel and leave the clutch on the transmission shaft,

There will be no alignment necessary.

Simply bolt the engine back onto the bell housing

Am I missing something here?

 

[JohnT24]

You can’t get the engine out without pulling the trans back, the motor can’t go far enough forward to clear the clutch with the input shaft of the trans. The oil pan will hit the cross member.

Post # 11

 

[Addicted4]

Try it and see. Get in the shop and just do it then. I don’t understand why we are just debating it. Just remember torquing the pressure plate back down needs to be done in a star pattern at different intervals to provide uniformity to the disk. That should be the fun rotating the motor over several times.

 

[JohnT24]

Try it and see. Get in the shop and just do it then. I don’t understand why we are just debating it. Just remember torquing the pressure plate back down needs to be done in a star pattern at different intervals to provide uniformity to the disk. That should be the fun rotating the motor over several times.

I can’t speak for everyone here but I personally am not debating anything.

I’m just looking for input.


And I appreciate the help from everyone so far.

Thanks

 

[JohnT24]

Whatever happens
I’ll let you guys know how it worked out.

Good or bad

 

[6.0 Tech]

You can’t get the engine out without pulling the trans back, the motor can’t go far enough forward to clear the clutch with the input shaft of the trans. The oil pan will hit the cross member.

^This right here will be an issue, if you pull the clutch and leave the trans in the truck. I have gotten them out with a manual still installed, but ****ed **** up going back in.

If this is a 5 speed, it’s a bit lighter, the zf-6 is a heavy mfer. Had someone tell me once it’s heavier than any of the automatics. Another thing you may run into with hanging the tranny off the back of the motor is aligning motor to cross member, it’s gonna be tilted way the **** back. Don’t know if it would even come out with the tcase still on it, as it will be dragging on the ground most likely. You’d probably have to have the truck about 2 feet in the air to get the right angle.

Personally, the 45 minutes it takes to pull the trans is way worth it. Get a cheap harbor freight pos floor trans jack, cut 2 holes for the trans mount, mount the trans to the jack. Drop trans and transfer case together, slide it back to where the input shaft is clear of the pressure plate and pull the motor. If you’re not ****ing with the back of the motor, don’t pull the clutch and don’t turn the input shaft on the trans. Should slide right in with no issues.


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[JohnT24]

cut 2 holes for the trans mount, mount the trans to the jack.

That’s a very smart idea.
I like it.

Sure beats some of these guys I’ve seen on the YouTube.
With a pump jack, pieces of wood and ratchet straps….

 

[JohnT24]

OK another question:

If I pull
The rear driveshaft out of the transfer case, will it leak fluid?

Or should I drain the transfer case before removing the shaft?

 

[Addicted4]

It shouldn’t

 

[6.0 Tech]

OK another question:

If I pull
The rear driveshaft out of the transfer case, will it leak fluid?

Or should I drain the transfer case before removing the shaft?

Depends on the angle you work at. If the tcase tips back enough to where the fluid sloshes you the output shaft, it will leak some. Probably not all though


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[JohnT24]

Thank you


Got the front and rear disconnected but the double cardon joint looks like a major pain in the azz


I will leave it in place for now when I pull it but I would like to replace those U joints

Rusted 8mm/12 point
F to the U

Plasma cutter standing by.