epb valve

hotrod

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Ok so i have a 96 powerstroke with a ts 6 position chip my buddy says i need to change out my epb valve for a gutted on. So my question is where can i find this part an how hard is it to change?
 

TyCorr

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Get a chilton or hanes manual. It outlines common parts, where they are, and how to service them.

The valve can be expensive to get rid of altogether depending on your course of action. Some guys take a drill and dremel to the setup and cut it out. Others put the valve in an open position and unhook it. I removed the valve assembly and put a different turbo pedestal that eliminates the whole system. Like it was never there.

The option I used cost me 130 for the pedestal, 100 for the turbine discharge, and an hour to switch it all out.
 

kramarj

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If you buy a deleted pedistal you can use a freeze plug that costs $.29 at napa to plug the hole in the exhaust housing. It is way cheaper and still gets the job done just as good. Just another thought.
 

TyCorr

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If you buy a deleted pedistal you can use a freeze plug that costs $.29 at napa to plug the hole in the exhaust housing. It is way cheaper and still gets the job done just as good. Just another thought.

Along those linez you could keep the pedestal and just gut it...its ugly and doeznt do anything to give you more room.
 

kramarj

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Along those linez you could keep the pedestal and just gut it...its ugly and doeznt do anything to give you more room.

Huh? I deleted my ebpv. I bought the deleted pedistal and I used the freeze plug to plug the hole in the bottom of the exhaust housing where the flapper (not sure what the correct term is) was. I have seen a ton of people do it this way. I understand you can buy this part that is casted with the hole plugged up, but I don't see spening like $100 when you can spend like $.30 and get the same results. This is where the freeze plug goes-
2779868800102418002S600x600Q85.png
 

hotrod

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Get a chilton or hanes manual. It outlines common parts, where they are, and how to service them.

The valve can be expensive to get rid of altogether depending on your course of action. Some guys take a drill and dremel to the setup and cut it out. Others put the valve in an open position and unhook it. I removed the valve assembly and put a different turbo pedestal that eliminates the whole system. Like it was never there.

The option I used cost me 130 for the pedestal, 100 for the turbine discharge, and an hour to switch it all out.
So tycorr if i do it ur way do u have any suggestions on what to get and where should i get it
 

TyCorr

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Huh? I deleted my ebpv. I bought the deleted pedistal and I used the freeze plug to plug the hole in the bottom of the exhaust housing where the flapper (not sure what the correct term is) was. I have seen a ton of people do it this way. I understand you can buy this part that is casted with the hole plugged up, but I don't see spening like $100 when you can spend like $.30 and get the same results. This is where the freeze plug goes-
2779868800102418002S600x600Q85.png

So tycorr if i do it ur way do u have any suggestions on what to get and where should i get it

@kramarj-you are speaking.of modding the existing.ebpv housing. Using plugs to eliminate the resultant holes. Right? I expanded on that concept and said he could keep his pedestal and gut it as well. Same theme on both parts right? He would.be gutting.both parts versus buying one gutting the other. I personally didnt like the looks of the gutted ebpv housing and the discharge orifice was SMALL so I didnt see the point in running a 4" exh that is coming out a 2 1/2" hole. That was my reasoning for spending a hundred bucks on that part. Kinda defeats the purpose of performance exhaust, lol.

@op-I ordered the.parts to do this delete process from beans. I ordered a "non-complex pedestal" and a "van style" adapter. Now.before anybody jumps.my ass I KNOW a van turbine discharge isnt the part. Its listed as a "van style" adapter,fwiw. I did this three years ago and the sotp feel was worth the.price of admission.
 

kramarj

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@kramarj-you are speaking.of modding the existing.ebpv housing. Using plugs to eliminate the resultant holes. Right? I expanded on that concept and said he could keep his pedestal and gut it as well. Same theme on both parts right? He would.be gutting.both parts versus buying one gutting the other. I personally didnt like the looks of the gutted ebpv housing and the discharge orifice was SMALL so I didnt see the point in running a 4" exh that is coming out a 2 1/2" hole. That was my reasoning for spending a hundred bucks on that part. Kinda defeats the purpose of performance exhaust, lol.

Yes I used a freeze plug instead of buying the alternative housing that you have, if I am thinking of the same housing you used. The idea is the same either way, my way is cheaper, but I do like the fact that with your's the freeze plug cannot fail, but if done right the freeze plug won't fail. Either way works.
 
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TyCorr

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Yes I used a freeze plug instead of buying the alternative housing that you have, if I am thinking of the same housing you used. The idea is the same either way, my way is cheaper, but I do like the fact that with your's the freeze plug cannot fail, but if done right the freeze plug won't fail. Either way works.

Yea, it gets rid.of the butterfly. The size(dia) of the orifice(where the downpipe attaches) is unchanged however. While you can attach a 4"dp to that gutted housing you are trying to push 4"but are failing at the very beginning by pushing through the tiny turbine discharge orifice. Mine is 4" from turbo discharge to the tailpipe. I could tell a pretty good difference in throttle response. Imo, if money isnt the biggest criteria for doing this mod a different(larger) exh turbine discharge adapter is necessary. Jmho.

Gutting the pedestal and the housing are also totally doable. It depends what a guys expectations, budget, and performance goals are.
 

TyCorr

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you can gut the valve easy cut off wheel for ten min clean it up good and tig it shut bam you have a gutted pedistal

Taking a cutting.wheel to the valve assembly does nothing to address the pedestal portion of the system. The actuator housing would have to be cut out of the pedestal and the penetration through which it passes would have to be tapped and plugged also.
 

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