failure points of 700 - 900 hp trucks

[Riverside]

Looking to talk about what the consensus is on what parts fail in the 700 - 900 hp or higher range.

We all know anything can break at anytime for no reason what so ever......just look at factory pistons.

As a pre filter, let's assume pistons, rods, studs, valve train, hpfp's health is good, tranny is built.....basically the know areas are addressed and precautions have been taken.

Let's also say good maintenance has and will be performed.

I also am aware stuff last based on how it treated.
With that said, a truck in this power range is going to get driven as such......but not endlessly beat on.


With that, let's take it from there.

 

[Riverside]

An afterthought.

There are lots of threads on how to make HP.

Let's take this thread as what it takes to maintain a built truck.

Stuff like :

- What your problems were after getting to this power range.

- your fixes

- what you do to maintain it.

I've seen lots of threads on "how much should I build it" for xxxx HP.

Let's see what happens after its built.

 

[Jonnydime]

Open a separate savings account and keep a minimum of $10k in it. When you are at that power level anything could go at any time.

 

[madman1234509]

Well if your pistons, rods, studs, and valve train are all in good order, that's basically the entire engine.... I'd say you're good to go haha. Pistons and rods are my biggest concern at this point. I'd say keep up on basic maintenance and just be prepared for anything. I do my oil every 3k miles, fuel filter every other oil change. I'll pull my tranny this winter to see how it's holding up and replace what's needed.

 

[JrStroker]

Very interested in this thread

 

[Blowby]

Just keep the power level to 699.9 hp and you should be fine.

 

[Breaking Habits]

Well.. Past the mid 700's and you can expect the lowered compression bent rod mod.. Ask me how I know?

 

[jdgleason]

Like Madman said... Oil health I think is important. I don't plan on my truck making it to 3k on an oil change. Transmission fluid becomes more important as well. I plan to change mine every 15k or so. Fuel filters are a must - these trucks move a lot of fuel.

Aside from that, the rear pinion, and driveshaft/u joints are something to pay attention to. Rear end should be checked fairly frequently.

 

[pog]

I don't plan on my truck making it to 3k on an oil change.

send me your "old" oil LOL

 

[RSK]

Well.. Past the mid 700's and you can expect the lowered compression bent rod mod.. Ask me how I know?

have you seen tcase's let go pulling as much as you do?

Like Madman said... Oil health I think is important. I don't plan on my truck making it to 3k on an oil change. Transmission fluid becomes more important as well. I plan to change mine every 15k or so. Fuel filters are a must - these trucks move a lot of fuel.

Aside from that, the rear pinion, and driveshaft/u joints are something to pay attention to. Rear end should be checked fairly frequently.

how about the tcase? brakes i'd imagine, really they should be upgraded atleast the fronts anyways to something bigger. 450's have 14.5" rotors and probably better calipers but not sure if there is anything worth doing with 450 brakes on 350 axles. probably just better to stick with the wilwood mr. mother***er kit. :jammin:

 

[dmkolb]

I built my truck with longevity in mind. Doesn't mean I'll get there but here’s hopin. Now when you say internal parts are in good working order are you speaking in terms of stock or have you upgraded these things? If your stock making this kind of power I bent a stock rod making 566 rwhp. So stock parts is a gamble.

Some of the stuff we did was billet rods, HD pistons, valve reliefs, de lipped, ceramic coated with total seal rings. Virtually no blow by. After market valve springs I would say is a must. If not valves are gonna float and hit pistons probably. I'd upgrade the pushrods as they have a tendency to flex and bend plus they are cheap. Replace your harmonic balancer. We had everything balanced by our machine shop. It just seemed like extra insurance. For extra cooling we installed a Bullet proof oil cooler and an aluminum oil pan. Oil temps run about 10 degrees cooler than coolant temps. As for filtration we have a spin on oil filter now with more capacity than the stock oil filter due to the oil cooler kit we installed. We also run a bypass oil filter along with it. This is just me and not looking for a debate but I go by oil analysis that I do on the truck every 6 months. I'll be going over a year without oil changes as long as the testing comes back good. So many things can fail and destroy an engine. I had an injector hang open with 117K miles on the engine and destroy my first engine. I'd say buy new injectors and if you have nozzles installed bench test them before installing them. Good fuel filtration is a must. If you’re making that kind of power you probably have installed a lift pump and that going to be a fuel filtration upgrade so you’re good there. I'm rambling as I think about some of the crap we did on my rig. HPFP. You'll be running a dual K16 pump setup. I would not want to use my old HPFP to save money. Buy a new one along with the one that will probably come in the dual setup kit. You don't want it giving up the ghost and sending metal through your fuel system and destroying your $400+ a piece injectors. I'd install a blow off valve as well since you'll be running a lot of boost most likely as well to help take some wear and tear off the engine. We even went as far as buying brand new heads from Ford and then having a bunch of machine shop work done to them. Lots of porting, 45 degree angle valve job, and some other stuff just so we new the heads were perfect. I'm probably leaving a bunch of stuff out.

Morgan Primm helped me a butt ton with my build with advice and lots and lots of parts. I'm not an expert but we tried to make my engine as strong as possible and even possibly went overboard so I didn't run into any problems. So far so good.

 

[Riverside]

Open a separate savings account and keep a minimum of $10k in it. When you are at that power level anything could go at any time.

Savings account......check
$10k in savings account.......ahh.....I own a 6.4 lol

Just keep the power level to 699.9 hp and you should be fine.

Yeah I agree with that.
That last .10 HP is risky

Well.. Past the mid 700's and you can expect the lowered compression bent rod mod.. Ask me how I know?

I'll bite........how :thumbsup:

 

[B585Ford]

I built my truck with longevity in mind. Doesn't mean I'll get there but here’s hopin. Now when you say internal parts are in good working order are you speaking in terms of stock or have you upgraded these things? If your stock making this kind of power I bent a stock rod making 566 rwhp. So stock parts is a gamble.

Some of the stuff we did was billet rods, HD pistons, valve reliefs, de lipped, ceramic coated with total seal rings. Virtually no blow by. After market valve springs I would say is a must. If not valves are gonna float and hit pistons probably. I'd upgrade the pushrods as they have a tendency to flex and bend plus they are cheap. Replace your harmonic balancer. We had everything balanced by our machine shop. It just seemed like extra insurance. For extra cooling we installed a Bullet proof oil cooler and an aluminum oil pan. Oil temps run about 10 degrees cooler than coolant temps. As for filtration we have a spin on oil filter now with more capacity than the stock oil filter due to the oil cooler kit we installed. We also run a bypass oil filter along with it. This is just me and not looking for a debate but I go by oil analysis that I do on the truck every 6 months. I'll be going over a year without oil changes as long as the testing comes back good. So many things can fail and destroy an engine. I had an injector hang open with 117K miles on the engine and destroy my first engine. I'd say buy new injectors and if you have nozzles installed bench test them before installing them. Good fuel filtration is a must. If you’re making that kind of power you probably have installed a lift pump and that going to be a fuel filtration upgrade so you’re good there. I'm rambling as I think about some of the crap we did on my rig. HPFP. You'll be running a dual K16 pump setup. I would not want to use my old HPFP to save money. Buy a new one along with the one that will probably come in the dual setup kit. You don't want it giving up the ghost and sending metal through your fuel system and destroying your $400+ a piece injectors. I'd install a blow off valve as well since you'll be running a lot of boost most likely as well to help take some wear and tear off the engine. We even went as far as buying brand new heads from Ford and then having a bunch of machine shop work done to them. Lots of porting, 45 degree angle valve job, and some other stuff just so we new the heads were perfect. I'm probably leaving a bunch of stuff out.

Morgan Primm helped me a butt ton with my build with advice and lots and lots of parts. I'm not an expert but we tried to make my engine as strong as possible and even possibly went overboard so I didn't run into any problems. So far so good.

I agree with ya on everything except the oil would be changed every 6 months minimum regardless of the analysis (I do agree on the analysis though) and on the HPFP. I would have a lot more faith in the original than I would in the remans. If you could truly get a new one, now that's a different story.

 

[Stroked777]

I think when people build a motor a lot of things are over looked like u joints, the ring and pinion, increase wear on axle bears due to higher power out put. Those are things to consider. You may say those are "fix em when they break" parts but if you let a wheel bearing get to bad it will leave you straned and you will be going home on a hook

 

[Breaking Habits]

I think when people build a motor a lot of things are over looked like u joints, the ring and pinion, increase wear on axle bears due to higher power out put. Those are things to consider. You may say those are "fix em when they break" parts but if you let a wheel bearing get to bad it will leave you straned and you will be going home on a hook

That or when you get a guy that doesnt touch his driveshafts, makes a 800-1000hp set up, then hooks it, shears the rear driveshaft and free spins 6k and it windows the block..

Yeah, it happens

 

[Stroked777]

That or when you get a guy that doesnt touch his driveshafts, makes a 800-1000hp set up, then hooks it, shears the rear driveshaft and free spins 6k and it windows the block..



Yeah, it happens

Or the guy in a 2.6 class xtra long be reg cab and you shear rear drive shafts and shock the front axle destroying everything up front. LOL sorry Morgan. But you built it stronger now hahaha

 

[mike@haller's]

The biggest issues I've seen with high hp trucks that get alot of mileage are leaks. Exhaust manifold bolts backing out, blown exhaust manifold gaskets. Boost leaks over time from high boost applications. Other thing is these highly modified trucks have alot of extra stuff that wasnt originally intended to be in the engine compartment. Stuff gets rubbed and wears. Also good air filter maintenance goes along way. Best thing is every oil change just go over everything really well and make sure all is good.