Ficm?
- Thread starter onebad7.3
- Start date
I would try programming it if you have the ability. Not sure if it will work, as it was programmed to another truck, butthe vins need to match and gking from one program file to another wilk probably screw with it, as far as running wise.
AirFishAutomotive
New member
If it went down to 17 volts cranking the ficm is bad if the batteries are in good cond. ficms can be swapped between years with no running issues. You may get a soft code for ficm incompatability. That wouldn't affect running cond. If the ficm had no program at all or it was "blank" it would show 0 for all parameters.
Btw if you need a good ficm we have them used and new in stock LOL
Btw if you need a good ficm we have them used and new in stock LOL
I had jumpers on the batteries when I checked the voltage, just to give it an extra boost.
I also have the jumpers on now with the different ficm in. Truck turns good.
The ficm is a rebuilt one out of Florida. My buddy bought it, if not for that, than yes Airfish I would need one.
With the old ficm the truck would smoke while cranking, but really wouldn't want to start. Sounded like not was hitting on two cylinders. Now with the rebuilt ficm, truck smokes the same, but sounds like its hitting on six cylinders. It wants to start, but it just won't.
I guess I should check the voltage with the new ficm?
AirFishAutomotive
New member
If you have access to one you need to do a buzz test and also check voltages koeo
Need more info as far as what was the truck doing prior to ficm swap, why was it swapped to begin with
Need more info as far as what was the truck doing prior to ficm swap, why was it swapped to begin with
Unfortunately, I have no access to anything that would scan or do a buzz test on a 6.0.
It was swapped because it wouldn't start when cold (40°). It would spit,fart, and sputter, but wouldn't start. If you plugged it for a few hours, it would would spit,fart and sputter like it was only trying to fire on 3 cyclinders. But longer you cranked it, it sounded like it was gradually starting to hit on more cylinders and eventually started.
When it did start, it ran very rough for 30 seconds. But after the 30 seconds, the thing ran like a raped ape. It would idle there just as smooth as smooth could be. Throttle respond was perfect.
Once the truck is warm, it will start right up until it gets cold again.
That's when I checked the ficm voltage, saw it dropped to 17 while cranking, I thought for sure the new ficm would take care of it.
With the new ficm, it still spits, farts, and sputters. But instead of sounding like its trying to start on 3 cylinders, it sounds like its trying to start on 5-6. Its better, but just won't start.
While cranking, before and after the new ficm, the smoke is black.
Did you check and make sure the 3 connectors are fully plugged in on the ficm? See a bunch of them with broken locking tabs, and the connector wont make full contact. I usually use a piece of 5/8 heater hose under the connectors when the locking tabs are broken.
Stupid question, but hav you tried putting fuel in it? 6.0 sending units arent the most reliable to go off of for fuel level. Buddy of mine put injectors in one, brought it to me as it ran like chit after. Gauge said 1/4-1/2 tank. Put 5 gallons in it and it ran fne.
You can try cracking the upper filter and key it on, make sure you have something coming out and not a ton of air. Other than that try taking the belt loose or off and see if it fires. Seems to be cranking fast enough, but without an actual rpm its hard to tell.
You can try cracking the upper filter and key it on, make sure you have something coming out and not a ton of air. Other than that try taking the belt loose or off and see if it fires. Seems to be cranking fast enough, but without an actual rpm its hard to tell.
I'm pretty sure the fuel level is OK, because if you do get the thing running, it runs perfect after 30 seconds.
Hmm, it does kind of act like air in the fuel. I'll check this out next.
I'll pull the belt off too, to see if it makes much difference.
Thanks for the info!
crcrawford87
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Possible cam or crank sensor, the tach isn't moving while your cranking it. Look and see if you get FICM sync while your cranking it.
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