fuel cooler/vgt cooler

fordman2121

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Ok so my truck hit a deer and took out most of the coolers. Ive been reading about deleteing the fuel cooler but cant get any good info on the vgt. Im just trying to clean some of that mess up while I have a reason to. I dont want to spend $200 on the cooler if I can just remove it. I dont tow and I rarly let the tank get under 1/4 so Im not concerned with the fuel just the actuator. What about just looping the heater lines to the actuator? what about leaving the cooling part unhooked all together? Since the electric pump dosnt kick on till the fuel is 160, it dosnt know how hot the VGT is anyway. Thoughts?
 

BFT

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I used the same hoses and made it work since it had the bends and looked factory. You are going to have to do something about the fuel return

IMG_1525.jpg

IMG_2257.jpg
 

fordman2121

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So it runs in series with the heater core? Cause thats what Im thinking of doing. I like how it still looks factory when done as well. Thanks
 

bigrpowr

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I used the same hoses and made it work since it had the bends and looked factory. You are going to have to do something about the fuel return

IMG_1525.jpg

IMG_2257.jpg

Looky familiar.
 

BFT

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Looky familiar.

It the no limit fuel cooler delete :pimp:

To the OP... The fuel cooler and actuator run seperate from the trucks cooling system via a small Bosch pump. I used the heater core line to make sure coolant was always flowing through the actuator.
I'm sure there are easier and lease expensive ways, but I chose to go with a machined coolant block from elite, all thanks to bigrpower.

You're main concern should be the fuel return. I have not yet attempted it on a truck with ford factory filters but I'm sure it can be done
 
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fordman2121

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It the no limit fuel cooler delete :pimp:

To the OP... The fuel cooler and actuator run seperate from the trucks cooling system via a small Bosch pump. I used the heater core line to make sure coolant was always flowing through the actuator.
I'm sure there are easier and lease expensive ways, but I chose to go with a machined coolant block from elite, all thanks to bigrpower.

You're main concern should be the fuel return. I have not yet attempted it on a truck with ford factory filters but I'm sure it can be done

I am familer with how the OEM system runs jsut double checking on that machined block from Elite. Thanks for the help. As for the return fuel I have a trans cooler Im going to use in line and mount under the truck on the frame rail.
 
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09stroker

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Are there any ill effects from not having the VGT Actuator cooled?
Been thinking about taking it all off while I have my cab up.
 

09stroker

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That's probly the best thing to do. I'm just trying to clean up the engine compartment the best I can.
 

blk350on20s

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Ive been running without a fuel temp sensor for over a year now and no coolers since memorial. Everythings still good on mine. Reason i say no temp sensor is because the elec pump wont kick on and coolant is stagnant. I am a fan of BFTs idea and reroute. Looks clean
 

pog

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I got no vgt, but I yanked the fuel cooler pump out, it was annoying as fack. I thought it would kill it self running dry but nope. Really opens the driver side of the engine bay up. Plus one less cooler in the front.
 

fordman2121

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My plan is to remove the cooler, cut the banjos off and put a flare fitting on to connect the two lines, also run them under the intake tubing. For the cooler Im going to unhook the line on the fuel module loop it into a frame cooler and then back to the fuel module. Thats the plan anyways. It will be a couple weeks before I can get back to it as its getting studded and Im busy. Ill post pics when done, it should clean it up alot and look good when done.
 

fordman2121

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Ok so I finally got back to working on my truck alittle this week. I was able to heat/bend the line from the T to the cooler and connect it to the fuel bowl. I tried to straighten it without heat and it just tries to kink.
Code:
 

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