Fuel Pump

Dieselboy.

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See I really like that . Basic, simple, and functional. Does not take a ton of fab time or money and you have a great functioning system.

Not sure where you arenfusing or what size but a 30 pre relay and 15 for each pump. I have not bothered to check the max amps on the stock fuel pump. Does the stock fuel pum on a stock system have its own dedicated fuse?

Thats pretty much what I did. I have a 30a protecting the main line, and a 20a on each pump
 

SDstroker

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Heres what I have right now. I dont think it would take alot to put in another pump.
IMG_2930.jpg


Dieselboy do you have the ability to shut the second pump off or are both running at the same time? Maybe I am over looking but did you put check valves in after the pump?

My stock pump keeps up for about 80% of what I do with the truck so it would be nice to shut one off.
 

Dieselboy.

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Heres what I have right now. I dont think it would take alot to put in another pump.
IMG_2930.jpg


Dieselboy do you have the ability to shut the second pump off or are both running at the same time? Maybe I am over looking but did you put check valves in after the pump?

My stock pump keeps up for about 80% of what I do with the truck so it would be nice to shut one off.

Realistically for the most pump your stocker will keep up, until WOT when things really start moving ;)

And no that ball valve is a shut off so I don't loose my prime when changing filters, I think I may add another one on the other side cause being a reg cab and where I mounted it its actually more fuel line from the filter to the motor than the filter to the tank lol

Add a ball valve. At least you have a "anti theft" device if you leave the truck somewhere for a while. I'd even throw in a killswitch in your wiring too
 

TARM

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May I make one suggestion to you from experience. When you get a chance change out those street 90s you have on there. They create unneeded restriction and turbulence that causes the entrained air to be freed up and leads to injector damage and at the least they will be louder. Get the AN or JIC that have the nice smooth curve. Its a bit more in cost and you need small bit more space but its trivial. It will be easy to put another sd pump in there with a few more fittings and hose. Should work very well.
 

V-Ref

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May I make one suggestion to you from experience. When you get a chance change out those street 90s you have on there. They create unneeded restriction and turbulence that causes the entrained air to be freed up and leads to injector damage and at the least they will be louder. Get the AN or JIC that have the nice smooth curve. Its a bit more in cost and you need small bit more space but its trivial. It will be easy to put another sd pump in there with a few more fittings and hose. Should work very well.

Not sharp shooting...looking to learn, as you said this was from experience.....if the lesson you learned you'd rather not post...request a PM....

How does a JIC or AN fitting "free up" less air? How does entrapped air that is "freed" by his straight 90s get past his 2 micron post pump filter? Wouldn't any aeration caused by these fittings have to be less than 2 micron nominal? Square me a way if I'm not grasping the basics of this correctly.

Thanks!
 

TARM

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I went off change of injector sound. I had tied a few spots with sharp 90s I had and there was a noticeable change in the idle sound. Had more rattle I guess you could call it. Not sure what can/can't get thru the filter as we are not talking huge air bubbles. But consider that your line from the tank with the stock lines is allowing air to infiltrate the line and you correct it with tank mod your injectors queit down. While not 2 mics that inside secondary filter media is 5 some under IIRC.

How its caused is from the turbulence of the repeated sharp restrictive turns. There is always a large % of entrained air in all diesel fuel. Turbulence frees it and this is what, as I understand it, causes the issues in the injector tip as its compressed.

I did not try pulling the line or putting a clear line on to see if I could visually confirm it. I am fairly confident that is whats going on in there as I can't think of what else from that change would result in a sound change at the injector.

I can tell you more exact specifics thru pm of the setup and may even have a few pics. There were double the 90s compared to the setup in the above pic. What I came away from it with though is the more turbulence the more air so anywhere you can prevent it the better. I have no idea if there is a point where one sharp 90 is fine but 2 cross a line. The way I approached it was sharp turns are not ideal so if you can eliminate them I think its best. As I understand it, no air isngood but its free air that is what creates the real damage.

I seem to recall some one else also having this issue with this as well. I just can not recall who it was.

I also think a big part of what the air dog /fass do is to try and free as much entrained air as possible so it can colect and flow out the top and back to the tank. This greatly reduces the amount of entrained air avaible to become free as it runs thru the various connectors etc. As opposed to removing the entrained air because in that specifc state it is a large issue. I could be wrong o this last part as its based on how I think it works from things I have read and seen. As well as being able to look at these systems personally and take them apart it seems to make sense.
 

FN74

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I have not bothered to check the max amps on the stock fuel pump. Does the stock fuel pum on a stock system have its own dedicated fuse?

Stock pump only draws about 6 amps on average@60 psi. And yes there is a dedicated 20 amp factory fuse for only the pump located in position 19 under the hood on 99-01, and 2.40 under the dash on 02-07 6.0. The Fuel pump wiring is 14 ga on 99-03 for sure and I think also up to 07. So Ford kind of did us a favor, although the OEM pump only uses about 6 amps, the wiring is in place is rated to 30amps.
 

Marty

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I had street 90s and run all jic adapters now. On every system I build. Noticed definite sound difference.
 

V-Ref

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SDstroker

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As soon as I get another pump I will take out the street 90s, install a ball valves before the 3405 and after the 3528. Also add check valves after pumps. Then add fuses for each pump also a relay/switch for second pump. Missing anything?
 

TARM

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What are the check valves for? From what I have checked and at least one other person I know of the sd pumps do not allow back flow so no chance of creation of a bf loop should one pump go down. In fact that exact senario was tested with no issue. Put a ball valve right before the water fuel sep between tank and it. That wil prevent loss of prime ona filter change. I really like the idea of a switch when running more than one pump. If one dies it can be turned off to prevent overload of the fuses relay etc. Keep you from having to get underneath and dissconect while out. If you really want to do it right add a psi guage between each pumps output and the final filter. It will allow you to know which pump is down at a glance. Of course you could just switch power between the two with the switch and watch your main psi gauge for a drop in psi. As I said there are many ways to configure a system to meet your personal pref beyound basic fuel supply.
 

SDstroker

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Ahh for some reason I thought I saw a diagram awhile back using check balls. Anywho I will report back when I am finished.
 

TARM

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You did . It was a very early one Marty had draw up but was only thinking about checks as at the time no one had checked to see if sd pumps would flow thru enough to creat a loop.
 

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