Gutless....7.3

[MoonShiner]

New filly in the barn '02 F350 4x4 flat bed dump, auto, with AC!

Gutted the EBPV, plugged the hole(s) and while it was off to remove the flapper,

I re-surfaced the outlet flange to a semi rough finish. (see pics)


Pressed out the hollow bushing and bored the other flush to the I.D.

Took a partial clean up cut through the I.D. too. Figured it wouldn't hurt?

Should there be a gasket?

It looked like it had been leaking for a long time. Lots of pitting.


I got some copper shim stock laying around the shop somewhere and was thinking about putting in a copper gasket.

Good idea or not necessay?

 

[neverkickn]

There isn't a gasket for that connection. As long as the down pipe flange isn't distorted and you maintained the same angle when you machined the flange then you should be ok to re assemble it.

 

[MoonShiner]

I pulled the down pipe off and removed the clamps at the manifolds, then when I loosened the turbo, the up pipes both fell out, so was the boost in the basement? no doubt.

The CEL lit up everytime I pushed the skinny pedal and AE told me that the boost was low and injector pressure was low P1211 the HP oil peaked at about 1600-1800. Will the PCM keep the pressure down if there's no boost? I,m gonna button it up and re-test before I tear into the HPOP.

The compressor wheel feels good with no end play but the turbine wheel has a little play.
186K miles, should I rebuild it while it's out?

 

[MoonShiner]

While I had the uppies off, I went ahead and tapped the manifold for the pyrometer probe. I stuck a socket head pipe plug in it for now.




New bellowed uppies from a favorite, up-standing vendor.

 

[dsberman94]

While I had the uppies off, I went ahead and tapped the manifold for the pyrometer probe. I stuck a socket head pipe plug in it for now.




New bellowed uppies from a favorite, up-standing vendor.

what vendor is that? i need to get some shortly.

 

[neverkickn]

I pulled the down pipe off and removed the clamps at the manifolds, then when I loosened the turbo, the up pipes both fell out, so was the boost in the basement? no doubt.

The CEL lit up everytime I pushed the skinny pedal and AE told me that the boost was low and injector pressure was low P1211 the HP oil peaked at about 1600-1800. Will the PCM keep the pressure down if there's no boost? I,m gonna button it up and re-test before I tear into the HPOP.

The compressor wheel feels good with no end play but the turbine wheel has a little play.
186K miles, should I rebuild it while it's out?

Low boost won't give you the 1211 code. You only get that when there is a deficit between the pressure the truck wants and what it can actually make. You most likely have a hpo leak or a bad pump.

On the charger, some radial play is ok, so long as there is no housing contact. You definitely don't want axial play. It can't hurt to rebuild it, but if it passes the wiggle test then I would run it as is.

 

[dsberman94]

On the charger, some radial play is ok, so long as there is no housing contact. You definitely don't want axial play. It can't hurt to rebuild it, but if it passes the wiggle test then I would run it as is.

he is correct. youtube for some videos of bad radial play so you can see what it looks like. my old turbo had about 1/4 inch of axial play. i was told it was normal.:wtf: still sitting in my shed waiting for me to buy a rebuild kit. as said it can't hurt to rebuild it. might save you from having to take it out again later.

 

[MoonShiner]

Low boost won't give you the 1211 code. You only get that when there is a deficit between the pressure the truck wants and what it can actually make. You most likely have a hpo leak or a bad pump.

On the charger, some radial play is ok, so long as there is no housing contact. You definitely don't want axial play. It can't hurt to rebuild it, but if it passes the wiggle test then I would run it as is.

Got it:thumbsup: Really didn't notice any issues with the turbo but it was leaking really bad, and I only had the truck for a week.
Should get time this weekend to get it re-assembled.


This truck is gonna be my wood hauler, and all I really want is for it to run/pull like I know it should, and I'm ready to get it back to work.
Thanks for the advise!

 

[neverkickn]

It wasn't leaking out the down pipe was it?

 

[MoonShiner]

what vendor is that? i need to get some shortly.

I went the cheaper route with DieselSite.....Bob I believe? The welds and such look pretty good and the machining on the manifold is a lot smoother than a lot of Chinese stuff I've seen, should find out in a day or two. Top priority is to machine some parts to sell to fund this project!

he is correct. youtube for some videos of bad radial play so you can see what it looks like. my old turbo had about 1/4 inch of axial play. i was told it was normal.:wtf: still sitting in my shed waiting for me to buy a rebuild kit. as said it can't hurt to rebuild it. might save you from having to take it out again later.

Yea, taking it out just ain't my idea of fun.....

 

[MoonShiner]

It wasn't leaking out the down pipe was it?

The outlet flange was really pitted, so I assume that's a sign of leaking for an extended period? That's why I decided to face it off. From looking at pictures of new ones, the machining looks smooth.

I been machining for 40 years so I'm kinda anal about finishing metal the correct way.

 

[neverkickn]

I was assuming you meant it was leaking oil. Is that the case or was it just leaking drive pressure from the up pipes and exhaust from the outlet flange.

 

[MoonShiner]

I was assuming you meant it was leaking oil. Is that the case or was it just leaking drive pressure from the up pipes and exhaust from the outlet flange.

Exactly, exhaust leak(s). The EBPV was leaking lots of oil down the back of the motor. So replacing the uppies and gutting the EBPV is the initial troubleshoot and repair. New pedestal o-rings of course.

 

[MoonShiner]

I bought this truck last Tuesday. On wednesday, we loaded my Bobcat on the trailer and went to get a load of logs for firewood. Loaded the truck (11ft bed) and the 19ft trailer with about 8500 lbs total. Despite the boost leaks, it still pulled fairly well but I could tell it needed some help

When I went to look at this truck I hooked the AE and ran all the onboard tests. It passed them but the CEL was coming on and it did have the boost and injector pressure stored codes. When I get it running, I'm gonna re-test and do some live data tests. The way my luck runs, I will be doin' the HPOP next. Oh well, it's only money.

 

[MoonShiner]

OK....P!.....I!...... T!....... A!
but the bellowed up-pipes are on, All systems restored minus the ebpv.
Fit was great but the fitt-ing(de dash be silent) was a pain.

I had a pack of small o-rings that stretched over the bolts at the baby's butt to hold them and the gasket in place to fit the flanges up to the manifold then they just kinda fit right on down in to the hole through the flange. They'll burn out.

If you don't have a trained orangutan handy, that worked for me.

Sorry, no pics of this...I was greasy as a pig where that %#$@^* ebpv leaked all over didn't want to handle my camera. I'll try to get a picture of the o-ring stretched over a manifold fastener.

Kudos to Bob at Dieselsite....thanks for a good product at a decent price. I need some more "stuff"

All else went back on in a jiffy and no leaks, much quieter.:thumbsup:

On edit: I did break that little red hose that goes to the wastegate actuator. The fitting about the middle that splits off, broke off. Is it necessary?

 

[dsberman94]

On edit: I did break that little red hose that goes to the wastegate actuator. The fitting about the middle that splits off, broke off. Is it necessary?

yea you will want to cap that with some rtv and a screw or something like that. you could even replace it. i think its about $13 for all those hoses red and green. actually rereading you will want to replace those hoses

 

[HKusp]

Yeah, they do allow access of unfiltered air to the intake so small particles of dirt and debris can get into your turbo if you leave them open. A lot of people take that red line off and plug it to stop the wastegate from dumping pressure. I am not a huge fan of that anyway. I would do what dsberman says and replace them.

 

[MoonShiner]

yea you will want to cap that with some rtv and a screw or something like that. you could even replace it. i think its about $13 for all those hoses red and green. actually rereading you will want to replace those hoses

Fixed! $25.00 from local Ford dealer. Now on to the HPOP:fordoval:

 

[MoonShiner]

Finally got time to R&R the HPOP....got a Bosch from Diesel O-rings.com along with a new IPR and fuel bowl re-seal kit. Took 3 dam hours to get it apart and back together.
ICP is now 2800-2900 at WOT with 38%-41% IPR duty cycle. Starts and runs MUCH better, and CEL is gone!
Now, on to ball joints on the '99 :doh: