Guys I need help with led's and fast flash.

Highroller54 · Jul 15, 2015

I am not sure why but my search skills are not working for this. I want to put led bulbs in the tail lights and then maybe the front signals. I do not want resistors unless there is a plug and play version, I won't cut my factory wiring up. I phoned ford and asked about a bcm reprogram and they said no (I "think" they are wrong)
What's my best option? Thanks!! :ford:
Chad

Highroller54 · Jul 15, 2015

Maybe I should list what my truck is lol 2009 f350.

Spatel23 · Jul 15, 2015

You don't really have to "cut" to put resistors in.
You can always use wire taps, although not ideal I agree.

PABowhunter · Jul 15, 2015

Can't you just put a new flasher in that doesn't bllink fast. Not sure if the newer trucks are the same, but that's what I did for my 01. Got a flasher from napa designed for led's. It blinks constant no matter what. I have LEDs all the way around.

JMart · Jul 15, 2015

PABowhunter said:
Can't you just put a new flasher in that doesn't bllink fast. Not sure if the newer trucks are the same, but that's what I did for my 01. Got a flasher from napa designed for led's. It blinks constant no matter what. I have LEDs all the way around.

This

Thats what I did when I put in my switchbacks.

Emery19 · Jul 16, 2015

iirc 08+ doesnt use those anymore, which is why i havent done my truck yet. from what i've read you need to wire resistors in because the flashing is controlled by the bcm. and theres no relay/flasher to replace. i hav eno idea how to wire resistors which is why it hasn't been done yet. i though i could do the relay and be done but it wont wokr on anything newer then 08

Dietert13 · Jul 16, 2015

I have a 2012 F350 with full LEDs all around with no resistor, capacitor, or different flasher. They all work normally and have from day 1. I bought resistors to wire in just incase but ended up not needing them. Ended up sticking them in the GF's Yukon.

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TXGLASSMAN · Jul 16, 2015

I put resistors in my 11' for my switchbacks and I think it made things worse honestly. Haven't had the time or want to go messing with it but I will be soon. I honestly think it's the resistor

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Highroller54 · Jul 18, 2015

I thought this was going to be easy lol, do most people just run resistors? I tried mine and it definitely flashed fast.

Jacob @ No Limit · Aug 10, 2015

Anyone with ids can fix this for you, you can shut the fast blink off. Might take a whole 2 minutes to do also.

drunk on diesel · Aug 10, 2015

I liked the fast blink on my service truck. I feel like people actually notice a fast blink quicker/more often than a slow blink

Wildman · Aug 15, 2015

White15 said:
Anyone with ids can fix this for you, you can shut the fast blink off. Might take a whole 2 minutes to do also.

IDS Programmable Parameter change won't work. Even if it does, it will be temporary, and it will end up taking out the Smart Junction Box (SJB).

The only correct way to install LEDs, or any non-factory lights is to power them off the trailer tow relays. Using this method, the SJB sees the correct resistance from the control side of the relay, which prevents it from setting DTCs, blinking fast, and ultimately, module failure.

Powerstroke Man 6.4 · Aug 16, 2015

Wildman said:
IDS Programmable Parameter change won't work. Even if it does, it will be temporary, and it will end up taking out the Smart Junction Box (SJB).

The only correct way to install LEDs, or any non-factory lights is to power them off the trailer tow relays. Using this method, the SJB sees the correct resistance from the control side of the relay, which prevents it from setting DTCs, blinking fast, and ultimately, module failure.

If you don't mind me asking, how would you do this?

drunk on diesel · Aug 16, 2015

what exactly will take out the SJB now?

because I'll tell you that running LED's won't... I had LED rear tails on my service truck complete with fast blink for 100k+

Wildman · Aug 16, 2015

drunk on diesel said:
what exactly will take out the SJB now?

because I'll tell you that running LED's won't... I had LED rear tails on my service truck complete with fast blink for 100k+

Then you simply got lucky. That's not something to brag about.

The SJB uses Field Effect Transistors (FET) to provide output to the turn signals, headlamps, parking lamps, etc. These transistors are capable of measuring current flow, which allows the module logic to determine when there is a short to ground, short to voltage, or open.

When you install LEDs into the SJB's output driver with no relay, the module determines that the bulb is out based on the low current draw. This activates the lamp outage mode and sets a DTC. The SJB has a specific fault tolerance for each DTC. After the DTC sets a predetermined number of times, the SJB will set DTC B1342 and all functions will be disabled, requiring module replacement.

Wildman · Aug 16, 2015

Powerstroke Man 6.4 said:
If you don't mind me asking, how would you do this?

Instead of powering the LEDs using the circuits from the SJB, you power the lamps using the trailer tow circuits that go to your 4/7 pin trailer tow connector. These are powered by a relay, therefore you will not damage the SJB and the lamps will blink at the proper rate.

Highroller54 · Aug 16, 2015

You will take the sjb out if you add more lights (more load) to the factory tail lights then what's it's designed for. Like a flat deck or a bunch of extra junk around. You need to wire that stuff into the trailer light circuit.
Going from stock tail lights to led tail lights will not burn out the sjb as they draw less power not more. The reason they flash fast is because there is such little load the sjb thinks your bulb is burn out and it's letting the driver know.

Now with that said ford tells me that on my 2009 f350 they cannot program that out, only the newer trucks. I'm not sure if they are wrong or not but that's what my dealer tells me

Highroller54 · Aug 16, 2015

Well^^^^
I could be wrong lol. Sounds like you know better then I, I wrote that before I seen your post. Lol

Highroller54 · Aug 16, 2015

But then again ford has a bulliten out saying to turn that off to run led's that I have read??

Wildman · Aug 17, 2015

Highroller54 said:
You will take the sjb out if you add more lights (more load) to the factory tail lights then what's it's designed for. Like a flat deck or a bunch of extra junk around. You need to wire that stuff into the trailer light circuit.
Going from stock tail lights to led tail lights will not burn out the sjb as they draw less power not more. The reason they flash fast is because there is such little load the sjb thinks your bulb is burn out and it's letting the driver know.

Now with that said ford tells me that on my 2009 f350 they cannot program that out, only the newer trucks. I'm not sure if they are wrong or not but that's what my dealer tells me

It has nothing to do with load, it's all in the strategy within the SJB calibration. The SJB uses FETs, they flag faults based on the variance from the factory amperage draw, regardless of whether its lower or higher.

The newer trucks (2011+) are even more susceptible to damage caused by non-factory lighting. They use a Body Control Module (BCM) instead of a Smart Junction Box (SJB), which is even more sensitive to non-factory amperage draw.

The SJB re-flash that was released for 08-10 F-Super Dutys was designed to reduce the sensitivity of the SJB to variances in amperage draw, but often times it will still not allow LEDs to be used without setting a fault.