H-11s vs ARP's

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jdgleason

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This is right on - however I went with the arps as I couldnt find a negative word about them and the price is very fair.
Agreed! H-11s are overkill (In theory, I have no facts I guess...) for the majority of people and ARPs are not a bad stud at all. I think knowing that the one stud is stronger is peace of mind for a lot of people.
Are H-11's outselling ARP's? That doesn't seem realistic even though the ARP's haven't been out as long.
Yes sir. I see more H-11s leave our shop than ARPs.
 

Worstenemy453

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I was told by some one, who i cant remember. That ARP's will stretch and H-11's will straight up snap. I hold no dog in this fight as i just use ARP's because we dont have drag trucks. Id just be interested in what someone has to say about what i was told.

Also, proly doesnt matter but a lot of the Dodge guys use 625's
 

Craig@MFI

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Are you implying that the tensile strength of arps is greater than h-11s?

We all heard that your arps are holding and mikes didnt this time, but we still havent seen any data to back up the statement that arp>h-11. The only factual hard data we have is tensile strength... that can be proven.

You absolutely arent going to tell me that every motor and every set up is created equal... you know better. I am interested in seeing what comes of this as far as data and facts to back it up.

well cabs coming back off in th next few hours so you guys will have all the proof you want the h-11s are getting thrown in the trash can...went to drive the truck today and had no heat and oil mixing with the coolant
 

jdgleason

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I was told by some one, who i cant remember. That ARP's will stretch and H-11's will straight up snap. I hold no dog in this fight as i just use ARP's because we dont have drag trucks. Id just be interested in what someone has to say about what i was told.

Also, proly doesnt matter but a lot of the Dodge guys use 625's

For the most part thats true. H-11s should stretch and deflect a little as well. Because of the process of making the stud, it is a little more brittle than an ARP is. The ARP would continue to stretch due to its lesser integrity, and the H-11 would snap.

Im sure there is a point where the ARP would snap, but it will stretch further than the H-11. Either way, no H-11 should snap unless it has been WAY over torqued.
 

jdgleason

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well cabs coming back off in th next few hours so you guys will have all the proof you want the h-11s are getting thrown in the trash can...went to drive the truck today and had no heat and oil mixing with the coolant

Cool. Interested to see what you find.

On a sidenote what gaskets do you guys use Craig?
 

cfdeng7

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For the most part thats true. H-11s should stretch and deflect a little as well. Because of the process of making the stud, it is a little more brittle than an ARP is. The ARP would continue to stretch due to its lesser integrity, and the H-11 would snap.

Im sure there is a point where the ARP would snap, but it will stretch further than the H-11. Either way, no H-11 should snap unless it has been WAY over torqued.

I have a feeling arps and h-11s will rip the threads out of the block before either of them snap.
 

Danbonzo

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well cabs coming back off in th next few hours so you guys will have all the proof you want the h-11s are getting thrown in the trash can...went to drive the truck today and had no heat and oil mixing with the coolant

Which trash can, I'll be by later to pick them out.
 

InnovativeDiesel

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I think they'll both do the trick. The type of lube you use, torque value, etc. will all come into play. Also, for a daily driver truck, you need to think about corrosion. H11's will weaken and accelerate corrosion much quicker than ARP2000. The properties are different.

Like mentioned before, it's tough to prove out. You just need to do some research and decide which works best for you.
 

SEABEE08FX4

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What's the problem with the h-11s? Aren't they supposed to be higher strength than the ARP?


They're two different kinds of ARP studs, 425 ( cheaper ones ) and 625 ( expensive ones ). This would be more of a comparison between the H-11 and the 625 ARP's.
 

jdgleason

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I have a feeling arps and h-11s will rip the threads out of the block before either of them snap.

You are probably right. ARPs should match the tensile strength of the block.... Other studs on the market may or may not exceed that. Lol
 

SEABEE08FX4

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Isn't h11 tensile 240000 and arp is 220000... So there close... Also doesn't the fact that arb lube is PROVEN to torque fasteners tighter and more consistance then oil... That's why you dont back arps off like h11st....also the arps are torqued at a WAY higher value which has to play a key role ..

Edit.. just did some research on fastner preload and stretch.. the all point to proper stretch and preload is key.... Each time you use a fasteners it should be .005" longer then before for that diameter... Also reading about determining proper stretch thereafter a formula and judging by that formula the h11s need to be torques at a higher value then arps to be seated right.. very interesting stuff out there if you Google proper fasteners stretch and preload..

The standard ARP's (425's) are 220000 but the ARP 625's are 260000 so the H-11's fall between the two, 625's are over kill for most guys on the street. I'd say if your not over 800 hp and 65 psi boost then you shouldn't need the 625's.
 

strokingkid1392

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ive just been reading and learning but why dont u guys try to run similar set-ups, jd and craig or mikes, see which ones last longer. h11's or arp's.
 

extreme3807

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I went with the ARP 425's (cheap ones) because I only heard good things about them. I beat the hell out of my truck with over 3000 miles, and around 68 psi and BP with zero issues thus far, just my 02 cents!

Sent from my DROID Pro
 

Danbonzo

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$300 and there yours

LOL, I'm already running a set in my 6.4 with zero issues. But thanks anyway.
Do you think the heads could be cracked on your's? Your scenario seems more catastrophic than apple to apple head stud spec debate.
 

Wayne

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:puke: this kind of crap, spreading false information is rediculous.
well cabs coming back off in th next few hours so you guys will have all the proof you want the h-11s are getting thrown in the trash can...went to drive the truck today and had no heat and oil mixing with the coolant
H-11 failure=INSTALLER ERROR 99% of the time. the other 1% is nitrous explosions, etc. by doing something else well beyond their intended purpose. It's been proven time, and time again that H-11 studs are stronger than ARP.

Aside from needing to start with a properly machined head to block surface, in the seasoning process of the studs, all studs must be tightened to the first level using the factory torque sequence, then individually loosened, and re-tightened in that sequence until the seasoning steps have taken place. Once seasoning is done, then continue to follow torque sequence taking the studs level by level to the final torque spec.

If while torquing the studs, you loosen all of them at the same time between sequences of re-tightening, you might as well give your tools to someone who can use them properly, and get a job selling fries at McDonald's after you apologize to the owner of the vehicle for wasting their gaskets.
 
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