Help again guys...

[Big Calo]

Ok, got another issue with another truck.

1999 late, CCSB, auto, 2WD

Friday night, batteries died, and as a result took out the alternator. Didn't discover the alternator until Monday morning. Drove the truck Saturday no issues, didn't drive Sunday, batteries completely dead Monday am. Hooked my other truck up to it, jumped it off, and let it charge some, then went on to work. Had to unload my trailer, and left the truck idling, and it died, batteries dead. Put a charger on it for a couple hours, and it started and idled fine, but I turned it off, not wanting to burn up the alternator, and let it trickle charge all night. Come in this morning, fire it up, and it romps real bad, and about 4 of the injectors are clacking real loud. Rev it a little, and then it smooths out.

I did drive the truck home after work, SES light stays on all the time, real quiet not near normal 7.3 idle, has a miss, and will blow smoke like crazy on high chip setting, just trying to pull itself up a hill. Tonight I tried to crank it for the video, and it would just click. Did that twice before it cranked over. Don't know where this came from. Ran perfect Saturday after I put the batteries in Friday night, then Monday nothing. Also if I have it in gear, and slip it into park or neutral, it will rev up to around 1000, then slowly come back down.

Tying to get a video to upload to YouTube.


Could I have taken out a UVCH? Maybe it running until the batteries died damaged the IPR? Sounds really like a HPO issue?

Might be able to meet my cousin and put AE on it tomorrow.

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

So did the alternator get replaced as well? I didn't see it mentioned so I figure I should ask.

What kind of voltage are you seeing when all of these problems are happening?

Getting that code read should help diagnose as well.

 

[fbilly420]

Sounds like something hpo related with the romp and smoke.

Codes will help.

 

[91turbogsx]

Check the codes. First thing I would do.

 

[Big Calo]

Won't even crank over now. When I try to start it, there is a click in the dash, but that's it. Could bad battery cables cause this? Maybe just bad connection? I cleaned the terminals before I put the batteries on.

If I can get it started I'll meet my cousin tonight to put AE on it.

 

[fbilly420]

check the connection on the starter too.

 

[Arisley]

So, right now, you have put new batteries and a new alternator on it?

If so, check that big single wire connection at the alternator. Don't just look at it, wiggle it around. Sometimes, the connector will break, and the factory heat shrink will continue to hold it in place, making you think you have a good connection.

If these trucks lose power, they will act up in all kinds of strange ways.

Example: I had a weak alternator once. Truck would run perfectly fine until I turned the headlights on. Once I turned on the lights, it would slowly (over a mile or so) start to run like crap and smoke like a freight train. If I let it idle it would romp like crazy. Alternator checked out fine on a bench. Put it back on the truck, with the lights out, it checked good, turn on the lights and it started crapping out.

 

[Big Calo]

Thanks guys, I will try this stuff out after work.

Andy, new batteries, it was a alternator I had that came off of a running truck, when I pulled the motor. I will try to borrow a voltmeter to see what it is putting out.

 

[lincolnlocker]

voltage is usually the quickest and easiest to rule out... like andy said, these things can be a real pain in the ass when its not right.. you can get a cheepy volt meter for less then ten bucks... i tell everyone with a 7.3 to check that first and make sure its consistent and not jumping around... 14.3v is ideal and anything below 14v, i have seen issues, but should never be below 13.8v and never over 14.5....

 

[bad12jr]

Check grounds on the block really well. That is what caused a charging problem I had a while back.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

voltage is usually the quickest and easiest to rule out... like andy said, these things can be a real pain in the ass when its not right.. you can get a cheepy volt meter for less then ten bucks... i tell everyone with a 7.3 to check that first and make sure its consistent and not jumping around... 14.3v is ideal and anything below 14v, i have seen issues, but should never be below 13.8v and never over 14.5....

just to add:
I believe the injectors need to see at the very least 10.5. while cranking before they will even fire. low volts will cause skipping sputtering and smoke as well..

 

[TyCorr]

Exactly Ron! Theres not.enough voltage for it to run correctly. Mine did.all the same **** when the batteries and alternator crapped out. Its like they default to safe tables.that allow you to "get home". My lincoln ls did the same thing too when the battery crapped three months ago. Theres no acceleration or power because they are in od at 35mph when things get drained that far. The car.sounded like it.was misfiring but the message center said "maximum speed 45mph". Id bet your.truck.issues are.completely normal at least for a bone.dead truck.that is.shutting down circuits as it.dies.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Check grounds on the block really well. That is what caused a charging problem I had a while back.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

ground connections are very important also....

just to add:
I believe the injectors need to see at the very least 10.5. while cranking before they will even fire. low volts will cause skipping sputtering and smoke as well..

yes! this too.

live life full throttle

 

[Arisley]

If you don't have a multimeter in your tool box, you need one there.
You can pick one up at Home Depot for about 35 bucks.

 

[lincolnlocker]

this is a deal right here! does just about all you need for $10.00...http://www.amazon.com/Digital-VOLT-...TF8&qid=1369323216&sr=8-1&keywords=volt+meter

this one is $9 shipped http://www.amazon.com/Digital-MULTI...F8&qid=1369323590&sr=1-16&keywords=volt+meter

 

[Big Calo]

Ok, did a little testing. I unhooked battery cables all night and checked the batteries this afternoon. Read about 12.6 volts. Hooked them up, and the read the same. Did notice that there was spark when I reconnected the battery cables, not major, but noticable. Also the positive terminals are noticably darker than than the negative. Started the truck, got a even 14 volts, and it would hold pretty steady there. Alternator heated up pretty quick, but I'm not sure what normal would be. Took readings from the alternator terminal as well, and got the same. Killed the truck, checked again, 12.6, let it set for nearly an hour with the cables hooked up. Checked again, still 12.6. Nothing seems to be pulling the batteries down real quick anyway.

Was nearly dark by the time I got home from work, so I didn't get a chance to explore it very much, just get the readings. Hopefully tommorow I can start running down the cables. Just seems to me that its where it all started from. I'll keep y'all posted.

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

Take the alternator down to get bench tested. You can only do so much with a handheld volt meter. You cannot test to see if the diodes or voltage regulator have failed with that unit. The diodes are like a one way valve. They let power out but not back in.

 

[Diezel Dawg]

Also, check to make sure your battery light on the dash is the same brightness as all other dash in gauge cluster. If it is, change that bulb out. This happened to me. It completes the circuit for the alternator to charge

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[Big Calo]

Aaaaaarrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhh!!!!!

Nothing new to report other than my 96 F250, RCLB, 2WD, auto. Going down the road, starts cutting out and sputtering until it dies. Will not immediately restart. I can wait 4-5 minutes, it will immediately fire up and idle, and I might cant drive 4-5 miles before it starts cutting out and sputtering again. One time after I started it, I had the voltmeter on it when it started to die. Held a solid 13.8v until it died.

Local Napa doesn't have a bench tester, so I've go somewhere else. Got a friend coming by tomorrow with a scanner so I'll see what we find out. Rain now so no working on them for now.

3 trucks all broke down. Guess I could be dead. Lol!

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

you need to get the codes but that almost sounds like a bad CPS...