bluedge8
Active member
watch your hpop pressure when cranking, mine will go all the way to 3300# when she cranks a long time and the gp's aren't working.
HELP ME OUT
- Thread starter Milford
- Start date
Milford
New member
Icp is only 100 or so bit it spiked to about 5-600 and sputtered then back down to 100.
bluedge8
Active member
you just found your problem, you need 500 minimum for your inj's to fire. Keep topping off hpop res, and verify you have enough oil in the truck in general. also make sure you don't have a hpop oil leak, even minor leaks and it will never build enough pressure
Milford
New member
The HPOP res is full and is not going down at all. I don't see any leaks anywhere so that's not the problem. The tach is turning about 300 RPM or so, I did not check that with my scan gauge.
I did take off the ICP sensor and it had pressure behind it, I took off the EBP sensor and that was bone dry, not sure if it is suppose to have oil flowing behind it? It was caked up with what looked to be soot almost. What is the easiest way to get to the IPR? Take off the fuel bowl and have at it? Also what is the volts needed for the IDM to fire the injectors? IIRC its like right about 10V.
I am freakin lost with this truck because my buddy who I told not to touch the thing till I got to look at it decided to start putting everything together on it so I have no idea! I was figuring on checking all these sensors and everything while the turbo and fuel bowl were already out but by the time I got there they were in. This was his first diesel he worked on too so that is what I am nervous about.... I am almost to the point where I am just going to start tearing this thing down tomorrow and starting from where it was.
To add to everything this truck was bought site un seen from a guy in FL who had it sitting for the past 2 years. I was nervous about the wiring being chewed up by some animals but from everything that I have seen it is all in tact and good. The problem that the previous owner "forgot" to point out to us before the buy is that the driverside valve cover was off the whole time.... The injectors pass a buzz test and the glow plugs are all new and the GPR is working fine. Got the truck cheap and the body is super clean which is why we bought this truck. Guy said it needed a new turbo which he already had and gave to us with the buy and the A/C compressor had to go back on along with the radiator. He took the radiator out initially because he thought he blew the motor but thank god he didn't start screwing with anything else. So any suggestions would be wonderful and much appreciated!
I did take off the ICP sensor and it had pressure behind it, I took off the EBP sensor and that was bone dry, not sure if it is suppose to have oil flowing behind it? It was caked up with what looked to be soot almost. What is the easiest way to get to the IPR? Take off the fuel bowl and have at it? Also what is the volts needed for the IDM to fire the injectors? IIRC its like right about 10V.
I am freakin lost with this truck because my buddy who I told not to touch the thing till I got to look at it decided to start putting everything together on it so I have no idea! I was figuring on checking all these sensors and everything while the turbo and fuel bowl were already out but by the time I got there they were in. This was his first diesel he worked on too so that is what I am nervous about.... I am almost to the point where I am just going to start tearing this thing down tomorrow and starting from where it was.
To add to everything this truck was bought site un seen from a guy in FL who had it sitting for the past 2 years. I was nervous about the wiring being chewed up by some animals but from everything that I have seen it is all in tact and good. The problem that the previous owner "forgot" to point out to us before the buy is that the driverside valve cover was off the whole time.... The injectors pass a buzz test and the glow plugs are all new and the GPR is working fine. Got the truck cheap and the body is super clean which is why we bought this truck. Guy said it needed a new turbo which he already had and gave to us with the buy and the A/C compressor had to go back on along with the radiator. He took the radiator out initially because he thought he blew the motor but thank god he didn't start screwing with anything else. So any suggestions would be wonderful and much appreciated!
bluedge8
Active member
first things first, the idm delivers 110 VOLTS, NOT 10V!, don't go playing around with that wiring when cranking, it will knock you on your ass! Second, I don't care if the hpop res isn't going down, you need 500 psi for the computer to start firing inj's, period. You need to look over that system before you do anything else. If your hpop lines have the "quick disconnects" then start there and make sure they are clicked in right, I didn't have one clicked in on one of my trucks and it would not fire.
Milford
New member
for the volts to the IDM I meant the supply from the batteries to the IDM needing above a certain voltage while cranking.
Milford
New member
Changed out the IPR and let the thing sit on the charger for a day and changed out some of the small rubber fuel lines down in the valley while I had the fuel bowl loose. I went to start it and had 3900+/- ICP PSI. It was blowing a bunch of white smoke and sounded like it was just working the air out of the system which I figured it would do. After about 5-6 times of cranking it was on the verge of starting and then I lost the ICP PSI back down to 100-350 range. The oil that this thing had in it was super nasty! I checked the HPOP res and the nasty oil was getting a little better in it but was still pretty bad. I figured the fresh oil from the pan would have worked its way up to the HPOP by then but I guess I am wrong. Should I try to syphon out the old oil in the HPOP res and clean the IPR? Or should I just clean out the IPR and crank some more?
Just to clarify, this oil is so bad that once this thing gets running and warms up the oil is being changed again. It is that bad from sitting for 2 years.
Just to clarify, this oil is so bad that once this thing gets running and warms up the oil is being changed again. It is that bad from sitting for 2 years.
bluedge8
Active member
That sounds good, I would probably drain the pan again before you even try to crank it- some diesel oil is pretty cheap compared to a used motor. I think if you keep batt's charged, watch icp, and make sure you don't have any major fuel leaks you'll get it running soon.
Ad8 PRODIGY
New member
To siphon it out, a windex bottle squirter pulled out of the bottle and dropping the tube in the HPOP Res might work if its not too sludgy
Milford
New member
So it started and was not happy. It is pissing some oil/fuel mix out the tailpipe now. LOL this truck is a nightmare. I was thinking I can now pull the GPs and turn the motor over by hand to see what cylinder this is coming from and go from there. Injector cup or o rings now...
SPEEDDEMON31176
New member
Pull the valve covers and watch the spouts to see which injectors may have leaks.
Milford
New member
I was thinking more along the copper crush ring being bad along with o rings on multiple injectors. Its just pissing out that fuel oil mixture. Comes out the exhaust and out of the ebpv housing into the valley. What a mess!
bluedge8
Active member
running is a start, does it re start?
Milford
New member
It did 1 time and not it won't. ICP PSI is good though. 3900 while cranking and that's consistently. Not its just pouring nastiness out of the tailpipe and EBPV.
bluedge8
Active member
I do not know how to check for inj cup leaks, inj orings etc. So hopefully someone chimes in on that stuff. Have the inj's been out while it sat?, if so maybe they cut o rings?
Milford
New member
They have been in it the whole time.
TERRCO
Member
How many miles on this engine?Pull the injectors and send em off to get checked/ rebuilt by one of the sponsors here. Change all the injector cups.
Milford
New member
Any tips on getting a copper crush ring out of the cup? Its In there and in there good.
Milford
New member
Why fix the cups if there not broken? 300k
TERRCO
Member
With 300,000 they have to be worn, especially if the orings have been leaking long. Cracks are hard to see sometimes. If you remove the injectors it's not that hard to change the cups with the right tool. How often you gonna have the valve covers off and injectors out. Are you planning on keeping this truck or you gonna sell it? Do you wanna spend money to fix it?
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