Help! Truck won't wont run right!

[Lamont_24]

It started fine today and it was running for about 5 minutes and it's about 26 degrees out. I back out of my parking spot at my dorm and then start driving and I see the check engine light come on then it started running like **** and so I pulled into a parking spot and it died. And I recorded trying to start it back up. I had my foot to the floor the whole time unless it revved up and I let off a little bit. I just started school so I don't know anyone with a good scanner so I went to autozone but there scanners can't look up history since the check engine light went away. So I'm working on finding a quality scanner at school I can use

 

[Lamont_24]

http://youtu.be/wcz1dAvaELU here is a video of what it was doing

 

[POWER-STRUCK]

can you atleast pull the valve covers and get an ohm meter? this will narrow it down a bit, and you can call me and i'll talk you thru it

 

[Lamont_24]

Thanks, I might be able to do that that Thursday if the code I got off of it doesn't mean anything but the code I got was ID: $10 engine controller
Code number: Sae1850

 

[POWER-STRUCK]

by the video it seems to be a misfire, and with the valve covers off you will be able to narrow down to which cylinder by watching the oil returns, also will be able to inspect under v/c wiring harness, then you can take some measurements on the idm with the ohm meter.

 

[Lamont_24]

Okay, on Thursday when I'm able to take them off I can give you a shout. But where are the oil returns located? And the IDM should be good because it is new as of about 3 weeks ago. About the code, do you know what it means?

 

[POWER-STRUCK]

no prob i'll help ya out! sae1850 is the network protocol

 

[neverkickn]

That sounds like a whole bank dropping. You can have someone sit in the cab and keep it running while you unplug each bank independently. I bet that one will kill the truck and the other will make no difference. Most likely a uvch unplugged or dammaged, but it could be an idm or harness issue too.

 

[Lamont_24]

That sounds like a whole bank dropping. You can have someone sit in the cab and keep it running while you unplug each bank independently. I bet that one will kill the truck and the other will make no difference. Most likely a uvch unplugged or dammaged, but it could be an idm or harness issue too.

Sorry, but what does bank mean? And uvch? Sorry again haha

 

[Lamont_24]

Never mind about the uvch, under valve cover harness. Got it! But still don't understand the bank

 

[neverkickn]

Bank as in row of cylinders. Driver side bank and passenger side bank. Unplug the engine harness where it connects to the valve cover gasket. Dont need to pull anything apart to do this and if you are in fact dropping one whole bank it will help you determine which one it is without any tools other than your hand and someone to keep their foot on the pedal. I am assuming that you have to throttle it to keep it running.

 

[Lamont_24]

Yeah it needs throttle to keep running. Aren't there two connectors per valve cover? If I'm not mistaken

 

[neverkickn]

Sorry, yes on yours there is. Just unplug them one at a time and each bank independently.

 

[Lamont_24]

Okay I'll give that a shot as soon as possible. Thanks for the quick help guys and hopefully this will help get closer to the problem

 

[Lamont_24]

I've got two more questions, why would it do it for a about a minute then be just fine after that? A wire shorting out or just a connector slightly unplugged? I checked the outside wiring to the valve covers and they looked in good condition and were plugged in tight. Also, if it doesn't do it again when I want to try and unplug it can I unplug one of the connectors and see if it acts like it did before? Cause it's an intermittent problem that started about three days ago and this is only the second time it's done it to me

 

[neverkickn]

Uvch problems can often be intermittent. An idm problem will rarely be intermittent but it is possible. Unfortunately in order to diagnose the problem without a scan tool it has to be acting up at the time. If you have a scan tool you can just do a buzz test and get the codes out of the idm. Those codes will help you narrow your focus. Without them you just have to wait till the truck acts up again and start unplugging and ohming wiring harnesses.

 

[Lamont_24]

Well I put a snap on, on it and it came up with zero codes on it. I had cleared them about three weeks ago when I stuck the new IDM in. (I stuck a new one in because the old one was a manual computer and my truck is an auto)

 

[Lamont_24]

How much resistance do you need to see?

 

[neverkickn]

If your check engine light came on you should have codes stored. I would expect to see the code that tells you you have idm codes stored. You have to perform a koeo injector buzz test with the scan tool in order to retrieve the idm codes.

 

[Lamont_24]

If your check engine light came on you should have codes stored. I would expect to see the code that tells you you have idm codes stored. You have to perform a koeo injector buzz test with the scan tool in order to retrieve the idm codes.

Okay that's what I didn't do, I only scanned the PCM. Damn, wish I woulda known that last night haha oh well