Help With Turbo and Injector Selection, Please

[Muskrat]

I've been flip flopping back and forth, constantly finding or learning something new in my quest to improve my 7.3. This means I don't know exactly what I'm doing, so it's time to seek help.

My goals are modest. It's an E99 ECLB with 223K and currently the original stock parts work flawlessly. She passes all the basic tests with flying colors and I've spent the last year ensuring that all maintenance and minor mechanical issues are resolved (i.e. fluids, fuel strainers, EBP tube, fuel heater, ICP, CPS...). Last January I installed a DP Infinity with 80E & 40T but mostly to monitor, also has dual EGT probes.

Now I've noticed the up pipes are leaking and that's not a cheap fix so it's time to start planning. Almost everything I've read basically say's "convert to L99 parts and don't look back". But there's a lot of dated 7.3l info floating around the internet and an L99 swap will set me back $1,500-$2,600 for zero gain. My goals are modest, I don't tow much or heavy, I don't race, drive like madman, or compete in anyway. 350-400hp sounds like plenty to me. Most important is driveability, reliability, efficiency and longevity in that order. The stock E99 fails in driveability unless you like that 80's school bus feel. Oh, and I don't have a ton of money to play with either. This will have to be a step by step process.

So here's where I need help, this is the order I plan to buy and install (Unless something gives up sooner);

RiffRaff E99 up pipes
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-bellowed-up-pipe-kit-94-early-99/


T500 HPOP or similar based on price and reputation.


FFD 160cc maybe 165cc injectors. I'm not opposed to Rosewood or others as long as they last.
But which nozzle for my goals, not just max power but characteristics as well? I understand what the size does but don't have experience to know what will have driveability and longevity for my engine. It seems some cc/nozzle combos work better than others for different tuners. DP Tuners only shows a fraction of whats available, is there a reason?


KC Turbo 38R E99 drop in (when/if is comes out)
https://kcturbos.net/collections/new-products/products/94-98-obs-kc-tp38r-turbo
Will is lag? I don't care for crazy top end power, I want low to mid power.

OR

Dieselsites E99 drop in
https://swampsdiesel.com/products/dieselsite-wicked-ball-bearing-turbo-early-1999/

Thanks in advance
Muskrat

 

[psduser1]

L99 swap will be about the cheapest, and decent bang for the buck. It will also limit and future turbo mods.

Uppipes (bellowed)
Dorman +/-200$
I have (RiffRaff,etc) +/-400$
Uppipes (stock)
Who cares, lol.

Turbo
Gtp38 stock l99
$200-700ish and you'll be limited to around 325 hp, for a reasonable service life, i.e. 100k miles

Gtp38r
$14-1500, new, maybe as low as 800ish, used

Intake plenum
Aftermarket $200
Stock 25-50$ and will do anything you need to 40 lbs of boost.

Intake y and turbo mount
Prices here are all over the place, but shouldn't be more than a couple of bills for stock takeoffs.
You'll need a different turbo inlet tube, also if you go with the "r", also.

The other option is a t4 mount and turbo. This would give you the most options for down the road, and will also be the most expensive, unless you stumble onto someone trying for a quick sale.
I can't give you an accurate price, as I never actually researched them.
As for injectors, a 160/30 should put you right in the high 300s for hp, assuming you hpop and fuel system are in decent shape.

 

[mattman347]

For as much as you're putting into a Stocks style turbo set up, you can have something that will actually flow some air like a 364.5 SXE! The kit comes with bellowed a pipes all the intercooler piping high flow Intake Y and everything you need to install. You will be much happier with that set up, I've had a lot of people go from the ball bearing style drop-in's to the set up and absolutely love it. 160/30's would get my vote for a perfect tow rig set up. http://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/product/idp-t4-s364-5sxe-complete-kit/.

I actually put together a 400hp tow package on the site too to help guide people. http://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/7-3l-power-combos/ultimate-7-3l-tow-package-400-475rwhp/

 

[Muskrat]

The Irate Kit is nice, but by the time I add the highly recommended plenums and boot kit it's nearly $3,000 up front to fix my exhaust leak.

I'm also hesitant to stray from stock-ish parts. This is my daily driver, 75+ miles per day.

I will keep it in mind and appreciate your reply.

 

[euroford]

if you do a hybrid injector like a swamps 200/30 your stock HPOP will probably be fine.

 

[mandkole]

OP, your plan looks fine. Seals it up right with the least amount of modding and expense.

On injectors, will need new tuning to go with a single shot injector-- I would consider just getting a brand new set of Alliant AC code injectors and be done. You will get a little more fuel and mine ran great right out of the box. Lots of recommendations on PIS injectors so you may want to talk with them when you're ready to pull the injector trigger-- they can do both remans and new ones.

have fun!

 

[JDelaney]

I've got the same set up that Matt recommended. You will be amazed at the difference in the your truck runs with a 364.5SXE.

 

[mattman347]

The Irate Kit is nice, but by the time I add the highly recommended plenums and boot kit it's nearly $3,000 up front to fix my exhaust leak.

I'm also hesitant to stray from stock-ish parts. This is my daily driver, 75+ miles per day.

I will keep it in mind and appreciate your reply.

I sent you a PM. With it being driven that much its all the more reason to put your money into something more relatable, rebuildable and all around better in the long run. You not building stock power so why try and use stock parts. :naughty:

 

[Muskrat]

So 160/30% injectors sounds about right.

Seems like the S364.5 SXE is a fantastic turbo but more than I need. As long as the KC38 doesn't lag more than stock I'll be happy.

 

[Muskrat]

Mattman, just saw your message. Got a meeting to attend and I'll look it over.

 

[psduser1]

For as much as you're putting into a Stocks style turbo set up, you can have something that will actually flow some air like a 364.5 SXE! The kit comes with bellowed a pipes all the intercooler piping high flow Intake Y and everything you need to install. You will be much happier with that set up, I've had a lot of people go from the ball bearing style drop-in's to the set up and absolutely love it. 160/30's would get my vote for a perfect tow rig set up. http://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/product/idp-t4-s364-5sxe-complete-kit/.

I actually put together a 400hp tow package on the site too to help guide people. http://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/7-3l-power-combos/ultimate-7-3l-tow-package-400-475rwhp/

I sent you a PM. With it being driven that much its all the more reason to put your money into something more relatable, rebuildable and all around better in the long run. You not building stock power so why try and use stock parts. :naughty:

This is the guy to deal with if you want to spring for the t4 setup.
I don't think you'll "need" to go that far to achieve your current goal, but you wouldn't be at all disappointed! If you change your mind down the road, there would be room to grow with minimal cost.

 

[TARM]

Question:

What transmission is it automatic or manual as if you add the power from anything of this and its stock and you actually plan to use the power you are looking at money there.

Do not forget once you open this can of worms you will be going from one weak link to the next.

If you do not want to spend the money and want utter reliably but a bit more fun power:

38R as it will give you enough power and is one very tough turbo.

Set of baby hybrids that will allow it to work well with stock hpop but get you more throttle response if you ever wanted to upgrade to a slightly higher flow single hpop. 30% nozzles

Bellow pipes IMHO should be a standard upgrade even for a 100% stock truck once the stock setup starts to leak.

You really should replace the now very worn and weak valve springs with some CC910 even if you were not adding any of it IMHO.

You can pull the push rods and see if they are in good shape at the same time.

Matt@GHA tunes

Reg return for fuel and use good filters that actually give absolute micron %. IF you do not understand the filter specs take some time to understand. There are no WIX/NAPA filters I would EVER EVER EVER put on my fuel system as I have main oil filters that have higher mic filtration. A filter that states say 5 micron "nominal" means that with each pass thru the filter its only stopping particle at best 14-20 mic. Donaldson, Luberfiner, Racor some others that manf OTR and other commercial engines have some good filters.

You want at least absolute of 5 mic and really 3 or under is best. Same goes for oil. The lower the mic you can get the longer your injectors will last both fuel and oil.

You really want a two stage filter setup but if you have to stay with the bowl then riff raff and use Racor filter. You could always add a filter inline post pump pre fuel bowl and that would save you some of the costs.

You really should do a tank PU etc if not already another SOP for anyone with a 7.3 so IMO why not just replace all the hose as its cheap but whatever.

For Air grab the big Donaldson filter.


If its an 4r100 at least get a VB and do not hammer it hard thru the shifts and it will help the TQ and clutches live.

I know people hem-n-haw about X over HPOP lines but consider most that have tried 4 line vs 2 line dual or big single HPOP see a difference. Not in power but maybe smoother running. But instead of buying one of these specialized one just find an extra OEM HPOP line the longer one maybe helpful and two head oil rail fittings. Make that you X over. We know those hoses stand up to even a decade of use. The way I see it is it can not do any real harm and is stupid easy to install. Its no biggie either way.

@ 227K using standard oil and fuel filters those injectors are well worn. So you will see improvement no matter what.



If you are really looking for the most life out of your 7.3 I can tell you how I would set it up outside of performance items but not sure that is the goal here.

 

[cjfarm111]

A set of PIS 160/30's and an sxe 363 will suit you just fine. It would spool great and make a great daily driver with the extra power when towing

 

[Muskrat]

Ford reman auto with 45K on it.

Currently using Motorcraft fuel filter, AMSOIL oil filter and Donaldson 6637. The fuel tank strainers have been cleaned and pickup foot replaced.

So far the injectors are working well, I'm in no hurry to replace them. The truck starts fine in 20 deg weather after sitting for two days without the block heater. It doesn't blow any smoke, just fires up with authority.

I don't mind putting money into the truck along the way to make it better all around. But as you said about chasing the weak link, I've been there with another vehicle years ago and don't want to go there again.

 

[mandkole]

sounds like a great running truck.. looks good in the avatar too!

 

[Muskrat]

sounds like a great running truck.. looks good in the avatar too!

Yes, it is and I was fortunate to get it. I've put about 25K miles on it without any issues. That's not to say I haven't fixed a few things but it hasn't let me down or even had a hiccup. There's not even a good oil leak yet.

 

[TARM]

Ford reman auto with 45K on it.

Currently using Motorcraft fuel filter, AMSOIL oil filter and Donaldson 6637. The fuel tank strainers have been cleaned and pickup foot replaced.

So far the injectors are working well, I'm in no hurry to replace them. The truck starts fine in 20 deg weather after sitting for two days without the block heater. It doesn't blow any smoke, just fires up with authority.

I don't mind putting money into the truck along the way to make it better all around. But as you said about chasing the weak link, I've been there with another vehicle years ago and don't want to go there again.

That is great. Amsoil filters are relabeled Donaldson so you may want to see if the same cross ref model can be had cheaper without the Amsoil paint job. Without a doubt the stock injectors have enough fuel for more turbo than stock especially on the exhaust side. If you want a small one that flows more such as has been suggested. That would be the single biggest boost to perf you will get and then wold open you to a slightly larger injector once those OEMs get worn out.

I would consider a BTS or JW VB as it will help the trans handle the extra power. Not sure if you have it but a 6.0 cooler of course. The riffraf RR is the best choice if you keep the fuel bowl. Its cheap comparatively as well.

A free flow muffler

Tune adjustment to take advantage of the new turbo might be needed depending.

For a DD work truck that would make a nice peppy reliable setup. The weak link will be the trans if you are hard on it. Keep WOT outside of the shift points and it will last much longer.

I would change out those valve springs though no matter if you made any changes if you allow turbo BP to go over the stock settings of the WG. They are cheap and will take a Sat to swap. You can just throw 0.030 shims and would not need to measure or you can measure every one and use the exact combo to achieve a give PSI. At this level more really is not needed.

 

[Muskrat]

I've only been WOT about four times since I bought the truck, even then it wasn't for long. It's not a race car so I don't drive like it is. Usually, I'll wait for lockup in 3rd gear then roll into 60-70%ish throttle if I need to move quickly.

I've been looking into the valve springs since it was mentioned and I see the reasoning behind it now.

I will also look into a larger cooler and BTS valvebody. Plan for it when it's convenient for dropping the trans pan and replacing a little fluid. Currently running the stock teeny-tiny cooler that doesn't pass through the radiator. The DP Infinity says temps are in the 140 deg range. Ambient temps are 40s-50s. I've not pulled anything but a lawn mower trailer yet with this truck.

The truck has a turbo-back 4" MBRP exhaust system.

 

[TARM]

If you are not going to race it or pull anything over 5K the stock cooler should be OK but if you find a deal on a 6.0 even the smaller 28 row get it as with trans cooler is better ( up to a reasonable point of course)

 

[Muskrat]

Will do, thanks for the advice.