HPPO FAILURE .. NEED OPINIONS/ADVICE

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

Recently did a motor swap to get forged rods , new setup is 300/200's, 38r , Gen 3 over hb jr. Truck ran strong, but After about 130 miles it just stalled out going down the highway and wouldn't restart. Towed it home started checking it out and only built 150-180 icp cranking, also noticed the hpop resivoir was low. Swapped in brand new ford ipr, no change. Swapped brand new alliant injector o rings, no change. Changed oil right after the oring so I know it's full and it's brand new LE 8700.

Upon much much reading , I decided to have the hpop inspected to rule it out. Dyno proven sent me the pics I will post below.

My question is : What could cause something like this to happen ? Could this have been the result of a lack of low pressure oil ? A high pressure pump issue that snowballed ?

Dyno proven said they've never seen this happen. I now need to pull the injectors again and have them cleaned and inspected.

What should I do to help insure that any metal doesn't damage anything else throughout the high and low pressure systems ??

I'd like to find the root cause of the issue to prevent it from reoccurring.

Thanks in advance to any and all for your input.

ToMang07 · Apr 11, 2017

That's some carnage.

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

I know right. I just pray the majority of it stayed within the pump itself and not in my brand new injectors...

Powerstroker7.3 · Apr 11, 2017

Definitely need to change the oil and filter. Maybe even go to the extent of cleaning out the oil rails. It's kinda a toss up to know if the front cover was scored and the low pressure pump was damaged. But man that thing destroyed itself.

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DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

Powerstroker7.3 said:
Definitely need to change the oil and filter. Maybe even go to the extent of cleaning out the oil rails. It's kinda a toss up to know if the front cover was scored and the low pressure pump was damaged. But man that thing destroyed itself.

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That's what a mechanic buddy suggested, to pull the galley plugs then brake clean then blow it out.

You're referring to the big galley plugs on the outside with the square recessed deal, or the small guys under the VC ?

Another mechanic buddy said just change the oil/filter then do it again after about 100 miles.

I wonder if the carnage is the cause of my no start...

ToMang07 · Apr 11, 2017

DieselJpower said:
That's what a mechanic buddy suggested, to pull the galley plugs then brake clean then blow it out.

You're referring to the big galley plugs on the outside with the square recessed deal, or the small guys under the VC ?

Another mechanic buddy said just change the oil/filter then do it again after about 100 miles.

I wonder if the carnage is the cause of my no start...

I hope the injectors are ok, I'd be getting every bit of oil out I could. might as well check the LPOP too. That sucks man.

Swaan · Apr 11, 2017

I wonder if the carnage is the cause of my no start...[/QUOTE]

Well geez, do you think??? Lol

Thats bad bud. Your no start is the least your worries.
All those filings are thru your injectors for sure. Better hope the rest engine is ok.

I would clean out your hpop lines and rails in head. Send injectors out to be thoroughly cleaned and checked out.
Buy a new 17 degree stock pump or an adrenaline.
And pray the rest the filings are not throughout your engine.

As said, check low pressure oil pump too for scoring.

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

The more I think about this I feel like puking

sootie · Apr 11, 2017

was that a new honey badger?

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

No it was number 272 bought new in May of 2014. Had probably 70-80k on it. They said they made some changes after the first 300 they built.

powerjoke73 · Apr 11, 2017

The main change was switching the brand of springs used in the hpop.

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

Ya that's what they said. I wish I knew what started this ordeal. It very well likely was the jr, but idk. I feel like I should just rebuild the whole motor for good measure to know everything is clean and safe. I would be pissed if I tryed a thorough cleaning and inspection and something else got tore up.

psduser1 · Apr 11, 2017

DieselJpower said:
Ya that's what they said. I wish I knew what started this ordeal. It very well likely was the jr, but idk. I feel like I should just rebuild the whole motor for good measure to know everything is clean and safe. I would be pissed if I tryed a thorough cleaning and inspection and something else got tore up.

Kinda where I'd be at.
Looks like most of the debris is brass, not steel, which is a bonus. I think you might want to pull the engine, drop the pan and front cover for an inspection.

I'd start by having the injectors looked over, though, and see if they have any damage.

emev0l · Apr 11, 2017

The very first thing I would do is send the injectors out to be checked, pull the IPR apart, cut open the oil filter, and look threw the old oil. If all of that comes back clean I would run it.

If you find anything anywhere then pull it and pull it down to a long block, pop the cover, the pan, spray it down real good, look around, make a judgement call.

That sucks, things like that are gonna happen, maybe weld your cam gear to the cam if you tear it down that far.

Magnum PD · Apr 11, 2017

Oil pump and bearings would be my worry.

Been there, done that.

DieselJpower · Apr 11, 2017

Magnum PD said:
Oil pump and bearings would be my worry.

Been there, done that.

Was it you hb jr that crapped out and sent metal through your motor?

Magnum PD · Apr 11, 2017

No. The hypermax Connecting rods bumped and broke off my piston oil cooling jets.

superpsd · Apr 11, 2017

That's a sucky situation. I would clean out the oil rails best you can. The injector oil sides will likely have debris. So send them out or tear them down yourself. One could probably get away with pulling the injectors and pulling the oil sides apart. Cleaning and flushing out the oil sides until no debris is found. Not much to it pull the solenoid and then the armature plate and body top. Pull poppet valve out. Inspect poppet valve and valves seats for signs of gouges and scars. Clean it all out and reassemble. The passage leading down to the Intensifier piston would be tricky without pulling the fuel sides apart.

Magnum PD · Apr 11, 2017

That's the situation I'm in. I've never taken the injectors apart. One or more of mine isn't operating as it should. Would rather have Tim (PIS) do them than me screw something up with them.

superpsd · Apr 11, 2017

Most would rather hand them over. I was just pointing g out they are not complicated on the oil sides. Granted without pulling the fuel sides you cannot clean out the IP piston chamber. I suppose I could come up with a way to flush it thru the feed port which is exposed when you pull the body top off. That's just me. We all know sending injectors out to be gone thru is not cheap. If you put an oil side back together the way you took it apart there should be no issue. I've pulled the oil sides apart without removing the injectors from the engine to make repairs. Most of the debris is likely to be caught before it enters the feed ports on the outside of the body as seen when the injector is removed. The lift on the poppet valve is low so no huge debris is likely to make it past the poppet valve to the IP passage. Granted sending them in would be the recommended way. As you are pulling the injectors out I would do so slowly and stopping once the oil feed section is exposed and use a vacuum to prevent debris from falling into the fuel section feed holes and or down into the cylinder.