IH piston install Question

Diesel23

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Hey guys , started installing pistons , does this look right , piston is at top dead center , off deck its .029 , I didnt even pay attention to the stock ones but if i do measure stock pistons from top of wrist pin to top of piston the ford stock piston is shoter, by .002 , with oem gaskets will this work or is there a problem ? just want it right so im asking to be sure - thanks


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78f100

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I will have to look in the specs but I do remember protrusion being close to .030 iirc.
 

Ross@Flyindiesel

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maybe the ceramic coating made it that much thicker. glad its gonna work for ya but just maybe something to throw in there if someone plans on doing this later.
 
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All 6.4 pistons protrude like this one. The ceramic coating only adds about .002" to that. The 6.4 runs close anyway. If you deck the block then you should cut pistons down accordingly. Otherwise in this case your good to go.
 

B585Ford

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All 6.4 pistons protrude like this one. The ceramic coating only adds about .002" to that. The 6.4 runs close anyway. If you deck the block then you should cut pistons down accordingly. Otherwise in this case your good to go.

If you defy the block by 0.004" or less, would you have to cut down the coated pistons? Or only if you protruding above 0.030?
 
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If you defy the block by 0.004" or less, would you have to cut down the coated pistons? Or only if you protruding above 0.030?

I would measure it and see if its within spec. As long as its within the wax allowed you should be ok. The main thing I would be worried about is the valves hitting. I've ran into troubles with stage one cams hitting on a stock heigh block and upgraded springs. I know it only gets worse with a milled deck. I try to always push for cutting in valve reliefs when the pistons are out. Also if you mill the bock and heads you really need to check your pushrod length. I've seen standard length pushrods hold the valves open on a milled block. I have used .005 shorter pushrods or more depending on the exact height needed.
 

B585Ford

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I would measure it and see if its within spec. As long as its within the wax allowed you should be ok. The main thing I would be worried about is the valves hitting. I've ran into troubles with stage one cams hitting on a stock heigh block and upgraded springs. I know it only gets worse with a milled deck. I try to always push for cutting in valve reliefs when the pistons are out. Also if you mill the bock and heads you really need to check your pushrod length. I've seen standard length pushrods hold the valves open on a milled block. I have used .005 shorter pushrods or more depending on the exact height needed.

That's very helpful. Thanks.
 

78f100

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I would measure it and see if its within spec. As long as its within the wax allowed you should be ok. The main thing I would be worried about is the valves hitting. I've ran into troubles with stage one cams hitting on a stock heigh block and upgraded springs. I know it only gets worse with a milled deck. I try to always push for cutting in valve reliefs when the pistons are out. Also if you mill the bock and heads you really need to check your pushrod length. I've seen standard length pushrods hold the valves open on a milled block. I have used .005 shorter pushrods or more depending on the exact height needed.

How much was off of the heads on the motor you had valve clearance issues with the stage 1 cam?
 
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How much was off of the heads on the motor you had valve clearance issues with the stage 1 cam?

I can't remember for sure they had been milled though. When the motor was pulled down to do a full build a couple weeks ago every exhaust valve had been contacting the pistons. I am milling the deck this time because of surface pitting and the pistons will be milled the same plus valve reliefs. Also the pushrods are gonna be shorter due to milled heads and deck.
That's why I am using a brand new block for the 2.6 truck.
 

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