rosspulliam
Member
Hey everyone,
Been reading my little heart out the last 2 days as my injectors are finally starting to give up the ghost. I get a bit of a grey haze out the exhaust when cold, idle has a bit of a shimmy, OEM injectors have 245,000 miles, and one failed last August (which I replaced with a stock one because I was in a jam and needed it running). So I've got 7 245k injectors an 1 pretty much brand new Alliant injector.
So, with that said, before they all start dropping like flies I'm going to plan out my strategy to deal with it. I've been waiting for 15 years for parts to finally wear out so I can replace them with better ones! LOL
Some of my goals:
My mods so far have almost exclusively revolved around cosmetic changes (emblem d*****s, upper cab corner trim d*****, stereo, power fold/telescope mirrors, 2008 rear glass), NVH improvements (interior is fully deadened with Second skin, door seal mod), and longevity (oil bypass filtration, coolant filter, aluminum diff cover, Tymar intake). I do have gauges (pyro, boost, trans temp). I already have a TS 6 pos chip with Dynoproven tunes, but I'm up for a reburn up to and including live tuning from one of the Texas tuners (Tony Wildman is an hour from me).
My transmission is a stock, 245,000 mile trans. I realize that these upgrades will limit it's remaining life. I'm a pretty mellow driver and don't expect that to change even if I have 400 hp available to me. However, when I need to rebuild it, I'll get a quality rebuild.
Knowing what my plans for air are, I'd like to dive into what I see as my prime contenders for injectors:
Some specific questions on the above:
tl:dr
What is your opinion of the injectors listed above? Good for a 245k PMR motor in good condition, street driven, lowered truck that a guy just has fun in sometimes towing car trailers, ski boats, and small travel trailers? Would you buy a different injector entirely? Which one? RR/fuel bowl d***** AND KC38R AND exhaust mandatory all at once or can it effectively be broken into stages without constantly repaying for tuning?
Been reading my little heart out the last 2 days as my injectors are finally starting to give up the ghost. I get a bit of a grey haze out the exhaust when cold, idle has a bit of a shimmy, OEM injectors have 245,000 miles, and one failed last August (which I replaced with a stock one because I was in a jam and needed it running). So I've got 7 245k injectors an 1 pretty much brand new Alliant injector.
So, with that said, before they all start dropping like flies I'm going to plan out my strategy to deal with it. I've been waiting for 15 years for parts to finally wear out so I can replace them with better ones! LOL
Some of my goals:
- Safe for PMR bottom end, going forged isn't in the cards right now
- Fun street truck reliable for road travel (family all over the midwest including Denver, so mountains are a given a time or 2 a year)
- Works with stock/bolt on turbos (planning KC38R either at same time as injectors or as a follow on)
- I want to maintain my ability to tow, but I have never towed anything terribly heavy, and have no plans to. I'll borrow small utility trailers, occasionally rent a 20' car hauler to move my other project around, hope to someday have a 24' enclosed trailer for the project car, smaller runabout boats (4-6k lbs), RVs (<10,000 lbs). I do not want to be restricted where I can go with any of the above anywhere in the lower 48, Canada, or Alaska.
My mods so far have almost exclusively revolved around cosmetic changes (emblem d*****s, upper cab corner trim d*****, stereo, power fold/telescope mirrors, 2008 rear glass), NVH improvements (interior is fully deadened with Second skin, door seal mod), and longevity (oil bypass filtration, coolant filter, aluminum diff cover, Tymar intake). I do have gauges (pyro, boost, trans temp). I already have a TS 6 pos chip with Dynoproven tunes, but I'm up for a reburn up to and including live tuning from one of the Texas tuners (Tony Wildman is an hour from me).
My transmission is a stock, 245,000 mile trans. I realize that these upgrades will limit it's remaining life. I'm a pretty mellow driver and don't expect that to change even if I have 400 hp available to me. However, when I need to rebuild it, I'll get a quality rebuild.
Knowing what my plans for air are, I'd like to dive into what I see as my prime contenders for injectors:
- Rosewood Stage 2 160/80s
- Rosewood 200/30 Hybrids
- PIS 175/80s
- PIS 200/80s
Some specific questions on the above:
- PIS 175/80s are "Designed to fuel in the higher RPM range than the 175/30% injectors". How much higher? Is it the best option for a PMR motor looking for a safe bump from stock?
- PIS 200/80s are "Designed to fuel your 7.3 through the entire RPM band." Does this make them a better choice for my fun street truck that I still want to be able to tow?
- Which of the above would require an HPOP upgrade? If I can avoid an HPOP change I will, mine seems to be in good condition and able to maintain ICP under WOT using stock injectors (monitored through my AE).
- On the KC38R, I have a DieselSite Turbomaster wastegate control on my stock turbo. With the KC38R I would hook the redline back up to their billet wastegate instead of swapping my Turbomaster over?
- I plan to install the full Strictly Diesel RR fuel bowl d***** system if that helps narrow down injector choice (including in tank mods, pre- and post- filtration).
- Finally, of these choices, would any be worth running on my stock turbo for awhile, and then upgrade to the KC38R later? Or would I be best to just man up and do injectors/turbo/fuel/exhaust all at once? I presume changing turbos later would facilitate another tuning appointment to take advantage of the combo, making it probably easier to just bite the bullet and do it now?
tl:dr
What is your opinion of the injectors listed above? Good for a 245k PMR motor in good condition, street driven, lowered truck that a guy just has fun in sometimes towing car trailers, ski boats, and small travel trailers? Would you buy a different injector entirely? Which one? RR/fuel bowl d***** AND KC38R AND exhaust mandatory all at once or can it effectively be broken into stages without constantly repaying for tuning?
