main studs and connecting rod bolts
- Thread starter P.I.S_7.3
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Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Save your money. None of those will keep a weak rod from being weak
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4.0l sahara
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yes. rods,girdle,main studs,fill the block
tripletdairies
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rods and studs will be just fine with that setup if your goals for more hp in future do the hard block now and be done with it pry 1.5" or so from the deck would be ok dont waste money on a girdle
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Why would you NOT do a main girdle? Walk is still knarly with one, it's even worse without. If I know anything, it's that you don't cheap out on motor builds that are going to see any type of power.
ARP connecting rod bolts/studs/whatever are hands down a giant waste of money on a PMR or Forged rod. Main studs on a stock cap without a girdle with those cheese ball rods inside the motor is a even BIGGER waste of money. Do you have experience with these mods? What results did you see?
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tripletdairies
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aftermarket rods and studs would not be a waste of money.( sorry if i came across as just leaving the factory rods and adding studs) every engine is different. i run 400/400's in my sled truck with carrillo's, main studs, and a 1.75" fill. balanced the crank and checked alignment on mains after the hardblock was set up, no line boring was needed. ive ran this setup for two years now with no issues. also know trucks that needed to be line bored after the fill that have had no walk issues without a girdle. if your that concerned about a girdle mise well run a bedplate from swamps and fill it. dave will prolly tell you that they dont do many girdles anymore
neverkickn
New member
Anyone ever pin the caps on a 7.3? I know it is common on high hp gasser builds. I don't know about a hollow dowel, but maybe a solid dowel on each side of the cap between the studs.
Powerstroke geniuses please advise!
Powerstroke geniuses please advise!
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Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Billet rods wasn't what the op was referring to, so it sounds like we agree.
As far as cranks go and keeping engines together, well.... I only know what I've done with a couple engines and what I've watched friends do with 75-100 engines. We'll just have to agree to disagree about how to do it.
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obspsd
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Not Trying To derail But With Billet Rods, Girdle, And Main Studs Does It Still Help To Fill The Block? I'm Also Building A Motor With 350/200 And s468
Powerstroked162
On Da Juice
Everything helps but nothing prevents the block splitting at the cam journal, well except maybe a bed plate. I don't know who or what's been tested on one. They came to market right after just about everybody gave up and moved on lol
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Golfer recommends block fill even before a girdle. Makes block that much stronger.
obspsd
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Ok Thank You Guys
Filling the block requires deck plates and main stud girdle in place to torque the block to simulate everything installed. Pretty sure one side of the block is done at a time and held so that side is flat for cement to cure flat. Then needs to set a while after that.
4.0l sahara
New member
Could just bolt a head down after it is poured if you don't have a deck plate
DocBar
New member
Interesting. I was always under the impression that both sides were done at the same time so the torquing would be identical to an installed motor. I never even considered one side being done at a time. Seems illogical to me.
smoker00
New member
This is what i was told also...But im not to sure.
