manifolds/up pipes.. multiple questions

Nick284

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i read a post that this could be done cab on? anyone out there do this as well? id like to do it early spring right when the weather warms up a bit. is it better to go with 6.0 manifolds or just after market 6.4 manifolds? also, i know the manifolds will flow more if i read correctly? but is there a reason to change up pipes? im running a single on my truck, and hear it will be that much better by doing manifolds/ up pipes due to flowing more. if anyone has done this cab on, other then the post i read. id love to hear the steps you took and how it went. any input would be appreciated, thanks
 
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powerstroked08

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Its doable. Several of us have done it. I'll find my write up on it. I think its a good reliabality upgrade simply since there is a 90* bend cast into the manifold instead of the up pipe.
 

powerstroked08

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Manifolds
First off if your doing a 6.0 manifold upgrade i would highly reccommend having your A/C system pumped out and buy new bolts for the manifolds since the old ones are about 1/2" too long. And another thing to do is match the gaskets to the manifolds with a dremmel or something similar.
Ok first i removed the down pipe and then the up pipes and egr down pipe. now is where things got fun. Since i was doing the manifolds and studs i wanted to make sure i was going to do it in a way that had the easiest access for both things i was doing so to do the manifolds im not saying all of the following steps are absolutely necessary but i did find it made it easier to see/do. Now to get to the driverside manifold i went and removed the driverside inner fender(8mm and a 6mm bolts), the battery tray and coolant reservoir (13mm) (i disconnected both batteries and drained all the coolant) then disconnected the radiator hose, the lower hose from the reservoir, and the small coolant hose on the front of the reservoir. Once that was out of the way i unscrewed the back pressure line and then removed the manifold (10mm). Now for the passenger side manifold i again removed the inner fender(8mm and 6mm) now i took a 3/8 ratchet and a cheater bar to slack the alternator belt and then slid an allen wrench into the tensioner slot to hold it slacked, then i removed the alternator (13mm). Next thing i did and i dont know if there is any way around it, but i removed the 2 A/C lines from the compressor and the one upper stud from the compressor. Once that is out of the way i unbolted the heat sheild and then the manifold, now its really tight for some of the bolts but i found that a 3/8 air ratchet was really helpful and if you had a 1/4 drive air ratchet you would probably be better off. Now some of the bolts are still hard to get at but a good 12 point wrench is good enough to get the front bottom ones.
 

powerstroked08

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Its been 3 years and i also did a double disc clutch and head studs. But i pulled it in on Saturday close to noon, worked on it until dinner (about 5 or so) then resumed Sunday around 11 and i drove it home on Sunday evening. I did the whole thing alone except my dad helped me put the transmission back in since i only had a floor jack and not a transmission jack. But if i had to guess I'd say a few hours on the manifolds.
 

Nick284

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i can get to the manifold and up pipe bolts without pulling the trans correct? you just did that for the clutch... could i buy used 6.0 manifolds online and they fit, or do i need to buy them from elite,mpd, rudys, etc.. doesnt sound too hard, then a gain im not the best mechanic but il probly get by with your instructions
 
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Nick284

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Does it matter what gaskets i use for this project. I found black diamond gaskets that i can pick up. Or is O.E.M. The way to go? If so what does the bolts amd gaskets cost, if anyone knows off hand. Trying to add things up quick
 

Jbird

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So you can swap manifolds with the cab on but what about the up pipes? I missed it if it was said
 

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