Mid-Injector Swap Questions

sniper_101 · May 27, 2011

Pulled my stock injectors today to put in my 160's when they arrive, but have a few questions.

1) When I put my new glow plugs in, should I use any kind of anti-seize or lube?

2) My rear-driver-side injector had a mangled lower O-ring, and also the tip of the injector is silver, compared to the rest that are gold/copper coloured, normal? (pics below)

3) What is the best way to purge the oil from the cylinders than ran in?

4) Best way to clean them for shipping? Submerge in diesel and dry?

Thanks guys!

Failed O-ring/silver tip:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/westcoast13/F-350/IMG_6759.jpg

Above (silver tipped) injector on the right, copper/gold tip on the left:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v71/westcoast13/F-350/IMG_6772.jpg

Tom S · May 27, 2011

I use just a little bit of anti seize on glow plugs just like I do on spark plugs. I have a suction tool that I use to suck out the oil from the cylinders. Someguys just purge it by pulling the glowplugs and turning the motor over. I would lay the inejctors to allow the fluid to drain from them and then wrap each one up in a shop towel to catch the residual oil.

KPSquared · May 28, 2011

I'd use a little anti-sieze just like you would a spark plug... you don't want to break a glow plug off in the head...

As far as purging the oil, I just left the plugs out and cranked it over... made a helluva mess, but it was quick. I should have just stuck the valve covers back on with a couple bolts first... But I didn't cause I was in a bit of a rush.

As far as shipping the injectors, mine came from Full Force in ziploc bags, wrapped in bubble wrap so I just threw 'em back in the same bags. That was the dirtiest box I have ever mailed... I didn't clean them or anything. They just laid on the tailgate on a rag for a half a day and then I threw them in the bags. Don't know why you'd have to clean them up at all.

ITUKMOR · May 28, 2011

For us, it is more important you wrap and package the injectors to prevent shipping damage than it is to clean them. I would suggest wiping excess oil and fuel off with a rag and then packaging them up the way your new ones came to you.

As for purging of the oil a "cylinder sucker" or pnuematic brake bleeder is the fastest way to remove 90% of the fluid. Just insert the hose directly into the injector cup nozzle hole. Once the injectors are installed, bar the engine over by hand to squeeze any remaining oil & fuel past the piston rings into the crankcase. After the truck has the oil system "primed" and the truck starts and idles, do your oil change once up to temp.

The barring of the engine with the glow plugs out will achieve the same result but it definitely makes a pretty good mess. However I would recommend you do this by hand and not with the vehicle starter.

sniper_101 · May 28, 2011

Great stuff, thanks a bunch guys! Really appreciate the quick help!

Tree Trimmer · May 29, 2011

you can go to walmart and buy a $2 turkey baster, put a short hose on it, and suk the oil out also.

TrailerHauler · May 30, 2011

Tom S said:
I use just a little bit of anti seize on glow plugs just like I do on spark plugs. I have a suction tool that I use to suck out the oil from the cylinders. Someguys just purge it by pulling the glowplugs and turning the motor over. I would lay the inejctors to allow the fluid to drain from them and then wrap each one up in a shop towel to catch the residual oil.

X2 :whs: I've always had good luck installing the injectors pulling the glow plugs then setting the valve covers on with a couple bolts and cranking the engine.

91turbogsx · May 30, 2011

Tree Trimmer said:
you can go to walmart and buy a $2 turkey baster, put a short hose on it, and suk the oil out also.

I have done this in a pinch as well. Worked great. But it won't last long when it is exposed to diesel fuel. At least the one I got didn't. But it's cheap and works.

Tree Trimmer · May 31, 2011

ya, thats a cheap one time use tool. it will do about one set of injectors. after that, its no good.

but if you know your gonna have to do more than one set, buy the right tool. but if your only gonna do one set, why buy the tool?

sniper_101 · Jun 1, 2011

Gonna bump this with a new question:

I received my injectors Monday, one injector has a blue port/wiring harness connector, and the code on the top is different (the other seven are AE. . ., and the one injector with blue is AD. . ., I think, maybe other way around. Is this anything to be concerned about? I'm going to assume NO, with them being remans.

Thoughts?

lincolnlocker · Jun 1, 2011

I wanna know why the injectors are discolored from each other

HaysKSFirefighter · Jun 2, 2011

I want to see what you think of the new sticks once you get them in, I'm about to order a set of 160's myself.

ITUKMOR · Jun 2, 2011

sniper_101 said:
Gonna bump this with a new question:

I received my injectors Monday, one injector has a blue port/wiring harness connector, and the code on the top is different (the other seven are AE. . ., and the one injector with blue is AD. . ., I think, maybe other way around. Is this anything to be concerned about? I'm going to assume NO, with them being remans.

Thoughts?

There are many times when a set of injectors (remans) are built out of different cores. However more than likely was the solenoid needed to be replaced at the time of rebuild and that was the one on top. No worries the solenoids are all the same regardless of what is stamped on them.

sniper_101 · Jun 2, 2011

ITUKMOR said:
There are many times when a set of injectors (remans) are built out of different cores. However more than likely was the solenoid needed to be replaced at the time of rebuild and that was the one on top. No worries the solenoids are all the same regardless of what is stamped on them.

That's what I suspected/hoped, awesome.

Thanks again guys!

HaysKSFirefighter - As soon as my oil pan dipstick tube ring kit shows I'll have it back together and let you know.

HaysKSFirefighter · Jun 2, 2011

sniper_101 said:
That's what I suspected/hoped, awesome.

Thanks again guys!

HaysKSFirefighter - As soon as my oil pan dipstick tube ring kit shows I'll have it back together and let you know.

Thanks :thumbup:

sniper_101 · Jun 3, 2011

I don't own an inch-lbs torque wrench for the injector hold down bolts, so I'm slightly concerned about them. I tapped the injectors down lightly until I felt/heard them stop, then tightened the hold-down bolts until just over what I would consider "snug". About what I thought they were coming out. Didn't use any thread locker, as I didn't think it should need it (a few heat cycles and the bolts should get a bit "sticky").

Is that what most who don't have the proper torque wrench do? The bolt didn't have a feeling like it stopped on something, but at the same time, if it did stop I most certainly don't feel like easy-outing that little bastard.

Thanks guys! Sorry for all the questions, I'm just paranoid I'm gonna screw it up.

TrailerHauler · Jun 3, 2011

sniper_101 said:
I don't own an inch-lbs torque wrench for the injector hold down bolts, so I'm slightly concerned about them. I tapped the injectors down lightly until I felt/heard them stop, then tightened the hold-down bolts until just over what I would consider "snug". About what I thought they were coming out. Didn't use any thread locker, as I didn't think it should need it (a few heat cycles and the bolts should get a bit "sticky").

Is that what most who don't have the proper torque wrench do? The bolt didn't have a feeling like it stopped on something, but at the same time, if it did stop I most certainly don't feel like easy-outing that little bastard.

Thanks guys! Sorry for all the questions, I'm just paranoid I'm gonna screw it up.

As long as you heard the injector clearly seat (sound change) when tapping it in you should be good as far as seating the injectors goes. If your worried put a straight edge across each bank of the injector solenoids.
Also I've only used the torque specs for the hold down bolts a handful of times, tighten them nice and tight, but not strip out the threads or snap the bolt tight. Just use good judgement tightening them if you don't have a torque wrench.

95powersmoker · Jun 3, 2011

sniper_101 said:
I don't own an inch-lbs torque wrench for the injector hold down bolts, so I'm slightly concerned about them. I tapped the injectors down lightly until I felt/heard them stop, then tightened the hold-down bolts until just over what I would consider "snug". About what I thought they were coming out. Didn't use any thread locker, as I didn't think it should need it (a few heat cycles and the bolts should get a bit "sticky").

Is that what most who don't have the proper torque wrench do? The bolt didn't have a feeling like it stopped on something, but at the same time, if it did stop I most certainly don't feel like easy-outing that little bastard.

Thanks guys! Sorry for all the questions, I'm just paranoid I'm gonna screw it up.

I used a ft/lb torque wrench on mine... just convert the inches to ft and torque em. Also, it is a good idea to run a level across the solenoids just to make sure...

sniper_101 · Jun 4, 2011

Well the truck runs, not great, but it runs.

Tunes I got: Stock (1), Economy (2), Heavy Tow (3), Daily (4), Hot (5), High Idle (6).

In all settings but 1 and 2 it lopes hard when returning to idle from a rev or pressing the clutch. The throttle is way too touchy in Daily and Hot to use with a manual. They both hardly smoke (I'm not looking to blow smoke, but with a stock turbo it should blow a decent amount). The stock and economy settings don't make more than 5-8lbs of boost, so getting to 60mph takes all day with no power. Also if it sits more than a half hour or so, it takes a couple extra seconds of cranking to fire. Seems like I can hear the fuel pump prime longer after turning the key on as well?

Any thoughts? I should maybe also post this in the BDP forum.

Edit - In the Daily and Hot tunes, there is certainly good power. I would guess more than my 140 on stock injectors from PHP, but I only used that tune twice lol.

HaysKSFirefighter · Jun 4, 2011

How many miles have you put down? It will idle better when the air gets out of the heads...believe me it takes a little while.

You should be running better then that though even with air in the lines...who's your tuner? I would talk to them because something aint right. Those sticks should light that charger quick!

Hell in my hot tune with Cale's tunes, stock sticks, and mods in sig it doesn't take anything to light mine and hold it at 28psi all the way through the gears.