My replacement engine won't start?

bruce

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Last one I did I cranked on it a while. Started getting pissed. Went back and topped the hpop res off and then she started chuggin
 

giannid

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you mean my oil doesn't have fuel in it? No it doesn't. Didn't hear the injectors crackle but I only tried starting from it the cab.
 

DEEZUZ

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Just please go crank this thing with charger on and good Batts for a solid minute
 

DEEZUZ

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And if it does start, let it run til op temp than go do a bunch of WOT runs to get the air out. If you don't you'll be fighting this for awhile
 

giannid

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I gave it a rest for the night and letting the batteries charge. I honestly think something is off with it though. I cranked the piss out of it today. Recharged the batteries 5 or 6 times and cranked them until they were dead.
 

giannid

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Well I let the batteries charge on fast rate charge for an hour and that gave me enough juice to crank for 3 30 second cranking sessions with a minute rest in between. This morning the batteries charged over night and I cranked it for a full minute with nothing. Thinking about swapping out the hpop with another one and see if it starts. Sucks not having a scan tool.
 

Strokersace

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Hook up all the ground wires back to the block?

Make sure the oil reservoir is completely topped off?

CTC asked if your fuel has oil in it... If your FUEL is good and clear, then don't worry about your injector orings.

How fast is it cranking?

A fast charge isn't going get you a good charge. Its the same as cell phones.
 

Arisley

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You really need a scan tool. If the HPOP does not build to 500 lbs., it will not start. If the voltage drops below 11 volts while cranking, it will not start.
 

DEEZUZ

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Do you have a mechanical gauge you can plumb into either cylinder head that at least will read 500psi?
 

giannid

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Well, had a guy come over today with a scan tool and the hpop was not making any pressure. Also, have two other codes out of the memory in the computer. Something about an open circuit in #8 and bank 2. Have the codes written in my shop and more to come. Put an old hpop I had on the shelf and it fired right up. Thing that suck is the pump I gave him to install was recently remanufactured and it ran fine on the truck. Not sure what could of happened to it from the time it was pulled off, resealed and put back on to make it not work. Thing that sucks is now I have to buy a new hpop as the one off the shelf was getting weak when it was pulled. The other one was a good working hpop and now it's dead. Any ideas? The ipr is the same as I just swapped them out.
 

JD3020

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Are you sure the gear was straight?

I had this same problem a couple months ago. My truck was running great, but was bored one night and decided to swap my 15* pump for a 17* i had from one of my engines. Got it all back together and cranked and cranked and cranked. I have a Scangauge so i can watch ICP and DC, it was like 80% DC and 20psi. I fought it and fought it and fought it. Swapped IPR's and ICP sensors, everything i could think of it but it would not build ICP. Got pissed so i swapped my 15* back on quick. Again no change. Finally decided to pop the HPOP bolt cover off and rigged up my phone to record while i cranked. Sure enough it wasn't spinning I had the bolt plenty tight, but i never actually looked to see if the gear was straight. I have no idea how it didn't make any noise or chew up anything, or how i never even checked to see if the gear was lined up good with the pump either time.
 

Arisley

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First thing I learned from my Dad, way back in the old days when we were working on old flat head six cylinder motors. Mechanic work involves Feel. If it don't feel right, trust your instincts. If you don't know how it goes together, you better dam sure pay attention to how it comes apart
 

giannid

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Well I didn't put it together, rosewood did But I'm sure the gear was straight when they put it on as the engine was on a stand and the reservoir was off.
 

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