Need some suggestions

[4cstr]

After having the truck plugged in for 24 hours...with a battery charger on for 12...I can't get the truck to start.

She turns over nice and fast...tach comes up about 200rpms or so...but no hint of catching. Fuel pressure comes up to 76 lbs...plus I am running winter diesel so I don't think its a gelled issue.

When I drove it into the shed...it was running fine. No hiccups or anything.

I am going to try and swap out the CPS later when I get home from work. Other than that...if the CPS doesn't do it...what else should I be looking at? I replaced the fuel bowl heater element a few months ago...so don't think that is it. I do have AE so I can monitor some things...

Thanks in advance
Dave

 

[4cstr]

Ok guys...more information.

I changed out the CPS with a new one...and still won't start. I checked all the fuses, checked the fuel in the bowl...and all looked ok.

When I go to start the truck...the tach comes up to around 200 rpms...and my oil pressure gauge also comes up into the normal area. Another thing I noticed is that there is not any smoke/haze/anything coming out of the exhaust when I try to start it. This is pointing me in the direction that my injectors are not firing. The valve cover harness on both sides look good.

If I am looking at the IDM...is there a way I can check it with my AE software? Is there anything else I can look at?

Thanks

 

[lincolnlocker]

Any codes?

 

[moose99psd]

sounds like possbily a ipr issue, whats duty cycle, and hpop pressure at the time of cranking. i believe it needs minimum of 450psi to fire.

 

[Tom S]

sounds like possbily a ipr issue, whats duty cycle, and hpop pressure at the time of cranking. i believe it needs minimum of 450psi to fire.

I agree that is something to watch. I would also run a buzz test.

 

[4cstr]

sounds like possbily a ipr issue, whats duty cycle, and hpop pressure at the time of cranking. i believe it needs minimum of 450psi to fire.

Can I see this with my AE? My hpop guage doesn't move while cranking...but it never has. It always jumps up about a second after the truck starts.

 

[moose99psd]

yes dave your AE should be able to show duty cycle and hpop pressure while cranking.

 

[caladash]

Double check all fuses again, and check for ICP while cranking as stated above. Should be labeled as injection control pressure on AE.

 

[4cstr]

Thanks guys. I think my IPR went Tango Uniform. When I hooked up my AE I had a bunch of "B" codes (1300, 1310, 1318, 1864) plus P1212(ICP lower than desired). I cleared them...then ran the buzz test. All 8 injectors buzzed fine. While cranking the truck...I got these values:
27-30 psi ICP while cranking
ICP Duty Cycle around 64%
ICP Volts 30

Do any of the vendors carry them?

 

[moose99psd]

umm yes 27-30 psi is no beuno.

 

[Denver]

Do you have any rats or rodents in your shed?

 

[4cstr]

Do you have any rats or rodents in your shed?

None that I have found. The poisen in the shed and the cats roaming around outside take care of that. After I changed the CPS I also checked all the connections to make sure they were tight (valve cover harness, ICP sensor, IPR, map sensor) and all was good.

I'm just amazed that it happened that fast. I drove the truck into the shed after bringing it home from the body shop...and the next time I try to start the truck the IPR is dead.

 

[95powersmoker]

I'm kind of on the same track as you... My SD takes 5-10 seconds of cranking to finally get up and over 500psi ICP to start the truck... I am going to try replacing the IPR and see if that changes anything...

One thing you should do is check to see if your HPOP res is draining down after it sits for >6 hours...

 

[4cstr]

The previous IPR I had did that...I had to crank the truck for 10 seconds or so before it finally caught. Replaced that IPR with a new IPR and life was good again.

Good idea on checking the res. Too freakin cold right now to do it (shed isn't heated) so will try next week when some warmer weather works its way in.

 

[bad12jr]

Could have a bad injector o ring. Check the bowl for discolored fuel as well. Mine acted almost the same with 2 new batteries a starter and cables so plenty of juice. Also it started fine one day and went to crap the next as well. I had 20 psi lpop and everything. My little cheap scanner wasn't reading accurately so I ruled the 150 psi reading out on the Hpop. Reliazed there was a problem when 8 qts of oil went missing in 15 miles with no oil under the truck. Opened the water drains on my filters ( e fuel ) and brown diesel.

Sent from my DROID X2 chillin somewhere

 

[moose99psd]

dave you can try cleaning the ipr too, see if it helps anyways.. i dont know how "fun" replacing the ipr is on your stealths.. ive got two in mine lol

 

[4cstr]

When I opened up the fuel bowl earlier the fuel looked fine. I was worried about gelling. Nick...I have the billet Stealth stage 1 single...so it isn't any harder than replacing the IPR on a stock hpop...


but it isn't any easier either LOL LOL LOL

 

[moose99psd]

oh how do you like the single? i love my big oil but.. man it takes up a whole lotta room!!

 

[4cstr]

oh how do you like the single? i love my big oil but.. man it takes up a whole lotta room!!

Performance wise...there really isnt much of a difference. But I like the fact there is less chance of leakage and the fact that it does indeed take up less space. And now that I need to change an IPR...I'm REALLY glad for that LOL

 

[4cstr]

Thanks to Jason at G Racing...he pointed me toward Oriellys...which I then checked out Advance. I have my new IPR coming...and with the free shipping and using "VISA" for the promo code...it took the final cost of the IPR down to under $140 with a year warranty. Thanks bunches Jason.