New boots=more smoke

[fifty]

On my 2002 7.3 with an IDM, AIS, full 4 inch MBRP, PHP 6 pos chip with stock everything else under the hood.

I had 80,000 mile stock boots, all sooted over, soft and oily. I replaced them with diesel sites boots...all of them... intercooler, spider everything.

Truck felt a little quicker down low (could be my imagination, could be real...but I have not calibrated my butt dyno in some time)

One thing I noticed, is now, if I romp on the go peddle in the 80 hp, it smokes way more than the 100hp ever did before the new boots...and the 100 hp smokes even more...well you get the idea.

I was kind of surprised. I would have assumed with sealed boots, less loss of boost and air, meant more air to burn fuel which would have equaled less smoke.

So here is the caveat for the questions about to be asked.

No I do not have gauges yet...the wife has cut off my spending except for maintainence parts (for the moment) So I dont have pre post boost numbers.

I have not been under the hood to look for leaks, I have been working like an animal since I put them in. Today is first day off in some time, and I just woke up...typing this over cereal...

And I do not have a boost leak detection check thingy....any links to one?

 

[Deputydog]

It sounds like you have a boost leak to me.

 

[fifty]

Yeah, that was what I was thinking. ANyone have a link to an easy way to check for leaks?

 

[cowboy_dan]

You can make a set of plugs then put them in where the pipes hook to the spyder. Tire valve on one plug, and a pressure gauge on the other plug. Then use a spray bottle of soapy water to find the leak.

If you don't get the clamp completely over the boot all the way around, it is possible for a portion of the boot to slide out from under the clamp and make a MAJOR leak.
Also, if the clamps aren't square and straight with the pipe, it could make a small leak.

 

[stackedstroker]

Or you had a bad leak before and now that you fixed it your map sensor is reading more boost and your truck is fueling more because its getting more air! That would explain why it seems to run better.

Just some more food for thought!

 

[Arisley]

Look at this one. You get the idea. PVC and a coupl fittings.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4287

 

[fifty]

Or you had a bad leak before and now that you fixed it your map sensor is reading more boost and your truck is fueling more because its getting more air! That would explain why it seems to run better.

Just some more food for thought!

That is what I am hoping. Just the extra smoke has me thinking leaks. I am about to get me butt off the couch and go pop the hood and see if there is any soot...and then the water soap test...

 

[moose99psd]

That is what I am hoping. Just the extra smoke has me thinking leaks. I am about to get me butt off the couch and go pop the hood and see if there is any soot...and then the water soap test...

where exactly are you expecting to see soot??

 

[TrailerHauler]

where exactly are you expecting to see soot??

Possible up pipe leak.

 

[fifty]

where exactly are you expecting to see soot??

Well, I am expecting, but hoping not to see soot near all of the new boots...That is if there is a leak still.

I tried the soap/water routine...the fan just blew too much air to really tell. Same thing with feeling around. I couldnt tell if there was a leak going from the spider to the intake manifolds.

Anyways, I got int there with a degreaser, some water and a rag and tried to clean as much old soot/grime as possible. A week or so driving and I will give it another look see and see if there are any new sooty areas.

Thats until I figure out/build the whole boost leak detector. Unless any one has one in the east bay of cali that wants to swing by for a few beers

 

[TrailerHauler]

Well, I am expecting, but hoping not to see soot near all of the new boots...That is if there is a leak still.

I tried the soap/water routine...the fan just blew too much air to really tell. Same thing with feeling around. I couldnt tell if there was a leak going from the spider to the intake manifolds.

Anyways, I got int there with a degreaser, some water and a rag and tried to clean as much old soot/grime as possible. A week or so driving and I will give it another look see and see if there are any new sooty areas.

Thats until I figure out/build the whole boost leak detector. Unless any one has one in the east bay of cali that wants to swing by for a few beers

The only place you will see soot is near the joints in the turbo up pipes. No where near any of your IC pipe boots should you see soot. And an up pipe leak will also affect your boost.

 

[fifty]

Sorry about that, I meant the oily mess cake that was on the old boots...

 

[TARM]

That will take time as that is from the oil mist from the CCV being blown out thru a leaky boot then dirt and grim sticking to that oil over time. That is what forms that oily sludgy goo around the stock boot joints.

 

[TrailerHauler]

:whs: that brings up another good point, did you make sure and clean the oil residue from the inside of the boots and around the pipes they clamp to, to ensure a tight leak free seal?

 

[moose99psd]

if it was me, id pull all the boots and pipes again, clean them up spotless and then reinstall everything using a bit of hairspray. and try again.

 

[norcaldiesel]

if it was me, id pull all the boots and pipes again, clean them up spotless and then reinstall everything using a bit of hairspray. and try again.

Hairspray is the key..

 

[tbolt]

New boots shouldn't be oily. I'm guessing it's either the map fueling better or a leak. just go back over everything and make sure the boots are positioned correctly and the clamps are tight and none are broken.

 

[lincolnlocker]

New boots shouldn't be oily. I'm guessing it's either the map fueling better or a leak. just go back over everything and make sure the boots are positioned correctly and the clamps are tight and none are broken.

Unless he didnt clean anything before he out the new boots on.

Op.. how close are you to fairfield cali?

 

[fifty]

I am down in concord... but to use your leak tester I can drive!!!!

 

[Tree Trimmer]

as long as you already have a air compressor with a built in line pressure regulator, you can make one for about $5.

assuming you have a stock turbo, or a turbo with a 4" inlet.

get a 3" pvc pipe cap, and a male air compressor fitting. drill and tap the end of the pipe cap to accept the air fitting. you now have a leak detector.

there is one clamp holding the rubber boot on the turbo. go towards the air filter one clamp and remove. install detector there in the rubber tube physically attached to the turbo. if you go out one more clamp, you will get into the tube that has the ccv in it. if you pressurize that tube, you will pressurize the crank case, and possibly blow out your main seals, creating a oily mess.

install the detector. adjust line pressure of the air comp down to approx 15 psi. plug in the air compressor to fitting. and listen. at 15 psi, if you have a leak, it will scream at you. that will pressurize the turbo housing, all the boots, ic pipes, plenums, everything intake related. if you do not hear leaks, then use the soapy water and spray all the boots. note, there is no engine fan blowing your soap around.

keep in mind that slow leaking internal to the motor is normal. it will also sound different. you always have a couple intake valves that are partially open, and any pressure that makes it past the pistons comes out the ccv, no harm no foul.