New Intake Manifolds

[Chrisf97305]

After 10 feet of 3/8 and 30 feet of 1/4 steel line. Here is what I came up with. I just have a few more lines to make than it time to do it all over again in stainless. Still have a few items on order.

 

[907DAVE]

Nice job!

I love that you kept the original engine cover.

 

[Chrisf97305]

Thanks
Its still going to be a wile before I will be in the truck.

 

[907DAVE]

My only concern is that the hard lines/fitting may crack after a while because of vibrations - and also might hinder you when attempting to make quick repair's....but as always it great to see something outside the box.

This type of approach is what keeps our sport progressing, and I thank you for that!

 

[Chrisreedtn]

Looks good, One thing I was thinking though...

Why dont you run a tad thinner, but wider and longer core, then use a Y/T at the front of it, and plumb it right from your turbos to the Y/T, That way you dont have the pressure loss in the front IC. It would probably get warm during a pull, but not super hot. Then after the pull you can stack ice bags on it to cool it back down.

And is your water inj pump strong enough to pump thru all that line and blocks and still achieve enough psi for proper atomization?

 

[Chrisf97305]

Looks good, One thing I was thinking though...

Why dont you run a tad thinner, but wider and longer core, then use a Y/T at the front of it, and plumb it right from your turbos to the Y/T, That way you dont have the pressure loss in the front IC. It would probably get warm during a pull, but not super hot. Then after the pull you can stack ice bags on it to cool it back down.

And is your water inj pump strong enough to pump thru all that line and blocks and still achieve enough psi for proper atomization?

Stacking ice after a pull is ok but it will not do anything wile you pull. If you watch gauges the temp will rise real fast. The front IC is mostly for running down the road. The Water to air is for pulling along with the water injection. Both the water to air and the water injection can also be used on the street.
As for the pump for the water injection system, I am running a 250psi pump. It will handle the demand.

 

[Chrisf97305]

My only concern is that the hard lines/fitting may crack after a while because of vibrations - and also might hinder you when attempting to make quick repair's....but as always it great to see something outside the box.

This type of approach is what keeps our sport progressing, and I thank you for that!

As far as cracking lines, that could be a problem. But by using SS lines should take the vibrations. Also some of the long runs will have some supports made.
The lines are built with repair in mind. To remove the valve covers all I have to do is to remove the intake pipe, oil and boost supply over the valve covers and the connector.
To remove the water to air cooler, remove the boost supply, water supply for the intercooler and the V band.
To remove the intake, remove the water lines at the injectors and the supply line in the middle of the intake. Unbolt the intake and pull out. The intake bolts are allen head bolts. Makes removing the bolts easy. All in all it will be easy to work on any part of the engine.
I can also have both turbos on the bench in less then a hour.

 

[Craig@MFI]

were did you get the material and tools to do those lines they look killer
very nice job

 

[Chrisf97305]

were did you get the material and tools to do those lines they look killer
very nice job

The material I bought local, from Fluid Connectors.
The flaring tool is from Ridgid, it will flare tubing from 3/16th to 3/4 inch.
The tubing bender is from Imperial, it will bend 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 tubing.
Could not find eather item local so I ordered on line.

 

[Dmstrucks02]

Nice job running all the lines, keep the pictures coming :thumbup:

 

[SSpeeDEMONSS]

As far as cracking lines, that could be a problem. But by using SS lines should take the vibrations. Also some of the long runs will have some supports made.

thinking about 12v fuel lines, mild has had better chances surviving the vibrations over stainless.

Garrett

 

[swamp_ratt]

thinking about 12v fuel lines, mild has had better chances surviving the vibrations over stainless.

Garrett

Interesting, i have talked to both haisley and scheids and for my p-pump 24v they recommended stainless lines for the vibration

 

[Rideracelivemx7]

as always chris, exellent work keep it up. can you do a litle explaining on the fuel block you have out back? trying to decipher it

 

[Chrisf97305]

It is built in 2 halves. Upper and Lower.
Lower block.
Oil supply for turbos. 2 1/4 lines facing twort the rear of engine.
Beside that is the fuel supply. 3 ports facing the rear of the block. Using 1 for fuel supply and 2 for fuel out.
Upper level.
Fuel return IN and Out.
Water Supply, IN and Out.
Have not drilled yet. This will be for nitrous. 3/8 in and 2 1/4 out.
It will be apart next week. will take some pictures then.

 

[Chrisf97305]

For those who like video's here is 1 for you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiNtqViouhE

 

[SDS97_7.3]

Are you going to have any hard lines pre-made before you drop the motor back as extras, that way they are ready to go if something were to happen?

 

[neverkickn]

What did you do with your 38r's?

 

[7.3psd97444]

That looks so good and so clean. Do you make all those hard lines yourself? If so what do you use to do it?

 

[Chrisf97305]

Are you going to have any hard lines pre-made before you drop the motor back as extras, that way they are ready to go if something were to happen?

The lines on the engine now are all mild steel.
Will be remaking all of them is stainless steel, So yes I will 1 each when done.

 

[Chrisf97305]

What did you do with your 38r's?

If you are talking about my old turbo, I was still running a stock turbo before I went to the twins.
I still have everything, so if I ever want to go back to stock I can.