oil bypass questions

gjoski515 · Mar 14, 2015

Ok completely rebuilt the motor and went with MDP'S oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit, does anyone run a low pressures oil gauge and what are your pressures? And now im having long crank times if the truck sits, anyone have and info for me

jimdawg185 · Mar 15, 2015

Depending on ambient temps, I would run 5-40 so it can build cold pressure quicker.

gjoski515 · Mar 15, 2015

Im loosing low pressure when it sits for any length of time

outacntrl · Mar 15, 2015

I think someone else was having the same issue and ended up taking the whole setup off because they couldn't get it figured out. Sounds like it needs a check valve somewhere to keep the cooler from bleeding off.

jimdawg185 · Mar 15, 2015

I don't think you are loosing pressure. The oil is higher in viscosity when its cooler and because of the longer it has to travel with the bypass its taking longer to build pressure. Running a high quality synthetic 5w40 will help the vis stay lower at lower temps because of its higher VI. I am having the same issue with my RCD bypass. It was worse in the winter, as its colder, and better when its warmer. I have a low pressure gauge so I can see whats happening in real time.

suprdzlduty · Mar 15, 2015

Not discounting what you said, but the problem seems to be the relocation of the oil cooler, rather than the viscosity of the oil. ..as said, a properly placed check valve or redesign of the system. A lot of plumbing to pressurize and the long cranks would be due to oil draining or siphoning back...and yes, others have had this same issue.

gjoski515 · Mar 15, 2015

so where would this check valve go, we are using dash 10 line, would a soft seated check, would it be on the discharge side the cooler?

jimdawg185 · Mar 15, 2015

There is a night and day difference in pressure build time with just a 10 degree C rise in temp. If it were a priming issue, temp would either not effect or make it worse not better. My truck is a 6.4 and this is obviously a 6.0, so there are differences in some of the oil path and volume. I know for a fact that vis is playing an issue, I do this kind of engineering for a living, and get paid very well to do it. But you won't know until you try. Just make sure you don't restrict volume too much, and make sure its a high quality seal in the valve. You don't need it coming apart and causing trouble down stream.

gjoski515 · Mar 15, 2015

what check valve do you recommend

gjoski515 · Mar 15, 2015

would you recommend the aeromotive check valves

Cutting-Edge Diesel · Mar 16, 2015

Do you have a thermostat in the system?

scparrish · Mar 16, 2015

I would look into a thermostat and leave the check valve out of it, jmo.

gjoski515 · Mar 16, 2015

So we will ned a thermostat, hmm now were to plum that in

ford rules · Mar 16, 2015

I was the one having the same issues, check valve won't work. Already tried that. I'd put a thermo bypass before the oil cooler on the supply side to bypass the cooler till it's warm, that in turn should keep from having to fill the entire oil cooler each time it sits. I was running 5w40 as well so the viscosity isn't the issue.
I'm not saying that will work for sure but it's the next thing I was gonna try.

gjoski515 · Mar 17, 2015

Did you end up going back to stock set up?

ford rules · Mar 17, 2015

Yea since I had to have the truck back on the road.

gjoski515 · Mar 18, 2015

Seeming like i may have to go back to stock set up, can a ford another motor

jimdawg185 · Mar 18, 2015

I am working on a bypass filtration unit that works as a kidney loop. You keep your factory cooler, and flip a switch when you want or need it running to give it more cooling. Keep that thing around and I can help you later on to mate it to my system.

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