96stacked&smoken
New member
Wow didint think one pint would help, i was wrong. Runs a lil smoother, has a lil more power, and helped a drivability issue i had when its cold. Gotta say this is good stuff.:thumbsup:
Oil Oil Oil
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kingranchstroker
Member
This is my most recent oil analysis from Blackstone running RCD 190/100s, Shell T6, and amsoil bypass oil filtration. Take a look! I will be comparing this sample to Mobil Delvac 5w-40 full synthetic next 10k miles.
View attachment 6909
View attachment 6909
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4.0l sahara
New member
I switched from 15w40 rotella to 5w40 synthetic. I was going to use extreme blue but couldn't find it the day i bought it so i just bought Mobil 1 and the truck loved it ran much better.
DocBar
New member
Wow. That red truck had a pretty sissy motor in it. I hope that guy learned how to build real motors. I keed I keed!!! :bowfast:
As far as oil goes, aren't these motors a lot like rifles. They'll tell you which ammo or oil they prefer and no two motors or rifles are alike? I'm currently changing brands every other oil change or so to see which my truck prefers.
I've ran regular and synthetic Rotella, Mobile 1 and Valvoline in mine and always have much rougher idles after hard runs. All brands, so far, have needed to be changed around 3K miles. Rotella regular at ~2500.
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
i believe that myself. i have ran rotella, delvac, motorcraft, kendal, and delo. all 15-40 dino and the only one that didnt smoke a little at idle is the delo, and had the best idle charicteristics and least amount of consumption between oci. only synthetic i have tried was amsoil and rotella t6. amsoil was the best thing i have used period but as much as i travel i hated trying to locate it while on the road.... the t6 wasnt worth a crap... the delo was better.
I sure hope they warranty there claims. That is crazy "The TBN is fine at 4.2." you TBN started at 11-12 and its broke down to a 4.2???
Total Base Number: The higher the TBN, the more effective it is in suspending wear-causing contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids over an extended period of time. And When the TBN is measured at 2mg KOH/g or less the lubricant is considered inadequate for engine protection, and is at risk for allowing corrosion to take place.[citation needed] Fuels containing a higher amount of sulfur will decrease the TBN sooner due to the increased formation of sulfuric acid.
This is from wikipedia and it had a better explanation then i could find anywhere. IMO change the oil before carnage!
kingranchstroker
Member
Yeah i dont plan on extending my odi any more than 10k like im at now, but im definitly gonna compare Mobil Delvac 5w-40 to the sample shown at the 10k interval because all i have been reading is that T6 is really junk oil compared to the other synthetics...
In a week or so ill sample the dekvac 15-40 I have now I'm just about 3000 miles on it and I know at 5000 its going back to AMSOIL just can't.decide between 5-40 or 10-30
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Homesteader
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So what is that you added to your oil,and where did you get it?
Kingrancher,
Blackstone is giving you some bad recommendations IMO. I can not believe they are telling you to go extend your OCI to 12K with oil like that.
One, you are 2x the average fuel contamination/dilution which is bad for a number of reasons.
Second, as 97F250PSD pointed out, your TBN has nosedived. Not that Rot is high to begin with. It starts at 10.6 on average for T6 and you have lost basically 2/3 of the TBN. On a general use that is the max limit and for people that care about longevity, which IMO is anyone willing to get UOAs, you want to stay in the 40% range as the max. Once you have used 60% of the TBN you need to be not going farther. The % lose of TBN in a number of ways is more a indicator than the actual total TBN numbers. In other words I would rather see a oil with maybe a lower beginning TBN drop a small amount than a oil that has a really high TBN but then drops way down even if that final TBN was still a bit higher than the other oil with a lower starting and final number but with a much small total drop. Total TBN is still important for a number of reasons but the drop % is telling you whats really going on.
Third, you have the viscosity which is indicated in this report by your cST 100C value. The shearing is bad which is a issue you tend to see with Rot T6. Your oil has dropped somewhere between 2-2.8 SAE levels or a loss of 20. It started at a SAE 40 (5w40) and you are now a mid SAE 20 That is too thin oil IMO for our injectors and engine. A single SAE drop is fine but once it gets close to hitting the bottom end of that level its time for action. If its a high quality REAL syn oil and certain other things are still well inline then the addition of certain additives can be used to restore the lost vis from shearing but this is not the case with Rot.
IMO the reason I think Rot T6 seems to shear much more than other Syn: They use cheap base oils and then get the viscosity thru using large amounts of viscosity modifier additives. These get used up very quickly thru shearing. The viscosity from high quality base oils is much more stable and shear resistant compared to the additives. I also think this is why you see these oils tend to drop 1/2 to 1 SAE level and then you will see the shearing rate drop way down. The first drop is the additives and then when it slows you are into the base oil stability.
One thing I noticed on your UOA is that you report no oil addition at all for 10,000 miles. Is this correct, you have not burned any oil at all in 10K miles or more correctly have not added any oil to the crank case as the two are not exactly the same thing? I would expect to see somewhere between 1-3 quarts used in the average 7.3 in 10K
Homesteader,
I think if I read it correctly its the Scaheffer's EP Moly Additive #132. This stuff is great stuff. I use it for install lube on engine parts as well as to combat shearing and other loses from extended OCI when I run my bypass filter(Luber Finer 4 quart). I am seeing how well these HE Donaldson Endurance full flow filters work. The one I am running holds an extra quart of oil over the stock filter and has a 15 mic absolute rating which is about 50% better than standard full flow filters which are around 30-35mic.
Blackstone is giving you some bad recommendations IMO. I can not believe they are telling you to go extend your OCI to 12K with oil like that.
One, you are 2x the average fuel contamination/dilution which is bad for a number of reasons.
Second, as 97F250PSD pointed out, your TBN has nosedived. Not that Rot is high to begin with. It starts at 10.6 on average for T6 and you have lost basically 2/3 of the TBN. On a general use that is the max limit and for people that care about longevity, which IMO is anyone willing to get UOAs, you want to stay in the 40% range as the max. Once you have used 60% of the TBN you need to be not going farther. The % lose of TBN in a number of ways is more a indicator than the actual total TBN numbers. In other words I would rather see a oil with maybe a lower beginning TBN drop a small amount than a oil that has a really high TBN but then drops way down even if that final TBN was still a bit higher than the other oil with a lower starting and final number but with a much small total drop. Total TBN is still important for a number of reasons but the drop % is telling you whats really going on.
Third, you have the viscosity which is indicated in this report by your cST 100C value. The shearing is bad which is a issue you tend to see with Rot T6. Your oil has dropped somewhere between 2-2.8 SAE levels or a loss of 20. It started at a SAE 40 (5w40) and you are now a mid SAE 20 That is too thin oil IMO for our injectors and engine. A single SAE drop is fine but once it gets close to hitting the bottom end of that level its time for action. If its a high quality REAL syn oil and certain other things are still well inline then the addition of certain additives can be used to restore the lost vis from shearing but this is not the case with Rot.
IMO the reason I think Rot T6 seems to shear much more than other Syn: They use cheap base oils and then get the viscosity thru using large amounts of viscosity modifier additives. These get used up very quickly thru shearing. The viscosity from high quality base oils is much more stable and shear resistant compared to the additives. I also think this is why you see these oils tend to drop 1/2 to 1 SAE level and then you will see the shearing rate drop way down. The first drop is the additives and then when it slows you are into the base oil stability.
One thing I noticed on your UOA is that you report no oil addition at all for 10,000 miles. Is this correct, you have not burned any oil at all in 10K miles or more correctly have not added any oil to the crank case as the two are not exactly the same thing? I would expect to see somewhere between 1-3 quarts used in the average 7.3 in 10K
Homesteader,
I think if I read it correctly its the Scaheffer's EP Moly Additive #132. This stuff is great stuff. I use it for install lube on engine parts as well as to combat shearing and other loses from extended OCI when I run my bypass filter(Luber Finer 4 quart). I am seeing how well these HE Donaldson Endurance full flow filters work. The one I am running holds an extra quart of oil over the stock filter and has a 15 mic absolute rating which is about 50% better than standard full flow filters which are around 30-35mic.
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96stacked&smoken
New member
Yeah its the scaheffers. Im gona add it from now on, very impressed.
kingranchstroker
Member
Yes its correct i havent added any oil in 10k miles but thats on a 6.0 not the 7.3. And i wasnt planning on extending any farther than 10k i dont feel safe running oil past that with the extreme abuse it takes in PSD's. I am def. changing over to Mobil Delvac 5w-40 synthetic for my next service! The fuel is coming from my large injectors... i knew there would be fuel in the oil because the truck hazes in every senario, just wont stop... i just figured it was due to the 8 hole nozzles im running with the 190/100s???:shrug:
Homesteader
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Tarm I will looking into the Scaheffer's EP Moly aditive #132. So this is just the additive to add to any engine oil? So which Schaffers's oil should I use?
Either 7000 or 9000. If you want to stay with a 15w40 go with 7000. If you want a 5w40 and 100% real syn go with 9000. Then if you want to see how things are going do a basic UOA from Schaeffers to see if there are any issue or when you actually need to change the oil or add the additive if everything else checks out and you want to handle the shearing.( Schaeffers has a test kit and their own lab, most dealers have them or they will send you one in the mail.) If you go to their site and look up the data articles they have for the various oils the data sheets will tell you the average where the various oils start with the different additives and viscosity etc... If you want to get really accurate you can send in a virgin sample of the oil as well that you used and then you can really know you have a accurate before and after.
Its not to much money. I get some free ones as I order a good amount for all our vehicles and some friends I serivce so I am not sure on the exact price currently.
Yes to the additive to any oil.
Its not to much money. I get some free ones as I order a good amount for all our vehicles and some friends I serivce so I am not sure on the exact price currently.
Yes to the additive to any oil.
sniper_101
New member
I find this interesting. I run BDP's tunes for my 160's and have run both Rotella 15/40 dino and 5/40 T6 with no change in the idle issues I have. May be worth trying something else I see . . .
Last time I checked, I don't think Schaeffers was available here, so I may have to try some Valvoline.
Last time I checked, I don't think Schaeffers was available here, so I may have to try some Valvoline.
Rustin
New member
I'm about to do an oil analysis through the local CAT dealer. Anybody have good experience with them? They just dropped their prices to $13.00 per analysis.
JD3020
Active member
You should notice a definite difference between the Rotella and Valvoline. Going from T6 to the regular Valvoline there was a noticeable difference. Think i went 5-6k on regular stuff and changed it last week, now running the Extreme duty full synthetic Valvoline and again there was a noticeable difference switching to it. My truck has always ran rough, but going to the Etreme Duty helped smooth it out and its not as choppy as before.
Not sure what i'm gonna do for my next change. Locally i can get Amsoil or Valvoline very easy, along with Cen-pe-co. Also not sure if i wanna try any additives or not.
powerSmokin
New member
Anyone use the Universal X200? Ordered some monday
