Oil preference?

[CATDiezel]

blah blah blah.. its a viscosity improver. specifically designed for a 7.3 to help limit oil sheer and to stabilize it... dont need a tets to know what it does.. been using it for a couple years as many others have too..

live life full throttle

LOL. Your a funny guy.

do you know what what a viscosity improver is? Clue
It doesn't improve the viscosity in the direction you think it does. Ok... I'll tell you. It keeps the molecular bonds of the oil molecules from binding with cold temperatures. However the downfall is they get thinner quicker and have a bit shorter life span.

this is ms why 10w30 is the best overall oil +/- well balanced for the climates of USA. And the average driver of a 6.7L.


And to answer your question I run 15w 40 non approved royal purple. Because I still have like 150 gallons left. Lol.

By non approved I mean it doesn't meet the latest and greatest api ratings. In of which I don't care because I'd deleted with no egr or dpf.

 

[lincolnlocker]

LOL. Your a funny guy.

do you know what what a viscosity improver is? Clue
It doesn't improve the viscosity in the direction you think it does. Ok... I'll tell you. It keeps the molecular bonds of the oil molecules from binding with cold temperatures. However the downfall is they get thinner quicker and have a bit shorter life span.

this is ms why 10w30 is the best overall oil +/- well balanced for the climates of USA. And the average driver of a 6.7L.


And to answer your question I run 15w 40 non approved royal purple. Because I still have like 150 gallons left. Lol.

By non approved I mean it doesn't meet the latest and greatest api ratings. In of which I don't care because I'd deleted with no egr or dpf.

10-4

live life full throttle

 

[Randy_270]

Starting off using synthetic 10w30 Motorcraft oil, truck ticked for the first 500ish miles then it was fairly quiet with the odd tick here and there. Usually started ticking again near time to change the oil.

Then used Rotella T6 5w40, truck never really stopped ticking but while driving even with the windows down it wasn't really noticeable even when stopped.

Then I tried Valvoline True Blue 5w40 synthetic and wow did my truck tick like crazy, even while curising through town with the windows down at slower speeds I could hear it ticking.

Then I tried Amsoil 5w30 Series 3000 full synthetic and a blob of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I don't know if it was the Amsoil or the Lucas Oil additive but when I fired up my truck, it ticked 3 times and quiet! This is the quietest my truck has ever been! I often forget my truck even has the tick! Next oil change I will try the Amsoil by itself and see if it was the oil or if it was the stabilizer. I would also like to add that the Series 3000 is not meant for non-DPF deleted truck.

 

[dsmracing1]

Starting off using synthetic 10w30 Motorcraft oil, truck ticked for the first 500ish miles then it was fairly quiet with the odd tick here and there. Usually started ticking again near time to change the oil.

Then used Rotella T6 5w40, truck never really stopped ticking but while driving even with the windows down it wasn't really noticeable even when stopped.

Then I tried Valvoline True Blue 5w40 synthetic and wow did my truck tick like crazy, even while curising through town with the windows down at slower speeds I could hear it ticking.

Then I tried Amsoil 5w30 Series 3000 full synthetic and a blob of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. I don't know if it was the Amsoil or the Lucas Oil additive but when I fired up my truck, it ticked 3 times and quiet! This is the quietest my truck has ever been! I often forget my truck even has the tick! Next oil change I will try the Amsoil by itself and see if it was the oil or if it was the stabilizer. I would also like to add that the Series 3000 is not meant for non-DPF deleted truck.

I'm going to try Amsoil out next time I change my oil here with the 5W40 stuff. I don't know if the 5W30 Series 3000 is meant for any truck after 2007 though.. I could be wrong but its not CJ-4 rated oil if that really makes a difference or not. I hate the tick and if that means changing oils and not using the oil that I can get for free from my shop then I will do so.

 

[Randy_270]

I'm going to try Amsoil out next time I change my oil here with the 5W40 stuff. I don't know if the 5W30 Series 3000 is meant for any truck after 2007 though.. I could be wrong but its not CJ-4 rated oil if that really makes a difference or not. I hate the tick and if that means changing oils and not using the oil that I can get for free from my shop then I will do so.

CJ-4 is just your emissions compliant rating. No DPF and EGR and you don't need CJ-4 oil, I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain that's how it works. I'd be interested in your results on the Amsoil 5w40 though.

 

[dsmracing1]

CJ-4 is just your emissions compliant rating. No DPF and EGR and you don't need CJ-4 oil, I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain that's how it works. I'd be interested in your results on the Amsoil 5w40 though.

Ahh I see. I have run it in my 12 cummins that I sold for the ford and it seemed to work good. I'm looking forward to trying this oil in the Ford for getting rid of that damn tick lol. I might try the 0W30 Synthetic Ford Oil too since they recommend it for our trucks...

 

[Randy_270]

I didn't even know Ford had a 0w30 for the diesels. If it works to stop the tick as well as the Amsoil does then I may go back to Motorcraft oil.

 

[dsmracing1]

I didn't even know Ford had a 0w30 for the diesels. If it works to stop the tick as well as the Amsoil does then I may go back to Motorcraft oil.

Exactly. I will be doing a little research for the next few oil changes just for the hell of it...

 

[Dzchey21]

CJ-4 is just your emissions compliant rating. No DPF and EGR and you don't need CJ-4 oil, I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain that's how it works. I'd be interested in your results on the Amsoil 5w40 though.

You are correct however the lower ash and everything that comes with the CJ4 rating is for the better on the end consumer side. It's better oil than previous. At least the conventional oils are. Better lubricity ect

 

[Randy_270]

You are correct however the lower ash and everything that comes with the CJ4 rating is for the better on the end consumer side. It's better oil than previous. At least the conventional oils are. Better lubricity ect

Thanks, that's good to know. I just checked Amsoil's website and didn't find the ash content listed but I did find that the total base number of that 5w30 was better than, or the same as, most of the CJ4 oils I looked at while giving me the easier cold starts and decreasing my warm up time.

While on the oil topic, I've noticed my EGT's don't cool off as quickly as they use to. Only thing that's changed is I went from the Rotella T6 5w40 to the Amsoil 5w30. Could it be the oil causing my truck to take longer than normal to cool off?

 

[CATDiezel]

5w30 would be optimal for the 6.7l in the winter for the northern folks. But 10w 30 would still function pretty well.

Remember it's still a 30 weight oil. The viscosity index improver is just that. An improver for colder temperatures to have a thinner viscosity at startup.

I'm not sure why they keep the knowledge of oil and how it works such a secret but they certainly do. Nobody has a clue what they are buying half of the time.

Or the fact that modern engines and oils need to be run at higher temperatures for the sake of the engine with tighter tolerances and higher heat loads with more thermal growth.


I don't care what performance company says you need cool oil. They are FLAT WRONG. optimal oil temperature ideally would be 212*F.

There may be .5% of people that need additional oil cooling capabilities on there trucks due to extreme sled pulling or drag racing at very high horsepower.

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

A 40w oil has not been necessary since the 90's at best.

10w30 or 5w30..... I guess Cat, Cummins, Ford, GM, and everyone else that factory fills with 10w30 is wrong...

Btw, who the fu*k wants to fill their truck with oil that looks like molasses at cold climates?


http://youtu.be/D6hPKtLCii4

Anyone who still wants to run 15w40?


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[Spatel23]

Im still a bit confused....So what should we use in the 6.7 ?

Ford manual says...
10w30 is the preferred viscosity for normal use.
It further states....
5w-40 or 15w-40 is recommended for severe duty or bio diesel applications.

My temperature range is never below 10 and the summer approaches 90+

I want to go Amsoil full synthetic. What kind of intervals should I change at ?

It is my DD, tows occasionally, maybe once a month.
I usually tow with the 7.3.

 

[Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto]

5w40 is ok if you really want to go synthetic. But for most all use it North America 10w30 is just fine.


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[lincolnlocker]

A 40w oil has not been necessary since the 90's at best.

10w30 or 5w30..... I guess Cat, Cummins, Ford, GM, and everyone else that factory fills with 10w30 is wrong...

Btw, who the fu*k wants to fill their truck with oil that looks like molasses at cold climates?


http://youtu.be/D6hPKtLCii4

Anyone who still wants to run 15w40?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

lol.. never heard of block heaters?. i have started my dually many mornings in Minnesota at -25 to -30 temps with delo 15-40 without being plugged in... only oil that i used that it would start on the first try without dying.. even beter then synthetic rotella... just saying is all... so for a 6.7, everyone can run whatever they feel like buying.. i will not run the 10-30 because it makes my truck tick like a sumbitch...

live life full throttle

 

[Spindrift]

Block heaters don't do a whole lot for cold oil. With temps that low, I'd have one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ZvxWl9xS6EmbvCx0uF2YgS3_s-bDUutKewRoCXBbw_wcB

 

[lincolnlocker]

Block heaters don't do a whole lot for cold oil. With temps that low, I'd have one of these:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...ZvxWl9xS6EmbvCx0uF2YgS3_s-bDUutKewRoCXBbw_wcB

if your block heater is working correctly it will..

live life full throttle

 

[Spindrift]

Please explain.

 

[CATDiezel]

Lincolnrocker.

You never started your truck in Minn. At -25F. With 40 weight oil.. sorry bud...


It was more like 140 weight oil!!! LOL.

Oil pressure at rod and main journals is around 3-4psi. Just because the gauge says 80psi on a cold start doesn't mean that's what's at the journals.

This is fun. The oil saga will continue forever!!

 

[lincolnlocker]

Lincolnrocker.

You never started your truck in Minn. At -25F. With 40 weight oil.. sorry bud...


It was more like 140 weight oil!!! LOL.

Oil pressure at rod and main journals is around 3-4psi. Just because the gauge says 80psi on a cold start doesn't mean that's what's at the journals.

This is fun. The oil saga will continue forever!!

true but it did..

and i deleted the 6.7 last night.

live life full throttle