Questions

Morfael · Dec 22, 2014

Ultimately I am looking for around 700 reliable hp out of my truck and then I'm going to call it quits. Unfortunately I don't know which parts I would need to get there so I am looking for some help.
My cab is currently up for studs and I have all new gaskets, etc for the heads to be pulled. While they are off and the cab is up I would like to be able to replace a few other things if I will need them.
Parts I have been thinking about are valve springs, pushrods, ported intake manifold, 6.0 exhaust manifolds. Are any of these parts really necessary for a reliable 700 hp? If not I would just prefer to save my money for transmission upgrades and slightly larger turbos.
Thanks in advance for the help.

thumbo88 · Dec 22, 2014

No limit intake full egr and dpf delete (if legal where you from) innovative diesel custom tunes and 5 inch exhaust will get you close a single 366 will help I heard of some people running a 475 on stock fuel I don't know how that will work but that's a good start

thumbo88 · Dec 22, 2014

And if you want a 2200 stall dpc tripple disk Torque converter I'll let go for 900 plus shipping

KYkickinit · Dec 22, 2014

Take everything he said throw a drop in atmo and some 15% nozzles and you should be real close.

ncollins64 · Dec 22, 2014

Reliable? Studs, springs, pushrods, 6.0 manis, up pipes, gate, intake mani, no limit intake, egr and dpf delete, exhaust, Gearhead tunes, and a 71,72, or 75 drop in atmo. I hit 680 hp with that set up and was very reliable. Could tow and travel like a dream. Just my experience

Morfael · Dec 22, 2014

I'm already fully deleted with exhaust and a mini max. I have a S&B intake but I do keep looking at the No Limit intake. Custom tunes are on the list, but I'd like to get the engine parts done first so I don't have to keep modifying tunes.

powerstrokinfirefighter · Dec 22, 2014

If you've got the money, I'd throw in some pistons. Extra insurance IMO

B585Ford · Dec 23, 2014

You should be able to get 650 to 680 HP on stock fuel (which could be backed up by a track times) or 700 on the generous dyno. None of the parts you mentioned are absolutely necessary to get there, but in my opinion they are all money well spent. While the heads and cab are off, I would replace the rockers and lifters for cheap insurance. After that, it's just trying to decide which route you want to go with the turbos, but all of the previously mentioned ones are good choices.

thumbo88 · Dec 23, 2014

Yes rockers valve springs and pushrods are nice becouse at that power level the rocker arm will fail ask me how I know

thumbo88 · Dec 23, 2014

Mini max tunes are a lot more costly that sct tunes IMO I would trade for a live wire and talk to Alex from innovative

sootie · Dec 23, 2014

ncollins64 said:
Reliable? Studs, springs, pushrods, 6.0 manis, up pipes, gate, intake mani, no limit intake, egr and dpf delete, exhaust, Gearhead tunes, and a 71,72, or 75 drop in atmo. I hit 680 hp with that set up and was very reliable. Could tow and travel like a dream. Just my experience

my experience also^^^^^

to nurse a few more ponies out of it, do the RCD 75/59 combo. that will put you where you want.

Jbird · Dec 23, 2014

Valve springs and push rods are must period in my book. Even with just a tune the rockers suck. Ask me how i know that one

B585Ford · Dec 23, 2014

thumbo88 said:
Mini max tunes are a lot more costly that sct tunes IMO I would trade for a live wire and talk to Alex from innovative

MM does have more tables available to modify so the tuning can be better.On stock fuel that is not a big deal… It is important on the bigger builds with dual fuelers, etc