Rear Bumper Tire Gate Build pic heavy

PWRstroke_smoke

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got some new toys for the 350, should have them on tomorrow or monday.
RiffRaff FRx & HPx
wicked wheel 2 & turbomaster wastegate controller

 

PWRstroke_smoke

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Nice. You will like the wheel. Woke my brothers truck up pretty good.

live life full throttle

thats good to hear, should be test driving it tomorrow before the big seacock niner game.

got the turbo out, taken apart, and re-assembled in 3.5 hours not my best time but it will do. Stock wheel still looked good, had a little oil residue in the turbo, no shaft play.
my tailgate is my work bench and Im working in an apartment parking spot, apartment living sucks when you do your own work, I cant wait to graduate.

will drop the turbo back in tommorow after i finish up the fuel rail crossover it was much more easy to install the FRx with the turbo out.

also not very impressed with how the dieselsite boots are holding up, the inner lining looks very rough never used anything to make them stick and im using the clamps they supplied. might be changing them out to riffraff boots.

also found out all 4 ball joints are shot, they are original stock joints except one on the driver side, they have three trips to alaska from california and countless trips up in the mountains of idaho. I just ordered dynatrac prosteer ball joints for replacement









 

backwoodsboy

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Where's your CCV routed? If it's still to the intake that would account for both the oil on the compressor side and your boots breaking down.
 

PWRstroke_smoke

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still on the intake and thats def where the oil is from. I need tonchange that, everyone swears by a bunch of differect vent kits so i guess I should just choose one. But the little bit of oil that was there should not be causing the dieselsite boots to fall apart.
 

backwoodsboy

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Which one are you running?

I've just got about 10' of 3/4" heater hose running from a 90* elbow on the dog-house, over the master cylinder, down along the frame rail and dumping behind the cab.
It isn't a fuel/oil rated hose but has lasted for ~3yrs just fine.
 

PWRstroke_smoke

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Light from Amazon:
Amazon.com: Eyourlife Off Road Extra 52" Light Bar 300W Flood Spot Combo Beam: Automotive

Bracket Kit from Ebay:
1999 2014 F250 F350 Superduty 50" and 52" LED Straight Light Bar Roof Mount | eBay

Rigid Wiring Harness (very nice quality and good price)
Amazon.com: Rigid Industries 40190 Wiring Harness for 40" to 50" Light Bar: Automotive

This plug allows you to still use the water tight deutsch connection that comes on the RIGID wiring harness:
Deutsch DTP 2 Pin Receptacle Connector Kit EZ Crimp Contacts MSD aem NASCAR | eBay

Rivet Nuts to attach light brackets. I had my local fastenal store order these in for me no shipping charges either.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/d...l3:"602457 Rivet Nuts"|~ ~|attrdiameter:310|~

6-1" 1/4-20 stainless pan head screws from local hardware store to mount light bracket.

Rivet nut crush tool: 1 1/2" 1/4-20 bolt, external serrated 1/4" star washer, and a 1/2" nut.

100% Silicon clear caulk: for the end caps on the the light bar. I removed them and put silicon caulking on the end caps then reinstalled. I also used silicon on the end cap screws and the rivet nuts.

I used the templates from these directions, it made it very easy to get them equally positioned on both sides. Be sure to print at 100% actual size or scale will be off on the templates:
http://www.kchilites.com/downloads/..._c50_led_system_installation_instructions.pdf

The whole project cost about $165

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PWRstroke_smoke

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its not too bad on the hood and winshield. the bracket sets the light pretty far back behind the windshield. I'll post some night pics in a couple days.
 

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