jdgleason
Active member
For the firewall, are you guys doing the interior or the exterior?
Sound Deadening 101: Know your products
- Thread starter jdc753
- Start date
Vader's Fury
Active member
Glad I found this. My entire cab is down to the sheet metal and this is one thing I def wanna do before I put it back together.
Smokin6-0
New member
My dash will be out so I guess I can do the whole thing. I would think that this should be done inside the cab, just like you would do the floor.
powerlifter405
Active member
Hmmm, what was the question?
"You had me" at your avatar :naughty:
Sorry to derail,
back to the avatar.
BTW, good info OP
powerlifter405
Active member
I did the interior as much as I could reach on my 02 w/ and it helped a lot. I used the CCF and more foil backed padding, got it all super cheap.
It was a good reduction but had I fully used the CLD and the MLV I think it would have turned out better.
If I can figure out how to get the dash off, COMPLETELY, I'd do every bit of exposed sheet metal. I traded PM's w/ someone who put 2-3 layers of just the CLD on his 99 CC. 3 on the floors and 2 on anything vertical and 2 on the ceiling. He mentioned the biggest noise was from behind the dash where he couldn't reach and all the windows.
1 thing to think about here, after having messed w/ a BMW, I saw the amount of materials they used. Lots of under coating, CLD all over the floor boards, doors, etc.. and what appeared to be MLV built into the carpet and it is very quite inside.
If money is an issue, and it is for me, I'll use CLD and MLV on my 08 this summer. I'll spray the insides of the doors as it was mentioned if you live in hotter climates, the cheaper butyl based products can sag and smell bad.
Tonka350
New member
going to sound dumb but what is the CLD or did I miss something?
Chad
Chad
Tonka350
New member
disregard LOL I found my answer already, I just missed it when I was reading.
jdgleason
Active member
Thats what I was afraid of- Not being able to reach up behind the dash. Im assuming that the sound barrier stuff isnt all that heat resistant either, so inside the engine bay wont help a whole lot either. I plan on using Raammat and they only sell two types of deadener. They have the thick vibration dampener, and the sound barrier.
powerlifter405
Active member
They have a nice little write up as well.
From what i've experienced in the past, read about more recently I've decided I will do this:
1) Use Raamat or a similar butyl product. On page one of this post, it calcuates to some of the best product density/dollar.
I have 2 10's infinity's pushed by Alpine digital M600 (excellent amp IMHO). The cab rattles and buzzes like a bee in a pop can.
2) Use a MLV to get rid of the higher and mid range noises. Put it all over the cab but be mindful of the thickness. Things will not want to bolt/clip together if to think or put in the wrong place/too close to mounting points.
The windows are the #1 problem of road noise (hard to fix that), followed the door, roof and floor. The floor has so much matting and seats on top of it, is the reason I've been told it is on the bottom list of those mentioned.
Your roof has a lot of air moving over it at a high rate of speed w/ just a thin head liner acting as the sound barrier.
I will use both products and the write up @ raamat is similar to how I've been instructed to perform the work. Sealing the doors makes a HUGE improvement and gets rid of a lot of road noise.
Really if you have the time and patience, gut the interior, give yourself a full weekend, been there done that. If you have subs anywhere, add extra mat product CLD near the areas of the sub, esp in the larger vehicles like ours. The extra sheetmetal is so thin and spans a larger area vs a sedan, it will help w/ the rattleing issues.
OH, and DONTuse the ice guard stuff from Homedepot. I have tried it in a pinch and it sucks. I have used a lot of it in my 08, and it will all come out (see bee in a pop can above). I know 1st hand, it just isnt' dense enough and isn't made for audio purposes.
http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html
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jdc753
New member
Glad you guys are finding this info helpful. If you have any specific questions you can always shoot me a PM and I will be glad to help you out.
I am hoping to add a little more into this one mainly for liquid deadeners and just a running list of all the products out there that I know of so you guys don't have to google it yourselves.
For $200 it will be tough to either complete 1 of the steps well, or complete several of them to a moderate level. I think the best you could do is getting some of the Fatmat or eDead (cheapest automotive products) and apply them in strategic locations (mostly where the metal is thinnest.) So like the outer door skin do a 100% coverage layer and maybe double up a say 16"x8" patch in the center of the skin. Then apply some around the transmission tunnel and firewall then if some leftover hit the rear wall and or roof or back doors (thinner metals) Then get as much coverage as you can with some ensolite, or you could actually use some jute (that under carpet padding) BUT understand that the jute WILL suck/hold moisture and won't be quite as effective as say ensolite or an MLV product.
I am hoping to add a little more into this one mainly for liquid deadeners and just a running list of all the products out there that I know of so you guys don't have to google it yourselves.
For $200 it will be tough to either complete 1 of the steps well, or complete several of them to a moderate level. I think the best you could do is getting some of the Fatmat or eDead (cheapest automotive products) and apply them in strategic locations (mostly where the metal is thinnest.) So like the outer door skin do a 100% coverage layer and maybe double up a say 16"x8" patch in the center of the skin. Then apply some around the transmission tunnel and firewall then if some leftover hit the rear wall and or roof or back doors (thinner metals) Then get as much coverage as you can with some ensolite, or you could actually use some jute (that under carpet padding) BUT understand that the jute WILL suck/hold moisture and won't be quite as effective as say ensolite or an MLV product.
Nice thread-- On the 5 spd, the factory shifter covers are worthless after they've been removed a few times. As a 30 min trial, cut up pieces of pipe insulation and lined the inside of the shifter. The noise reduction was quite noticable-- I also have factory rubber mat (vs carpet) and the truck is now almost as quiet as my inlaws 97 CCSB (w carpet and auto).
I got some composite vibration dampener material (don't recall brand name)from a buddy of mine who supplies to Daimler Truck . It has adhesive on one side and requires only 25-30% coverage. When I had the bed off, I put some on the top of the 5er plate under the bed and between the bed and frame pads. The low frequency noise at freeway speed has gone way down. He also wants it put on the inside of the doors, the firewall, floor, above the headliner and behind the rear seat below window. I just need the time...
Smokin6-0
New member
Well, I am not really limited to 200 but I was hoping I could make some impro ement for that amount. I will spend more if needed but I don't want to spend a bunch on a truck that is nothing more than a big beach buggy.
Paul@CP_Trucks
New member
I've got to deadened this.....because its loud as hell...
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
subed just so I can find it again!!
Paul@CP_Trucks
New member
Just ordered this
http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html
and this...
http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html
lets see how this works...
http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html
and this...
http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html
lets see how this works...
jdc753
New member
you should be plenty happy with that stuff Paul, it really is a great product for the money and the peel n stick ensolite will make installing much easier than having to use the spray adhesive them apply and work out wrinkles and all.
Once you get the large car quieted down you can work on getting AC in that thing
Once you get the large car quieted down you can work on getting AC in that thing
Paul@CP_Trucks
New member
you should be plenty happy with that stuff Paul, it really is a great product for the money and the peel n stick ensolite will make installing much easier than having to use the spray adhesive them apply and work out wrinkles and all.
Once you get the large car quieted down you can work on getting AC in that thing
Watcha talkin bout I have a 2 - 70 A/C in there...LOL
JD3020
Active member
Been doing a lot of reading to try and throw together a nice system on a college student budget and after seeing the peal-and-seal stuff thrown around a lot i've been thinking about using it, then i found this thread.
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125605-another-peel-seal-thread-but-not-what-you-think/
So now i'm re-thinking my plan all over again. LOL
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125605-another-peel-seal-thread-but-not-what-you-think/
So now i'm re-thinking my plan all over again. LOL
jdc753
New member
VERY nice find!!
Ad8 PRODIGY
New member
Yeah that PnS does sound very cheap. Go for the good stuff and be done
