Traction bars

[lengelhardt]

These are my traction bars that I have built. I don't want to weld to my axel and was wondering how other people have mounted them.

 

[B.Warning]

Why don't you want to weld to the axle?

 

[backwoodsboy]

Is there a reason you went with heim joints at both ends as opposed to a bushing at the frame end?

 

[lengelhardt]

I just don't welding to my axle I'll do It but don't want to. I went with the so I can tighten them up under the truck.

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[Jesse_01]

I think with bushings they would take some of the stress off of traction bars and brackets.

Some of the earlier model super duty's had lower shock brackets that bolted onto the axle.


This idea is pretty slick also. http://www.oneupoffroad.com/ouoproducts/tractionblocks.html That's what I would do.
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[cccj]

Those look like cheap Tractor Supply rod ends. They will rattle the day after you put them on and wear out within months. Spend the money on decent joints, either rubber bushings or quality name brand rod ends.

On another subject, if you understand axle wrap is a rotating motion of the axle tubes causing the leaf springs to form an S, then you realize the only correct way to control it is two points of contact on the axle.

 

[lengelhardt]

Actually you don't need two points of contact to control axle warp.

 

[sniper_101]

Those look like cheap Tractor Supply rod ends. They will rattle the day after you put them on and wear out within months. Spend the money on decent joints, either rubber bushings or quality name brand rod ends.

On another subject, if you understand axle wrap is a rotating motion of the axle tubes causing the leaf springs to form an S, then you realize the only correct way to control it is two points of contact on the axle.

To be fair; two points will completely eliminate wrap, but traction bars do a good job at removing the vast majority that the leaf allows.

I have to agree with the need for a rubber/poly bushing on one end. I think you'll find it transmitting a lot of harshness through the truck. Something like this from RuffStuff: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWCOMP.html and/or Johnny Joints: http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/categories.aspx?id=1493

 

[DZL JIM]

Those look like cheap Tractor Supply rod ends. They will rattle the day after you put them on and wear out within months.

The picture looks identical to the traction bars I built for my truck 10 years ago. They are still on the truck today and have never rattled or failed in any manner.
Yes, they are cheap tractor 3rd member bars, but you get what you pay for and I understand that. If I wanted to spend 10x as much I would have bought pre-made ones, but these simply work.

 

[Breaking Habits]

Those look like cheap Tractor Supply rod ends. They will rattle the day after you put them on and wear out within months. Spend the money on decent joints, either rubber bushings or quality name brand rod ends.

On another subject, if you understand axle wrap is a rotating motion of the axle tubes causing the leaf springs to form an S, then you realize the only correct way to control it is two points of contact on the axle.

Not true, a properly designed single bar can and will do it

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Not true, a properly designed single bar can and will do it

:whs: I do about 2 sets a week. Some 2" 1/4 wall DOM, creeper joints, and weld on brackets and that axle is going no where.

 

[lengelhardt]

me and my buddy have been running those ends for a traction bars for about 5 years now and they never have been a problem for us its just a matter of getting the location right and getting them set right.

 

[b2™]

:whs: I do about 2 sets a week. Some 2" 1/4 wall DOM, creeper joints, and weld on brackets and that axle is going no where.

Looking to build a set for my truck out of 2" 1/4. What size Heim joints do you use? Do you use Joints on both ends or just on the axle end?

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Looking to build a set for my truck out of 2" 1/4. What size Heim joints do you use? Do you use Joints on both ends or just on the axle end?

I don't use heims. I use these sized for 9/16" https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Creeper_Joint__1_-12_LH__TG__18mm_Single/i_0_0_4777/_110774-KIT.aspx

Joints on both ends with opposing directions on the threads. This way the bars can be easily adjusted to add preload.

 

[b2™]

Those are nice! You use the 1 or the 1.25? And did you thread the tubing itself?

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Those are nice! You use the 1 or the 1.25? And did you thread the tubing itself?

That's what too much work LOL I get these in 1.25" https://www.trail-gear.com/TG/Bung__Threaded_Tube_Adapter__1_-14_LH_x_1_5__ID_Tube/i_0_0_4470/_110124-1-KIT.aspx

 

[b2™]

Thanks Luke, You've been a big help! My buddy used weld on OEM shock brackets for the axle end, would that work with this set up or would you do something better?

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Thanks Luke, You've been a big help! My buddy used weld on OEM shock brackets for the axle end, would that work with this set up or would you do something better?

Not nearly wide enough. I have mine made by a local fab shop out of 1/4" plate. Shoot me a PM and I can get you setup with everything you need.

 

[cccj]

Not true, a properly designed single bar can and will do it

Only to a point will a single bar continue to be effective; mostly with HD leaf springs. Put some soft leaves in there (that actually flex) and the problem will no longer be masked.

...the only correct way to control it is two points of contact on the axle.

Just saying,

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

Only to a point will a single bar continue to be effective; mostly with HD leaf springs. Put some soft leaves in there (that actually flex) and the problem will no longer be masked.



Just saying,

That's why you mount to the bottom of the axle.