Truetrac help

stacked6.7 · Apr 17, 2016

Installed a Detroit truetrac a few weeks ago. Today I hauled a compact tractor on a goose neck and now it's clunking when I turn. The rear was fairly warm when I checked it. Has anyone else had issues hauling with a truetrac?

Highroller54 · Apr 17, 2016

Pulling anything should not hurt a true trac.

nighthawk285 · Apr 17, 2016

I've had mine in for a year now and no noise at all coming from it and have towed about 20k several times.

sqrlgtr · Apr 17, 2016

Mine been in for about a month r so and have not experienced anything like u have described.I've beat on mine pretty good after the fist week are so.i have only good things to say about my trutrack so far (knock on wood).sounds like it may have been set up to tight.just guessing though.something may be broke hope not for your sake.if you can go back and check your set up.
sqrlgtr

stacked6.7 · Apr 17, 2016

I'm going to check over everything soon. I'm running synthetic gear oil. Is that OK?. And what is the clearance for the backlash? Just want to make sure everything is correct.

sledhead_24_7 · Apr 17, 2016

A thought but do you need to use a additive for a clutch pack? If so did you add some?

I know limited slips need a additive to keep the clutch pack working properly.

stacked6.7 · Apr 17, 2016

I don't think the Eaton truetracs have clutches. It only seems to bind when I'm turning from a stop. Especially at a slight grade.

sqrlgtr · Apr 17, 2016

The tru-tracks dont have clutches and I'm pretty sure they recommend not useing syn.oil.I believe you can get specs off of thier web site..
sqrlgtr

ford_trck · Apr 17, 2016

I put mine in and ran cheap oil for break in purposes. I changed it about 3000 miles back to synthetic oil. About another 3000-5000 it STILL ran like a locker. After that it loosened up and acted like a limited slip.
I never had any loud noises or anything, but I never had the truck loaded during the break in, I just beat the crap out of my rear tires.

gfulton · Apr 18, 2016

I think you need an additive...Call Truetrac

jcain · Apr 18, 2016

Per your install post "So I got my truetrac in today! So far very happy with it. Install went OK. I was told when I ordered it that my rear end would have adjusters to center the locker... But it had shims. Thankfully the factory ones worked. If I knew it had shims I would have got spares or ordered a master kit. But I also should have paid attention when I had the cover off the first time. But it works so no harm no foul. Just a heads up to anyone else that does this!" . That might be coming back to haunt you now...

nighthawk285 · Apr 18, 2016

No additives are needed.....there's no reason for them since the TrueTrac uses gears to transfer the power, not clutches. Eaton does recommend not to use synthetic oil, just use conventional.

Did you set your backlash and preload correctly? Just re-using the stock shims may have not been good enough. I had assumed that you measured and had all of your specs correct but if that's not true then that could be part of what's causing your issue.

sqrlgtr · Apr 18, 2016

:whs::whs::whs:
sqrlgtr

Highroller54 · Apr 18, 2016

I would be pretty amazed if all you did was smashed it back together with the original shims and it was bang on lol.

stacked6.7 · Apr 18, 2016

Well I talked to Eaton today. And he explained that because I used the factory ring and pinion I should have matched the factory lash. Not realizing that I just made sure it was between 6-10 thousands like I had read. So I ordered a shim kit for 25$ and I'm just going to loosen it up a hair. Just to be clear I had zero issues driving empty. Rear end never got hot at all. Just when towing the other day for 6hrs and 13K behind the truck did it get hot and act up. But today when I drove it there was no issues.

stacked6.7 · Apr 18, 2016

Highroller54 said:
I would be pretty amazed if all you did was smashed it back together with the original shims and it was bang on lol.

That's basically what I did lol. And it honestly would have been fine had I not hauled anything.

stacked6.7 · Apr 22, 2016

So I installed the shim kit yesterday. My lash was at .007 and after the shims were in I set it to .010. Using the shim kit also made install much smoother. I lost about .002 on each side because that the closest I could get the shims to the factory ones, and I'm happy with how it went in. A snug fit, but not near as hard as when I used the factory's. Which may have been part of the problem before. I also took the locker apart and found no damage. But after reassembly I hooked to a small trailer loaded with my zero turn and I think it's still binding a little.