We have a problem with our back up work truck. It wouldn't start a couple days ago, while trying to figure out why, I checked the oil, it was about 1 gal. low. I am not exactly sure when the oil was changed last, it can only have a few thousand miles on it though. It does leak a few drops, the valley is dry, there is no oil in the fuel or coolant. I am leaning towards the turbo going bad, only thing I can think of. The compressor side has some oil residue/dirt on the bottom, making me think again that the turbo is going. The truck has 163,xxx miles on it. Am I way off? Any other thoughts? Any help is appreciated.
Using Oil
- Thread starter kramarj
- Start date
96OBS
New member
I've noticed the same thing on my dad 98 12v. I checked oil and it was 1gal low. I've seen a little but of oil leak on the turbo. I'm not sure though because this truck has 260xxx.
ryanss22
New member
very well could be the o-rings under the turbo are leaking if the valley is dry. wipe it all down with brake clean, add oil and check after a days use
jschildm
Member
There will be some oil residue in the intake/compressor from the CCV assuming it is still routed like it came from the factory. A couple common leak spots are turbo o-rings and oil cooler.
I know the o rings in the pedestal aren't leaking all of the oil, the oil would drip on the ground, and that isn't the case. I know of the common leaks, but there is no oil in the coolant which would point to the oil cooler. The oil on the turbo could very well be from the ccv, but our other truck has no oil residue on it. I am more leaning towards the bearing, or the o ring in the turbo itself going bad allowing oil to leak past them. There is a little play in the shaft side to side, but I am not sure if it is enough to replace the turbo, or if it is normal, I know I have read there is supposed to be some play, not sure how much "some" is though. I have also read that the injectors can leak internally when they get older. That is another possibility. I just don't want to replace the turbo and injectors though on a hunch and end up in the same boat.
superduty4x4
Member
Does it have a bunch of really pungent blue/white smoke when its cold?
Yup.
superduty4x4
Member
Mine is doing the same thing currently. No fuel in the oil or coolant that I've seen, I took the down pipe off the turbo and pulled it back and couldn't feel any oil in the down pipe. Could be injector o-rings possibly? I'd really like to find the cause/solution as well.
The only possible culprits to me are either the turbo or the injectors. It would be very expensive to change both and it not be either one. If it was anything else the oil would find it's way to the ground, at least I imagine it would. I keep thinking it is getting burned somehow.
Patrick Feeley
Member
Oil can get in the fuel system through one or more bad injector o-rings (into the rails and even back to the tanks by the return line). Just for an example, my 94 used 8 quarts in 150 miles (right after an oil change and it never used oil between changes to that point @ 175k). I never saw any smoke out the tailpipe when it happened (it seemed to run like always until the low oil level caused the engine to quit). The fuel that I did drain out of the filter bowl was so dark you could not see sun through it in a glass jar! The was only a few gallons in that fuel tank at the time. If one did have a fairly full tank the dilution would be far greater. Cheers!
But if the fuel in the bowl is clear, it wouldn't be going past the injector o rings correct? Or maybe it is getting burned vs. going back into the fuel rails? In your opinion would it be a wise choice to replace the injector o rings?
Patrick Feeley
Member
If they have never been changed with 260k on it, I would be inclined to (but that is just me). Its not that hard to do (it can be sort of time consuming the first time) and 8 o-ring kits should be less than $100. Take your time and follow the precautions to avoid hydrolocking the engine. Cheers!
Ok. It has 163k on it btw. You seem very knowledgeable, so if you would do it, it is probably worth while to do it. Thank you so much for the input.
superduty4x4
Member
The fuel in my fuel bowl is clear as well, no oil contamination.
I installed injectors (with new o-rings of course) about 15K ago and I'm about 90% I didn't nick an o-ring but who knows. I just did an oil change and I was a few quarts low so like you, I believe I'm burning extra oil somehow. I have noticed excess oil going through the intake Y so I'm wondering if there is a compressor side turbo seal failure somehow that is letting oil go through the turbo.
FYI, injector o-ring kits are around $8 per from Riffraff.
Do you have any play in your turbo?
superduty4x4
Member
Nothing excessive that I've noted, but I will check it again.
nossliw
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I would like to comment as well....my money is on the fact its your injector orings... I was loosing a gallon every 35 miles... I rebuilt the turbo shortly before this problem started to occur and I thought I may have screwed up something, pulled it apart two more times...everything was as the way it should be, turned out to be injector orings.
One easy way to tell if its one or the other is the fact most turbos will start smoking a white when the truck is warm...not cold. If hard starts or no starts are an issue when cold this can also be a sign of oring failure. The only issue is you won't know they are bad till you pull the valve covers and check yourself. It is a fairly easy job and only require a few hand tools and a precise torque wrench.
I had issue with my truck that almost drove me to selling it... here is a thread that highlights all the issues I was having... I'm not going to retype it over here....
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1203076-niks-97-350-build-thread-9.html
One easy way to tell if its one or the other is the fact most turbos will start smoking a white when the truck is warm...not cold. If hard starts or no starts are an issue when cold this can also be a sign of oring failure. The only issue is you won't know they are bad till you pull the valve covers and check yourself. It is a fairly easy job and only require a few hand tools and a precise torque wrench.
I had issue with my truck that almost drove me to selling it... here is a thread that highlights all the issues I was having... I'm not going to retype it over here....
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1203076-niks-97-350-build-thread-9.html
