Vacuum Pump Service Kit Idea - Survey

[Racer X]

Today my vacuum pump kicked the bucket. riest:


While changing it, a plan for a "better idea than the OEM design" automotive grade modification kit went on the drawing board.

Currently a pulley remover and installer tool set is needed before all the hold down bolts can be removed from the old pump. The procedure is then repeated on the new pump just to transfer the bolts.


As my Dad would say when it was fashionable to: "Who in the hel* makes this? That design was created by a team of educated idiots who never had to service what they make for Ford." LOL

​

:
If we can manufacture a modification kit for less than $15 to make changing the vacuum pump a 10 minute job requiring no special tools! : Would there be any interest in it ??? ......


Please post intelligent yes or no replies, opinions and any input to my question only. This is just to determine demand. Thank you!



-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[zilla68]

yes, I"m in, I had to do mine a while back and was amazed at how hard it was, it was a real pain in the rear.

good idea

 

[SDS97_7.3]

Seems like a good idea. But not worth it for me. I can already swap them in 10-15 minutes.

 

[old man dave]

Takes me more than 10 minutes just to press the pulley back on. I like it.

 

[purpleheart350]

I can do it in 15. But for those that haven't done it it can take awhile so it could help them. I think some one just needs to make a better pump. Now that I would invest in.

 

[Wes Lewis]

I got the hold down bolts off with the pulley still on. Was a little tight but it worked. The. Swapped pulleys on the bench from Pump to pump n reinstalled.

What kind of modification kit are you thinking about?

A polished aluminum pulley might look nice..:walkin:

 

[PsRumors]

How often are pumps being changed on a single vehicle? My original pump is still working good.

 

[purpleheart350]

I have had my truck for two years and I am going on my third one

 

[Wes Lewis]

1st one went at 70k. That was only a few months ago.

Not to hi jack the thread but what pumps are you guys using that to bad this often. I got mine from autozone and my buddy with a 7.3 said to keep the receipt handy bc it will go bad before the year is up.

Napa any better? I get mostly everything from there

 

[zilla68]

i've had one from napa, one from oreilly's and the oem one, oem lasted longest, oreilly's lasted about 4 years, but in that 4 years it only got drove about 3500 miles

 

[SDS97_7.3]

4 pumps 4 years, both new and reman several different brands. This last one is lasting the longest, little over a year now. Came from a local auto parts store can't remember the brand. Takes me longer to go pick one up than it does to swap it out.

 

[Racer X]

Been through 4 replacements on one truck, 3 each on the others we own.

A better pump too would be great, but the investment it would require would take a long time just to reach the break even point. Not likely to appeal to potential investors.

The existing design's most common failure points are the pump and diaphragm drives. The diaphragm drive is made of soft metal. As it wears, the metal grit contaminates the pump drive needle bearing, which eventually causes failure. A simple hardened cam lobe shaped internal pump drive and hardened diaphragm drive would fix both weak points. An added grease fitting would provide the lube needed.

Some failed pumps just wore the drives down until they couldn't produce vacuum. None of the pumps we have replaced including our own actually had a bad diaphragm, except pumps that had the housing hacked/cut by an installer.

Some pumps do have a bolt style that allows 2 bolts to be removed w/o pulley removal, others have none that can be removed. Haven't seen any that allow all 3 bolts to be removed that didn't have housings that weren't hacked/cut by an installer. Those all lasted less than 20,000 miles, probably from heat damage to diaphragms and bearings from the last installer's hacking/cutting of the housing.

There is a better way w/o damage to save time line mechanics....

If we make this, it will be made entirely in the USA unlike most of the "Help" brand's line of products.

Thanks for the response to date. Keep it coming! :toast:​

opcorn:

 

[Wes Lewis]

I couldn't remove all of mine at once, I think i used a ratcheting wrench and loosened them a little at a time and slid the pump forward with it.

I like your grease fitting idea though.

The pump I had locked up while I was driving and snapped the serpentine belt. in the rain of course lol:cursing:

 

[MossBack]

I would buy it!

I have gone through 3 pumps first one went at 126k second was 138k (autozone) and at 150k I switched to a ford oem with new pulley and it is still fine at 187k although it seems like the outside has oil on it and I think that happened before the famous "tick tick" then boom.

My idea was a rebuild with SKF bearings and grease as it seems the OEM was SKF.

I keep a new belt and pump with pulley autozone one behind the seat.

 

[Racer X]

I would buy it!

I have gone through 3 pumps first one went at 126k second was 138k (autozone) and at 150k I switched to a ford oem with new pulley and it is still fine at 187k although it seems like the outside has oil on it and I think that happened before the famous "tick tick" then boom.

My idea was a rebuild with SKF bearings and grease as it seems the OEM was SKF.

I keep a new belt and pump with pulley autozone one behind the seat.

Good feedback! :thumbup:

I couldn't remove all of mine at once, I think i used a ratcheting wrench and loosened them a little at a time and slid the pump forward with it.

I like your grease fitting idea though.

The pump I had locked up while I was driving and snapped the serpentine belt. in the rain of course lol:cursing:

Been there too! :cursing: LOL It's not worth buying the premium replacement belt for $63. It can't survive a locked up pump pulley or any of the other pulleys if they locked up. You can get 2 non premium belts for less and keep 1 or an old belt on board as a spare.

A grease fitting in the rear would make the existing pump and diaphragm drives last longer on a new pump, if it were added without contamination from drilling and tapping. :thumbup:

 

[strokin'_tatsch]

3 pumps in 5 years for me. I don't have any problem changing my pump. Only takes 10-15 minutes the way it's designed. Like has already been said, we need a more reliable pump... We don't really need it to be easier to change, just make it so we don't have to change it all the time.. I've been seriously thinking about going to the electric vacuum pump from the SD's..

 

[Tom S]

3 pumps in 5 years for me. I don't have any problem changing my pump. Only takes 10-15 minutes the way it's designed. Like has already been said, we need a more reliable pump... We don't really need it to be easier to change, just make it so we don't have to change it all the time.. I've been seriously thinking about going to the electric vacuum pump from the SD's..

I assume those do not have sufficient capacity.

 

[MossBack]

I assume those do not have sufficient capacity.

Iirc those SD electric pumps runs front hubs and vents. Hydroboost for brakes. I have considered a pump used in high compression race motors but still wouldn't want to put my life or anybody else's on it working.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Racer X]

I assume those do not have sufficient capacity.

Tom, what's your opinion on taking a vacuum gauge reading from both pumps to find out?

The E-series used the same basic belt driven pump as these trucks through the 2000 model year. The 99 Super Duty F series trucks have the same part number for the pump as OBS trucks. There are 2 different diaphragms used. One has a molded rubber tube the other doesn't.

Based on the responses, I think their could have been different vendors supplying the pumps with slight housing or pulley variations. Or the 10 minute replacements are on trucks without air conditioning. Perhaps a combination of both.

Off topic:
In 1987 Lincoln began using an electric pump with accumulator for the 4 wheel anti lock power disc brakes on the Mark VII. The Mark VII LSC models had the 5.0 liter HO roller cam V8 used in the Mustang GT. Engine vacuum was available for a vacuum brake booster and one was used on prior Mark VII models and in the Mustang GT's. The Mark VII used the electric pump for brake boost for at least 7 model years. It worked trouble free for 250,000 miles for me. Not sure if Mark VIII's continued it or not. A rebuilt pump was $1600 @ Carquest when I last priced one in 2008. :doh: Due to the rebuilt pumps cost, enthusiasts of these cars either get used pumps or convert them to vacuum boosted brakes. The LSC Mark VII was the short name for the Luxury Sports Coupe model. It lived up to it's name. With 4 wheel anti lock power disc brakes, they also had electric air pumps for computer controlled air suspensions that adjusted on the fly for precise handling, 140 mph speed rated 16" wheels & tires and they would beat Mustang GT's in road course racing. The Mustang GT's had the weight advantage on the drag strip as the Mark VII was a larger and heavier car, slightly larger than the Thunderbird. They would beat the Thunderbird Super Coupes on road courses and drag strips despite the T Birds weight advantage.

 

[Racer X]

If an electric pump doesn't supply vacuum to an extra reservior tank for the brake booster, a comparision with a vacuum gauge on both pumps can be used safely to determine if it's adequete.

Strokin'_tatsch, whether it is a more durable pump or not is another matter.
I can understand it's easy for non sponsor members not to realize the OEM pumps are legally protected by patents, when wanting better products... :shocked:

To build a better pump, it would have to be significantly different enough not to infringe on the OEM patent. Otherwise, it would be asking for legal troubles... A new pump would be a risky venture for a limited and shrinking market to begin with. Been there done that with our Torque Converters. That was known going in, but had the demand to make better designs worth it.
My perspective will always be from an entrepreneur's when the topic is about making a product. It will always be different than a regular members on most topics. Regular members can post care free, while sponsors can't always. One example: Some sponsors can't risk their entire livelihood's and businesses by posting or providing copyrighted or privileged material, information or specifications some members and some potential customers will ask for.

I thank all of you for your replies, input and feedback. :fordoval: