What hp will it make?

TARM

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As a rough baseline guide with stock rods, from what I have seen, keep peak TQ under 1200ftlb and try to have it ramp up more gradually. There is more to it and seen the dyno CP data Dave@ Swamps has been nice enough to post up and share the combustion event and how it effects CP, more complex but you do have a basic relation of TQ to Cylinder pressure and the stress on the bottom end and twisting/tq of the block thus making bad things happen.

Keep TQ@ 1200 or under and stretch the power band into the higher rpms as much as possible would be how I would go about it. Nice thing with a waste gate is you can also tune it so the boost does not hit like a ton of bricks all at once but have it bleed a bit to have it come on smoother and keep the traction better. Especially true with a smaller ratio turbine setup

I have never personally Nos a diesel (only gasser) but based on what I have seen I would not NOS a turbo that was setup to have decent street response in terms of turbine wheel and housing size without a gate. It jacks up exhaust/backpressure and can tear up the turbo.
 

2000wa250

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Those sticks will be seriously detuned, but should be fun! Keep the power up.in the rpms and she'll live.
 

Blowby

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With Swamp's 400/400's you can keep the HP at a steady climb like Tarm said and TQ at a safe level for any PMR motor as well.

photo36.jpg
 

Timmy

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As a rough baseline guide with stock rods, from what I have seen, keep peak TQ under 1200ftlb and try to have it ramp up more gradually. There is more to it and seen the dyno CP data Dave@ Swamps has been nice enough to post up and share the combustion event and how it effects CP, more complex but you do have a basic relation of TQ to Cylinder pressure and the stress on the bottom end and twisting/tq of the block thus making bad things happen.

Keep TQ@ 1200 or under and stretch the power band into the higher rpms as much as possible would be how I would go about it. Nice thing with a waste gate is you can also tune it so the boost does not hit like a ton of bricks all at once but have it bleed a bit to have it come on smoother and keep the traction better. Especially true with a smaller ratio turbine setup

I have never personally Nos a diesel (only gasser) but based on what I have seen I would not NOS a turbo that was setup to have decent street response in terms of turbine wheel and housing size without a gate. It jacks up exhaust/backpressure and can tear up the turbo.

What is a good quality wastegate to run?

Those sticks will be seriously detuned, but should be fun! Keep the power up.in the rpms and she'll live.

What approximately is the rpm range that I should make power to keep the rods safe? 2000-4000?
 

emev0l

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How streetable would the setup be with a s475 and .90 exhaust housing replacing the s468?

That's a good question, it's a real big single, usually only used as a single on pulling trucks or in a compound setup with a 63mm turbo.

It's doable, it'll make all sorts of power

The GTX4202r is a BB turbo and will spool faster, that should be plenty of air to blow the rods outta the motor.
 
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buschpoweredstroker

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My buddy that took my 472 to use with his 250/200s has a stick in his truck also. He has a hard time staying on top of the turbo when he's towing. It's definitely doable, but you have to run higher rpms than you normally would. Also, once that turbo lights and decides it wants to go, you'll be hard pressed to keep up with it shifting because it will pull all the way through each gear in what seems like a half a second.
 

TyCorr

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My buddy that took my 472 to use with his 250/200s has a stick in his truck also. He has a hard time staying on top of the turbo when he's towing. It's definitely doable, but you have to run higher rpms than you normally would. Also, once that turbo lights and decides it wants to go, you'll be hard pressed to keep up with it shifting because it will pull all the way through each gear in what seems like a half a second.

Yea, there is no free lunch in those manuals. You're either building boost in peels or trying to stop it from doing so.
 

Timmy

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My buddy that took my 472 to use with his 250/200s has a stick in his truck also. He has a hard time staying on top of the turbo when he's towing. It's definitely doable, but you have to run higher rpms than you normally would. Also, once that turbo lights and decides it wants to go, you'll be hard pressed to keep up with it shifting because it will pull all the way through each gear in what seems like a half a second.

Yea, there is no free lunch in those manuals. You're either building boost in peels or trying to stop it from doing so.

Tearing it all apart tomorrow, hope to have it back together in a week
 

Timmy

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Well finally putting this thing all together. Made a couple changes to the setup. Got a gated t4 up pipe from irate, and a gen 3. Got any idea what the hp will be now and whose tunes to run to get it to idle halfway decent? Truck will be a weekend warrior, also what spring should I run in the waste gate for the street? Thanks
 

mandkole

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spend the money for some live tune time and they can probably let you do a dyno pull also. Both questions answered. Swamps is pretty close to you.
 

littleredstroker

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The problem with live tuning for me is they are all 20hr drive one way, away from me.. Im sure it helps but I wish it was feasable for all of us.

By the time I figure in fuel a place to stay Assuming I drive straight through, stay 1 night, and drive back after the tuning session ( which takes a few hours im sure) figuring in time off of work im looking at $2000 easy, not counting any extra $ for the actual tuning session.
I can buy a couple running FR motors for 2k...
 
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97f350stroker

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The problem with live tuning for me is they are all 20hr drive one way, away from me.. Im sure it helps but I wish it was feasable for all of us.

By the time I figure in fuel a place to stay Assuming I drive straight through, stay 1 night, and drive back after the tuning session ( which takes a few hours im sure) figuring in time off of work im looking at $2000 easy, not counting any extra $ for the actual tuning session.
I can buy a couple running FR motors for 2k...

Yea that makes it pretty tough. I guess as long as you're knowledgeable enough to communicate the correct things to your tuner it wouldn't be too bad with the hydra. Trying to wait for tuning corrections with a ts would get old pretty quick
 

TyCorr

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If you have two or three it isnt bad.

Send two and tell them, have #3 ready and ship it if I need it.
 

TyCorr

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Bill Cohron was always good about emailing new tunes any time if you had a burner or an issue.
 

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