What to do?

[Dustin F2504x4]

I just got me a forged rod 7.3 engine to swap out the pmr engine in my 01 f-250. My question is what should I do to it before I drop it in, it has set for alittle while. What should I do to it while I am swaping all my 01 accessories onto the engine, valve seals, oil pump, what else?

Thanks Dustin

 

[Whytry]

Headstuds valve springs pushrods if you have the money. Makes things a lot easier with the motor out. Other than that maybe bellowed up pipes. If you are just talking about stock parts then just what it needs to run.

 

[Dustin F2504x4]

That what I had mind headstud are definatly going in on the stand any other maintenance that needs to be done while its on the stand?

 

[Whytry]

Don't lift the head. Other than that you will be ok I think. What are your goals? Doing my fuel system the 2 fittings in the rear of the heads sucked getting out in the truck.

 

[Dustin F2504x4]

I plan on running 250cc/100 injector. Probably should do the fuel system while its out.
I might loctite the piston cooling jets also while I got the oil pan off

 

[Magnum PD]

What benefits are to loctiting the cooling jets?

 

[Whytry]

Good idea some headers would be awesome if you have the money lol other than that you should be good.

 

[Dustin F2504x4]

What benefits are to loctiting the cooling jets?

I have seen in other threads where the piston cooling jet bolt have backed out, causing the cooling jet to drop to the oil pan, destroying the piston

 

[rc4wd]

When I put my motor in I swapped all external gaskets except head gaskets but then six months later I pulled my cab and put in headstuds, valve springs, and pushrods so I would suggest if you can afford it go on and put all that into it while you got it apart.

 

[SkySki Jason]

I have seen in other threads where the piston cooling jet bolt have backed out, causing the cooling jet to drop to the oil pan, destroying the piston

My understanding is this is usually only a problem if the jets have been REMOVED for some reason - and IIRC, the only way to insure they don't come out is to tack-weld them in place. So, either leave'em alone or weld them.

Definitely studs, springs, pushrods, injectors, etc - while this can be done in truck, I am convinced it will take me less time (DEFINITELY less aggravation) to pull the engine for this work. There are better mechanics than me, but in the time it'll take me to do #7 and #8 valve springs in truck - I can prolly do all 8 on the stand.

I highly recommend Motorcraft TA-31 sealant on the oil pan. Pay particular attention to the area below rear main seal where the sealant tends to get squished out as the pan goes on - this is a common leak point. Might as well replace rear main seal too. :shrug:

Change ALL of the HPO and fuel system o-rings/vibra-loc sleeves and rebuild the water drain valve. I also think new VC gaskets and UVCH's are a good investment when you are that far in. (do the $0.50 mod too!!)
http://www.dieselorings.com/index.php?page=details&prod=55&cat=17&group=6

I would strongly consider a new LPOP and water pump. You might consider 'rebuilding' the oil cooler too - again, its just EASY with engine out and not expensive.

How about plenum inserts and t-bar clamps for the heads?
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/m...e_Code=RRD&Product_Code=RDPPRI&Category_Code=

 

[SkySki Jason]

Oh yeah - CLEAN or replace EBP sensor tube!!

What about EBPV delete/pedestal mod? :shrug:

Have you thought about ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housing? Turbo X requires no baking and $45 worth should do a couple engine's worth...
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-exhaust-system-coatings.html

I did this to mine to keep oil/fuel from contaminating my clutch ever again! (not an issue for slushboxes)

and just for the hell of it, this is what it should look like before sticking it back in truck!

 

[Dustin F2504x4]

Looks good I cant wait to be droping the forged rod engine in my truck. Got some work to do before thanks for the useful info

 

[golfer]

***RUN A COMPRESSION TEST (regardless of miles)

on any used engine before you invest your time in swapping it in...

 

[Dustin F2504x4]

Can a compression test be done on the stand? Is there any special tools that I will need to run a test. I will have to swap my injectors out of my truck to put in the engine on the stand

 

[Layson]

Oh yeah - CLEAN or replace EBP sensor tube!!

What about EBPV delete/pedestal mod? :shrug:

Have you thought about ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo exhaust housing? Turbo X requires no baking and $45 worth should do a couple engine's worth...
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-exhaust-system-coatings.html

I did this to mine to keep oil/fuel from contaminating my clutch ever again! (not an issue for slushboxes)

and just for the hell of it, this is what it should look like before sticking it back in truck!

Nice, you even got the turbo installed prior to installing motor. Have yet for that to work out for me... Did you have to do anything special?

 

[SkySki Jason]

Nice, you even got the turbo installed prior to installing motor. Have yet for that to work out for me... Did you have to do anything special?

Just jacked the front of cab up a few inches after removing all but the rear cab bolts... Actually, the biggest issue was lining up with ZF6 - since the input shaft has to slide so far in, I think it takes better 'alignment' to re-install engine than 4R100. Basically the cab had to come up so the angle of trans was high enough to get input shaft thru clutch and into pilot bearing.

Somehow, I did this by myself the first time! :badidea: I kept picturing them finding my body after a few days - pinched between engine and frame and my cell phone just out of reach... :fustrate:

After pulling a couple engines now I'm pretty sure I can have one out in under 4hrs without help. I plan to pull the X engine later this year for studs, springs, injectors, etc. The 'extra time' to yank engine is well worth the lack of frustration (and lack of backache!) for me.

Fwiw, there is no need to pull hood or header panel/condensor, etc and if you'll set A/C compressor off to the side - ya don't even have to evacuate/recharge A/C system!!

That reminds me - engine out is a GREAT time to put a ball valve on the heater core supply hose and get COOOOLDER A/C in the summer!

 

[Layson]

It pays to have a nice cherry picker too!!

 

[SkySki Jason]

It pays to have a nice cherry picker too!!

Mine (2 ton) was on sale for $159 at HF... :rockon: Keep an eye on 'tools' section on CL - I see them cheeep all the time.

 

[Whytry]

SkySki Jason That blue looks awesome

 

[thuglike]

Clean the hell out of the engine bay. Sound proof the firewall while you have the room to get in there.

As mentioned before.

Studs
springs
push rods
comp. test
headers
ati/fluidamper