Whos running rotella t6 5w-40 synthetic

Blacksmokin22 · May 12, 2014

I run t6 in my 6.0 but didn't know if it's good in the 6.4's also. Egr deleted, straight exhaust, and tuned. Let me know what y'all guys do, thanks!

forcefed6.4ford · May 12, 2014

All I run.

NY_Mott · May 12, 2014

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34325

This might help a little.

Blacksmokin22 · May 12, 2014

Thank y'all! I tried looking for a previous post just couldn't find one.

buck russell · May 13, 2014

Nope, I won't ever run a synthetic in my 6.4 ever again.

Just normal shell rotella conventional or shell rimula conventional oil.

njjeep · May 14, 2014

buck russell said:
Nope, I won't ever run a synthetic in my 6.4 ever again.

Just normal shell rotella conventional or shell rimula conventional oil.

Why won't you run synthetic?

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jimdawg185 · May 14, 2014

All PAO base stock synthetics are going to be basically the same with only three exceptions.

1) Proprietary additive packs. For the most part, these are really hard to prove their tangible benefits. I personally have seen benefits in industrial and really heavy duty applications. But I also work for a lubricant manufacture. So Ill leave my opinion out of this.

2) The quality and quantity of their anti wear add pack, detergent, and dispersants. This generally only effects oil drain intervals. API has minimum specs, so unless you go over 10k interval, this is not really a concern.

3) The additives like esters to offset a PAO's tendency to effect seals. PAO's are hard on seals, period. But, with the addition of an ester this can actually be negated.

A PAO is a great base oil, but it needs help in certain areas that a mineral oil does not. Keep in mind that there are 3 groups of mineral base stocks, and Group 2 and group 3 are very good at doing what PAO (group 4's) do. A hydrogenized group 2 or 3 have many less open hydrocarbon chains than group 1's, which is one of the things that PAO's enjoy. Internal resistance, Viscosity Index, and oxidative stability are all great with high quality mineral base stocks. And they dissolve additives better than a PAO, as well as not have issues with seals.

jimdawg185 · May 14, 2014

Also keep in mind that SAE standard viscosity ratings are based on temperature. 5w40 basically means its a 5 weight at 40c and acts like a 40 weight at 100c. So its just the low temp vis that is effected when dropping from an 15w40 to a 5w40.

travisH3 · May 15, 2014

we run it in our 6.7's, 6.4, 6.0, kubota, bobcat and john deere tractor. love it for the winter and dont want to switch back and forth so we run it all year round. best price to get it is $21 bux at walmart unless someone has it on sale

Jesse_01 · May 15, 2014

we have ran from t6 to discount oil with no labels on them in our trucks and equipment. Have yet to have an engine failure due to wear. So a lot of it imo is personal preference. What ever helps you sleep at night and what your pocket book can afford.

jimdawg185 · May 15, 2014

Jesse_01 said:
we have ran from t6 to discount oil with no labels on them in our trucks and equipment. Have yet to have an engine failure due to wear. So a lot of it imo is personal preference. What ever helps you sleep at night and what your pocket book can afford.

That is true to a degree.

We saved a customer 600k $ last year just in oil costs in a 1200 truck fleet ( oil changes were 15k, we can safely go out to 60-80k miles). We have doubled their rebuild intervals, and save them 3% in average fuel costs. Oil isn't all the same. It just all meets a minimum spec that you can bet on at a short interval...
I personally saved lots of $ last year extending my oil drains, and my engine is in perfect condition at 167k, just had the heads off to do studs, has almost zero blow by, you could eat off the rocker boxes, and that is at 20k mile interval on a tuned and drag raced 6.4....

Wayne · May 15, 2014

so what oil do you run, Jim? What do you prefer, and why? I realise you work for a specific brand, and I would like to see specifics as to your reasoning. Which oil do you comfortably run out to 20K? do you run a bypass filter, and still change the regular filter every 5K or so? I'm too lazy to bother with oil analysis up to this point, but with enough savings, I could see it being worthwhile.

Jesse_01 · May 15, 2014

jimdawg185 said:
That is true to a degree.

We saved a customer 600k $ last year just in oil costs in a 1200 truck fleet ( oil changes were 15k, we can safely go out to 60-80k miles). We have doubled their rebuild intervals, and save them 3% in average fuel costs. Oil isn't all the same. It just all meets a minimum spec that you can bet on at a short interval...
I personally saved lots of $ last year extending my oil drains, and my engine is in perfect condition at 167k, just had the heads off to do studs, has almost zero blow by, you could eat off the rocker boxes, and that is at 20k mile interval on a tuned and drag raced 6.4....

Yeah we change at 250hrs for equipment. 10k kms for vehicles.

What do you run for oil?

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Jesse_01 · May 15, 2014

I could handle an increase in fuel mileage. My mileage sucks running t6. Mind you I have 105k & 6000hrs on it. Lots of idle time.

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jimdawg185 · May 15, 2014

I don't care if you run liquid gold from the moon with Jesus tears dipped in, extended oil changes need some analysis.

I work for Lubrication Engineers. I run our 8854, which is a 5w40 Group 4 PAO synthetic. I am switching to a 20-50 mineral oil because one of the general rules of machinery lubrication is high load requires higher viscosity. That is why those 3000hp funny cars run a straight 70 weight.
I change the filter every 5k, dirt still gets in no matter how good the oil is. And the better the detergents and dispersants are, the more the filter will load up with crap.

In the end, if your PMs are set according to your manufactures spec and you are using an API cert oil. Everything will be dandy. But, there are advantages to high performance lubricants if all the data is taken into consideration.

High idle time on specific engines can eliminate the possibility for extended oil change intervals because of fuel dilution. This is true mostly on newer IH with DPF's ad such. That is one key advantage to analysis. I find this out before I even consider selling a customer my oil. If it wont' help them, I am not interested. Unless its a severe duty situation, then things change.
We have many many farmers that go 800-1000hrs or more on our stuff. But again, its a change in PM mentality entirely.

Jesse_01 · May 15, 2014

I will go get an oil and take a look. Maybe get you to explain it to me haha. I thinking I am close to 5k so far. I may keep track of my hrs next time also.

I am not running a dpf or ccv either.

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jimdawg185 · May 15, 2014

Any one, any oil. I love to help make stuff run better.

capt dong · May 15, 2014

hey jimdawg when you were running 20k intervals did you notice a fuel mileage decrease? the closer i get to 10k miles on mine i lose a mpg. ive only run mc 15w-40. i also change filters every 5k.

jimdawg185 · May 15, 2014

No, no drop. MC isnt an oil I think you should go much farther than 6-8k on. Its not a bad oil, but its not made to extend on. If you want, I can help you sample at the end of your PM and we can take a look at it.

At 20k, my oil was still good enough according to analysis to go another 10+. Fuel dilution was at 2.2 though. No reason to take a chance.

capt dong · May 15, 2014

my last blackstone was at 9500 miles and they suggested i take it further. i can post the tests if thatll help. i also dont mind sending future samples.

whats this oil youre going 20k on?