With a programmer/chip is it better to keep overdrive turned off?

brandisux10

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I have a 2001 f-250 7.3 with a sct x3 37 inch tires an 8 inch lift and stock 4r100, I was wondering if it would be better for my transmission if I turned overdrive off.
 

Boomer

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Unless your transmission is hunting gears, you shouldn't have a problem. That is, unless you like buying more diesel for some reason.


Sent from a smart phone by a dumb guy.
 

neverkickn

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I lock out od all the time unless I am towing real light or unloaded, which is rare for me. But like said before if you can run down the road without the constant back and forth between gears and your egts are in check then keep it in od.
 

vanderchevy18

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I had that discussion with Brian Thompson. He said that if you are in town doing a lot of speeding up and slowing down (without going over 50), or are in a hilly area (like Leadhill Arkansas) turn the OD off. Its easier on the trans.
 

brandisux10

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funny story, a few hours after I posted that my truck wouldn't shift out of first gear until redline, I returned the tune to stock and my o/d light started blinking, this is looking expensive
 

Boomer

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Well, all the advice given obviously precludes existing transmission problems. Good luck getting it figured out.


Sent from a smart phone by a dumb guy.
 

TyCorr

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If the o/d light is flashing you overheated it or the VSS in the rear diff is unplugged or deffective...

Check the VSS first. Then wonder why you dont have a trans temp gauge next.

Is the trans slipping too? Come to a complete stop. Check for other cars. Put the pedal to the floor does it accelerate to a decent speed without strange noises and lurching?

Here's the deal: With a stock truck, lifting is like putting a load on it, it creates some stress. Then throw a tuner on it and you've got a stressed drivetrain that is constantly under a load of which is more than the oem accounted for in terms of load and power. The tuner is nice to get the big tires and heavy truck rolling quicker but it comes at a cost. Increased wear on parts. You probably just pushed your trans to the point of no return. Burnt steels and overheated clutch paks. Time for a rebuild and better torque convertor.

If you plan on adding big inj's and turbos and other power adders then you need to get a custom built high performance trans. Do some research before you plunk it down!
 

Tampa450

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If the o/d light is flashing you overheated it or the VSS in the rear diff is unplugged or deffective...

Not necessarily.... My OD light was flashing when I had a Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid go out.

Get the codes read,,,,
 

BigRed97

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the OD will flash "almost" any time there is a fault code generated from transmision components

I say "almost" becuase there are certain "soft" codes that will set and store, but will not turn the like on, grear ratio error codes come to mind first
 

TyCorr

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It sounds like it got hot to me.... burned up trans would be in keeping with what he said its doing. 8" lift and 37's + a tuner...
 

TyCorr

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yeh its done, its gettin built up now, and yes I know I need a trans temp gauge badly

Its no big deal, man! I mean the trans is expensive but its your truck and its not like you were whining so you wont get the typical "Jesus christ man! You shoulda had a f*&^ing gauge in there!" I have pretty much an identical truck and killed mine the same way. How many miles are on your truck? I have 265k with a tuner and 6"lift/37's+. Put the 38r on it and switched to Bills tunes from PHP and it was like that for three weeks before it ate the trans.

I burned mine up with the gauge in there!! It was 100* out and I was hotrodding down the interstate and by the time I got off the interstate after three hours the temp was up around 220*. I pulled over at a gas station and let it idle. The temp dropped to 175 and I headed home, about ten miles on a two laner. I drove about four miles and the trans was up to 240!!! I said screw it and drove 45mph the rest of the way...trans temp peaked at 255 and it started slipping down my street. Changed the fluid, drove it to work the one day and it was fine in the morning. The temp was up around 100* and on the way home it started shifting horribly and changing gears real early. Fluid was fried.....AGAIN!!!
 

TyCorr

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yeh its done, its gettin built now

Who's building this one? What are you doing different this time?

You should probably get a bigger/better cooler if your builder isnt doing/recommending it already. The 26 row 6L cooler is probably the best from what ive heard, they make a 31 but nobody has said it works better. Im guessing the 26 is at the peak of efficiency and nothing more needs to be done.
 

brandisux10

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any recommendations or preferances for brands of gauges? I'm planning on just getting the usual three pillar (boost psi, trans temp, and egt)
 

vanderchevy18

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That's all personal preference. My favorite is Autometer Z series. I only have 1 complaint about autometer. Their boost gauge T uses a rubber boot to connect the line to the T. Problem is it cracks and slips out. When you install it, wrap electrical tape around the boot and go an inch or two up the line. Never had an issue since. Other than that, I have yet to hear a bad review. Very accurate, no premature failures, well priced, and they match the oem gauges great.




Ok. On a side note.... What the heck is up with your screen name? Did you just break up with a girl friend ir something? LOL
 

vanderchevy18

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I see. So deep down you made a Froidian slip. You wrote 10 implying 10" trying to compensate for a lack of size...... Interesting. Is that also why you drive a large truck?




LOLLOLLOL Sorry. Just messing with ya. Couldn't resist.
 

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