Won't Start In Cold Temperatures...Many Parts Changed

[EasternOntarioPowerstroke]

I realuze this is a tired topic snd I have searched but usually the issues have been solved by ine of the following. I have a 2000 F250 7.3 that does not start in temps lower than 35 degrees (5 degrees celsius). I have changed; starter relay, starter with a Denso high torque, glow plug relay, both batteries with Motorcraft 850 CCA, fuel filter. I have also tested all 8 glow plugs and their harnesses, as well as the alternator. Truck does start and run great if it has been plugged in. Any idea of where to check next?


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[Magnum PD]

Maybe the coolant temperature sensor.

 

[neverkickn]

I wasn't aware that fueling was effected by coolant temp. I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that a bad eot sensor would cause a no start situation. The timing might be a little weird though.

Sounds reminiscent of an injector issue to me.

 

[Magnum PD]

If the sensor isn't giving the computer a true reading that "it's cold" and not turning the glowplugs on for a longer amount of time, that MAY be the reason why it won't start cold. If sensor is bad, my just send the computer a default 72 degree reading. Just a thought.

 

[Magnum PD]

How long is your wait to start light staying on?

 

[mustube]

Coolant temp sensor goes straight to the gauge on a 7.3, so the PCM doesn't see the coolant temp, and if he was able to test the gpr then it's probably working fine. Sounds like injectors to me too. My truck did the same thing when my original injectors gave up in January.

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[Magnum PD]

Probably right. But what tells the glowplugs how long to stay on?

 

[EasternOntarioPowerstroke]

WTS comes on 5-10 seconds


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[lincolnlocker]

Maybe the coolant temperature sensor.

My scanner says my coolant temp is -30 at all times.. so I dont think that relates to fuel.

Probably right. But what tells the glowplugs how long to stay on?

EOT - Engine oil temp

WTS comes on 5-10 seconds


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Wait to start should come on for up to 45 seconds to warm glowplugs but depending on eot, they can stay on up to 2 minutes total even after the wts light goes out.. I would guess your eot sensor is jacked.

live life full throttle

 

[lincolnlocker]

EOT and intake air temp sensors have to do with high idle I believe. Just a fyi

live life full throttle

 

[Zaairman]

Have you confirmed that there is actually power to the GPR and that the glow plugs are getting said power?

 

[gnxtc2]

I am having the same problem with my truck.

I have the Stancor relay for the GPR. When I turn the key on, the relay wont close (engage). I am getting 12v key power to one side of the coil. Seems like the PCM is not providing the ground. I usually have to cycle the key a few times for the relay to close. I knew if the relay closed by the volt meter gauge. If the volt meter was way down, the motor would start. Also I would hit "Charge Protect" on the AIC to confirm and it would read 10.9v-11.2v when the GPs are energized.

When I first start the motor (cold) lately, there would be an extended crank even if I saw the volt meter down. Today, I could not start the motor. I had to jump the big terminals with my linemans pliers and the motor fired right up.

I feel like just bypassing the PCM by installing a switch to manually control the GPR but I'm concerned if there is something else wrong with the PCM. I also wondering if the baro sensor has anything to do with the GP strategy. Today was a cold, rainy miserable day (low 40s).

When I plug the motor in, it starts no problem.

Does the IDM have anything to do with the GPs? The Baro sensor has something to do with glow plugs. I think up to '99 the Baro sensor was external and then it was moved into the PCM.

Did anyone ever come across this?

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/sia/sia00039.htm

Billy T.
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