ZF6 problem

Big Calo · May 5, 2013

Just purchased a 2001 F250, and have no 3rd or 4th gear. It shifts perfectly through R-L-1-2-absolutely nothing in 3 & 4-then have to do a little hunting for OD, but nothing real serious. With the truck idling, clutch engaged, and stopped, I can move the lever into 3rd & 4th, just as easily as I can move it side to side in neutral. While moving same thing. Clutch engaged can go from 3rd-4th, just like in neutral. Does not grind, make any noise, no howling, or anything out of the ordinary.

Talked to one shop, and they suggested that a pin could have sheared on a shift fork? Seems plausible to me, as the transmission seems perfectly fine in every other way. Any ideas? I picked this truck up for $1250 so not wanting to drop a huge chunk on it. If it is a sheared pin, can it be fixed without pulling the tranny?

Thanks!

POWER-STRUCK · May 5, 2013

will have to pull it and split it

Big Calo · May 6, 2013

That's not exactly what I wanted to hear, but anyway. Does it seem like a minor issue most likely?

lincolnlocker · May 6, 2013

is the truck in that bad of shape that you don't wanna put money into it?

Big Calo · May 6, 2013

It's kinda on the line. Drive train seems solid, but body isn't so great. Was hoping it could be fixed from the topside, and I could just drive the wheels off it. If it comes down to it I'll have it rebuilt. If it seems minor Ill pull it and have it rebuilt, if not I'll try to find a salvage unit.

lincolnlocker · May 6, 2013

midwest trans should be able to help ya out i would think... depending on the route you wanna go...

POWER-STRUCK · May 6, 2013

its not a major operation, but it does require some expirience along with patience to set up end play. also special tools are required to remove bearing cups. more than likely the shift fork has the ears worn off of it, this usually only happens when the main shaft has too much end play or pressure is constantly applied to the shifter (resting hand on the shifter)

Big Calo · May 6, 2013

Thanks, Power Struck.

Guess ill drop it out.

Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto · May 6, 2013

If its only a shift fork you wouldn't have to pull any bearings. Just split the cases, drive out the pins and disassemble the shift forks. Replace fork and reassemble. Not the way ford recommends but you can do it on the cheap with out re-shimming it.

POWER-STRUCK · May 7, 2013

Sledpull said:
If its only a shift fork you wouldn't have to pull any bearings. Just split the cases, drive out the pins and disassemble the shift forks. Replace fork and reassemble. Not the way ford recommends but you can do it on the cheap with out re-shimming it.

where would you suggest the aluminum from the shift fork went? or why it went bad? the driven bearings probably have metal shavings in them also. please atleast check the end play!
without finding the root cause the failure may return prematurely and the repair would be a complete waste of money and time. what's a little more time cost? checking the end play of each shaft independently would be the propper method. if the main shaft did have excessive play it will jump out of 4th gear also causing pilot bearing failures, possibly clutch failures, not to mention poor shift quality along with excessive gear noise. wouldn't it be worth the piece of mind to know the quality of the product? also if a person wanted to sell the transmission wouldn't it be worth more knowing exact measurements and condition?

I do not want to step on anyone's toes I'm just particular about details and preventing repeat failures. the repair can be done any way you would like, but i'm just giving my insight since this is something i do for a living thus having to place a guarantee on the workmanship.

Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto · May 7, 2013

POWER-STRUCK said:
where would you suggest the aluminum from the shift fork went? or why it went bad? the driven bearings probably have metal shavings in them also. please atleast check the end play!
without finding the root cause the failure may return prematurely and the repair would be a complete waste of money and time. what's a little more time cost? checking the end play of each shaft independently would be the propper method. if the main shaft did have excessive play it will jump out of 4th gear also causing pilot bearing failures, possibly clutch failures, not to mention poor shift quality along with excessive gear noise. wouldn't it be worth the piece of mind to know the quality of the product? also if a person wanted to sell the transmission wouldn't it be worth more knowing exact measurements and condition?

I do not want to step on anyone's toes I'm just particular about details and preventing repeat failures. the repair can be done any way you would like, but i'm just giving my insight since this is something i do for a living thus having to place a guarantee on the workmanship.

Ya I know your point. I also do this for a living. I have done quite a few zf's in my day. And a lot more manual transmissions other than zf's. If the shift fork is merely broken off because of and abusive driver or a weak fork, and everything else checks out well, then there is no reason the op could not replace it. The question was, can it possibly fixed without a full rebuild. The answer, yes, depending.

I've replaced many broken forks without gouging someone for a whole $1500 rebuilt that's not necessary. I don't disagree about checking the end play and bearings. These transmissions can break and be fixed without replacing everything just because.

To the OP; disassemble, clean, inspect and replace what is bad. If it is a mess and is more than just a simple fix then you will need to have further work done.

Big Calo · May 7, 2013

Thanks for the input guys. I'll kick around what I'm going to do. Any suggestions for a good manual?

Binder man · May 13, 2013

I had the same thing with one of my old trucks. Lost 3rd then shortly there after lost 4th. It was a shift fork issue. It had a groove worn in it. $400 bucks in parts and it was good to go.

Big Calo · May 16, 2013

Well guys, got the trans dropped out, and off to the shop. They called and said it was shot, and quoted me $2,500 for a complete rebuild. $1,500 for just a patch up job, with no warranty.

I don't mind paying for quality workmanship and parts, but at the same time I'm not wanting to get hosed and line anyones pockets. That really set me back, way more than even what I was assuming would be worst case senario. Is that quote in line with market value? Trans seemed pretty solid other than the issues I've listed, and for sure didn't show signs that would warrant a full rebuild?

I'm trying to figure out what to do, I'll pay it, if it is a fair price, but I'm trying to run down some other options too.

POWER-STRUCK · May 16, 2013

sounds a bit salty since you are doing the R&R

Binder man · May 16, 2013

with labor when mine happened for someone else to R&R and fix it would have been $800. Sounds like they want to sell you a tranny.

Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto · May 16, 2013

Big Calo said:
Well guys, got the trans dropped out, and off to the shop. They called and said it was shot, and quoted me $2,500 for a complete rebuild. $1,500 for just a patch up job, with no warranty.

I don't mind paying for quality workmanship and parts, but at the same time I'm not wanting to get hosed and line anyones pockets. That really set me back, way more than even what I was assuming would be worst case senario. Is that quote in line with market value? Trans seemed pretty solid other than the issues I've listed, and for sure didn't show signs that would warrant a full rebuild?

I'm trying to figure out what to do, I'll pay it, if it is a fair price, but I'm trying to run down some other options too.

You can buy a full reman trans and send yours in for a core for $1800.