the build before the build

[sootie]

Yea, you don't see me racing it do you? I drive it for what I intended it for. Not everyone has 10k+ to drop into a motor with rods a pistons. I'm 24 years old and have worked my a** off to have this truck, and the 50k that I've put into it already. Not to mention owning my own house and everything that goes with it. But hey.... top 5 fuel only, on a stock bottom end.... I'm just giving you a goal to work towards ;-)

meh...i know the size of my cock, no need to try to get on some list to make my life complete.

oh and everything else you mentioned....i'm in the same boat as you. well besides not being able to build the bottom end-i've had it done a few times now...

LOL

Not too worried about the rods , i think they should be good for no more than I plan on doing right now. Pistons scare me worse haha but it will be gated either way so hopefully it wont be too bad. Honestly I think I may go with the atmo for now seems how its quick and cheap.
Should it still be gated off an up pipe with the atmo? Or is there a better way? Also has a regulator

i am gated off an uppipe and it works fine.
i'm a big fan of compounds for trucks that get worked and are heavy like crew cabs. for a reg cab you could get away with a bigger single because the truck is lighter. also-dont compare the cost of a single with the cost of a drop in atmo. compound setups that make you big power like madmans or ncollins64 or thuglike or ingrahams cost 10k+

thats why i say-a single kit now with the option for a large atmo later is the way to go. easy to swap turbos and change up the setup to get exactly what you want.

 

[stroker221]

Are you runnin a single right now? I know what you mean with the singles and compounds. No matter what I do I'm gonna end up gettin a big single and adding to it later down the road

 

[sootie]

Are you runnin a single right now? I know what you mean with the singles and compounds. No matter what I do I'm gonna end up gettin a big single and adding to it later down the road

nope-i tow way too much and it i put 600 miles a week on so a single is not for me LOL

 

[stroker221]

Anyone know if taking lp turbo out without hp is easier? Or they gotta come out together

 

[sootie]

its easiest together.


remove air intake, remove heat shield from the top of the turbos. unbolt the fuel cooler and swing it out over the battery. remove the u-bend tube that goes into the HP turbo. undo the two big bolts that hold the pedestal to the block. reach around and unbolt the uppipes from the back of the pedestal MAJOR PITA. then stick a pry bar between the intake manifold and turbo housing on each side of the engine and gently rock the turbo assembly "without crushing the lines at all" until it gets dislodged from the tapered pins it sits on.

another option is to pull the inner fenders and unbolt the uppipes from the manifolds first, then once you get the turbos partway out, unbolt the uppipes from the pedastal once there is room to get at them.

 

[White_monster]

Can swap the atmo in a hour with both turbos in the truck. Done it many times.

 

[sootie]

to the OP, sorry, i though you were removing for a single LOL

here is a link to me changing just the lp

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showpost.php?p=834003&postcount=99

 

[stroker221]

Nice write up. Hopefully ill be able to get it out in a day. But after reading that I kinda want a 73 atmo now.

 

[sootie]

Nice write up. Hopefully ill be able to get it out in a day. But after reading that I kinda want a 73 atmo now.

now that i have done it a couple of times it would only take an hour or so. Ya-a 73 atmo is about as big as you would use on stock fuel. the only thing you could do over and above that is a 59mm HP which is actually what i have now i just havent updated my build thread for a long time.

 

[B585Ford]

now that i have done it a couple of times it would only take an hour or so. Ya-a 73 atmo is about as big as you would use on stock fuel. the only thing you could do over and above that is a 59mm HP which is actually what i have now i just havent updated my build thread for a long time.

With all due respect, I disagree. I have run stockers, a 71, and then a 76 (all with a stock VGT) and by far, the 76 has been my favorite setup to date. I did do 15% nozzles (still stock single HPFP) when I did the 76 so I can't say exactly what it would have been like with stock nozzles, but this thing lights quicker than stock now and has a good bit more top end than the 71 on stock nozzles that could maintain RP. I can't maintain RP on 2.3 tune right now. I still need to cut my PW so I can get the most out of this setup and figure I will like it even more when I do.

 

[sootie]

obviously you disagree-you aren't stock fuel.

 

[B585Ford]

obviously you disagree-you aren't stock fuel.

No, but the limitation in stock fuel and my setup is the same....the single stock HPFP. Again, I can't say for sure how quick it would spool on stock nozzles (which I suspect would be very close to stock) but I would bet the farm a 75/76 would have more top end than a 73 and since this truck is going to see the strip the most, a 75 or 76 would probably do better than a 73 for his intended purposes (at the strip).

 

[sootie]

wrong. stock fuel means single pump-factory size nozzles.

I'm sure if he wanted to go high powers or some expensive compound setup he could break 700HP stock fuel. he indicated drop in which is why i was saying what i did. a 76mm atmo does not get driven hard enough on stock fuel to even use it to its full potential. he will be hard pressed to make over 650 on any drop in turbo setup on stock fuel.


also-only so much air can pass thru the factory HP turbo. anything over 73mm is a waste as it cant get thru the hp turbo and causes insane ebp

 

[B585Ford]

He would not be using a 76 on stock fuel to its full potential, but that doesn't mean there isn't a benefit. The data is out there already...on stock fuel, a 76 makes more power than a 72.6 at least with Precision drop ins. I have never seen data on Barder or RCD. The Precision was on the same truck, same setup (but not the same day). From personal experience, I am leaving power on the table because I can't maintain RP so it is safe to assume my nozzles are hurting my top end, but my truck has considerably more power than with a 71. Based on other data I referred to earlier, unless the Barder is a lot better than Precision, a 73 will be slower than a 76....would this not be what the OP was looking for?
For the record, I am a big fan of Barder also. One day I plan to run Tow X, HPs, or custom Garrett setup. Until then, I will be adding a Barder 59 to my 76.

 

[sootie]

i think the unproven smidgen of gain the 76 may have over the 73 while still retaining the factory HP turbo is not worth it because of the cost difference.

 

[B585Ford]

IIRC stock fuel, stock VGT and swapping from a 72.6 to a 76 netted 20-30 RWHP. The difference in price is about $650. I can't compare Barder or RCD because I have never seen data on the same truck for a similar swap. That is still one of the cheapest HP improvement you can make. IMO it is worth it...in you opinion, it isn't....ultimately the OP can decide.

 

[madman1234509]

I think any drop in and stock fuel are good options. A drop in 76 will be just fine on stock fuel. The tests are out there. Only benefit I see is that on stock fuel you won't get the back pressure issues that You may see with bigger nozzles. The stock drop ins can only flow so much so sometimes so at some point throwing more fuel at it won't net you anything but more heat.

 

[sootie]

you get the same backpressure issues when your HP cant handle the volume the atmo is trying to shove thru it-even on stock fuel.

 

[madman1234509]

You get back pressure issues from the amount of exhaust you're motor is trying to push through the turbine. You get flow restriction and heat from your hp not being able to flow enough intake air. Really what it'll come down to is you pushing the high pressure out of it's compressor map, creating extra heat from flow restriction, and grenading it. There's more to it then the high pressure just being able to "flow" . You've got to remember it's trying to compress already compressed air.

Do you have any idea what kind of back pressure people are seeing with a 75 or 76mm drop in and a stock hp turbo? Or is all of this just speculation? I'm just curious. I haven't heard of anyone having back pressure issues with a 76 drop in on stock fuel. Our vgt housing is huge when the veins are open all the way.

I bet I see more back pressure on a daily basis with my set up then any drop in and stock fuel

 

[sootie]

with a 73mm and stock HP i was maxing the sensor.