Riff Raff oil pan gasket

MossBack · May 1, 2014

Cleaned off all the old rtv. ( used victor gray instead of ford so that could be why it wouldn't seal).

Hammered her flat then followed the directions and installed studs. Rtv the front and rear as well as corners with a dab. Installed pan and gasket then torqued to 15 ft lbs then again to 20.

Moss Diesel Service

TyCorr · May 1, 2014

I bought a parts store pan and it was nicer than fords part. And it wasn't 400 bucks. My part was made in USA to boot. Fords was not.

That was last spring. It sealed up just fine per the standard instructions. 1/4 on the sides 3/8 on the front and rear. I put it a little more liberally where the surface was irregular. The rear has a line running through the pan rail and it needs to have a little more to compensate for the irregularity. If you didn't t clean up well you won't even see that.

I hate to say it, but several of those I've done people don't clean the surface well and also don't know how to use a caulk gun. If you make a huge mess, don't even try it.

m j · May 3, 2014

Ron's Power Stroke said:
i posted this very same gasket over on PSN before the army was created..no one was a fan of it at that time..what gives other then most of the big pony guy's are not posting up anymore ?

did you call it a riffraff gasket or a Moroso Gasket over there?

Ron's Power Stroke · May 3, 2014

it was a link in a thread over there for a Moroso Gasket http://www.moroso.com/eb/catalog/se...modelFilter=&yearFilter=&pr=&searchTerm=27293 ... i looked but cant seem to find the thread.

rusty1161 · Jun 11, 2014

Four Wheeler did an article with this gasket and the Moroso pan. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1405-ford-73l-power-stroke-oil-pan-repair-problem-solved/

Rusty

Black 02 · Jun 11, 2014

I used it on my engine. The engine only ran for 30 minutes before blowing a freeze plug, but it didn't leak.

White Buffalo · Jun 12, 2014

Just ordered one, will post up some pics when we pull the motor next month......

BigRedDiesel · Jun 12, 2014

So this would probably eliminate the need for pulling the engine to do this? Anyone done it this way yet? Even in the article they pulled the engine.

2000wa250 · Jun 12, 2014

In theory, yes it would eliminate having to pull motor, however I'm assuming this gasket, like others, requires a completely clean mating surface between gasket and block as well as gasket and pan.... not sure but last time I checked there really isn't much room under the motor to clean the surface, not to mention gravity would be working against you....

Could it be done? As I said, in theory yes. Would I promote or advise that this gasket eliminates the need to pull the motor? NOPE!

Then again, with enough will power, beer, and perseverance pretty much anything can be done. Then again, with something that can cause a truck not to run, or if it fails can create a huge mess and potentially leave you stranded, I'd rather do it the right way once than a different way multiple times.

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PDT1081 · Jun 12, 2014

BigRedDiesel said:
So this would probably eliminate the need for pulling the engine to do this? Anyone done it this way yet? Even in the article they pulled the engine.

My brother had his oil pan changed using this gasket and not pulling the motor. 02 ECSB 4x4.

IHPowerstroke7.3 · Jun 13, 2014

I did my oil pan on my 2000 7.3 engine in chassis using silicone, 2 years no leaks. I also had the pan coated in line x bed liner coating so it will never (hopefully) rot through again!

Tom S · Jun 13, 2014

IHPowerstroke7.3 said:
I did my oil pan on my 2000 7.3 engine in chassis using silicone, 2 years no leaks. I also had the pan coated in line x bed liner coating so it will never (hopefully) rot through again!

And how did you accomplish that?

IHPowerstroke7.3 · Jun 16, 2014

Remove transmission, had to take it out for an overhaul anyways. Take two bolts out of the fan shroud, pull it off of the tabs on the radiator and just lay it on the fan. Take off the flexplate, adapter and trans bell housing adapter. Jack the engine up in the rear as far as you can without hitting anything. Put a couple flex plate bolts back in, slide a bar across the frame rails to rest the engine on. Put a chain around the bar in case it slides off the bolts. Jack the front up at the crank. Pull pan bolts, have to drop pan and carefully remove oil pickup tube with pan in place. Comes right out and yes my truck is a 4x4. Let it drip overnight, go over the pan edges with a rag before you install pan. Put silicone down the sides, get pan in position. Then silicone the ends, bolt it in.

When you work on rusty **** boxes all day, people tend to figure stuff out. Had I known there was a pan gasket available I may have tried it.

DZL JIM · Jun 26, 2014

How many hours you figure from start to finish?
We are always looking for more practical ways to change a pan than pulling a motor.
And I know all about rust.

TyCorr · Jun 26, 2014

Other than waiting for all the oil to run out, a noob can have the thing on a stand in four hours. Why fight it?

No way would I take a chance like that. If you must do it in truck, use the gasket. If you get silicone in the pan holes you can and most likely will cause issues.

IHPowerstroke7.3 · Jun 28, 2014

Doesn't take long to do in chassis. Can be done on a lift in under 6 hours no problem. Best to have pan out at end of the day, drip over night to keep things dry.

Pulling an engine on a F-series isn't a big deal, an e series however not as fun. Can use this method for both.

White Buffalo · Aug 17, 2014

Well, we used one on my Excursion and it freakin leaks:doh:. Rocky (Rockin S) didn't really want to use it but I talked him into it......not leaking much, like a dog in heat - still gonna have to come out again sooner or later.:fustrate:

PDT1081 · Aug 17, 2014

White Buffalo said:
Well, we used one on my Excursion and it freakin leaks:doh:. Rocky (Rockin S) didn't really want to use it but I talked him into it......not leaking much, like a dog in heat - still gonna have to come out again sooner or later.:fustrate:

Where is it leaking? You still need to use some silicone on the corners.

Also, new or used pan?

Swaan · Aug 17, 2014

Never understood why people want to use a gasket on the oil pan. The factory way is bullet proof. I've seen rusted out oil pans and leaking dip stick adapters but never the actuall oil pan rail leaking.
Just use the factory international or ford silicon and if done right it's good for the life of the engine. Done!!
I think people like to be different. Just because they make a gasket now, doesn't make it any better then the original design. JMO.

DEEZUZ · Aug 17, 2014

Swaan said:
Never understood why people want to use a gasket on the oil pan. The factory way is bullet proof. I've seen rusted out oil pans and leaking dip stick adapters but never the actuall oil pan rail leaking.
Just use the factory international or ford silicon and if done right it's good for the life of the engine. Done!!
I think people like to be different. Just because they make a gasket now, doesn't make it any better then the original design. JMO.

this.