6.4 owner looking for a 4 digit HP number

White_monster

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Does a person need forged rods? Maybe, maybe not. Forged rods run about $3500. New pistons if want to drop the compression ratios bit are about $2000 after coating. All new bearings and seals for the short block are cheap but any machine work can add up fast.

Here's my advice for you.

Build the short block the best you can so it doesn't have to come out again. Even if it means less hp due to funds at least you can upgrade later and not have to worry. Hard to upgrade rods and pistons but it's easy to upgrade injectors and stuff like that.
 

Dustball8504

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I think the cost of 1k hp is what scares most people from making it. Sure, its "easy" to spit a dyno sheet and track times that prove 1k but those builds won't be reliable for long or last a long time either.

White_monster has it right, do it right the first time and be done.
 

Craig@MFI

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You dont need deep pockets to have a fun street driveable 1000hp as long as you do it right the first time and dont buy everything you see in magazines...and as far as a single you can daily drive it fine all it takes is some tuning that is just about done
 

Craig@MFI

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who has bent a rod? at 1000hp i thought i did in my motor and there were found out not to be bent at all
as long as you keep back pressure down and dont go over 100 psi of boost i believe the bottom end is strong

every once in a while youll get a motor to crack a piston but that happens on stock trucks just as much as modified trucks
 

LovinPSDs

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Really Craig. And what would the cost to replace that tweaked rod for the average guy? The cost to prevent further bent rods down the road?

The walking on egg shells feeling to me isn't worth any amount of savings. I'd rather have a reliable 650hp that I can completely beat on then fingers crossed 800+.

I've not really enjoyed my trucks in a long time because of all the tranny problems in the KR and because the other one is on a high mileage tranny... Both are running on fairly low IDP tunes simply because i'd rather be confident in them.
 

Craig@MFI

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we offer to customers to do cut and coated pistons and drop comp for 4k when cabs off and doing builds to help with add hp but its not really needed
 

Craig@MFI

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The walking on egg shells feeling to me isn't worth any amount of savings. I'd rather have a reliable 650hp that I can completely beat on then fingers crossed 800+.

I've not really enjoyed my trucks in a long time because of all the tranny problems in the KR and because the other one is on a high mileage tranny... Both are running on fairly low IDP tunes simply because i'd rather be confident in them.
thats why we dont even try selling a 5r110 in a build of this caliber..my bts never had a problem at 1000hp and either did my motor til i did compounds now the problems started but we are well over 1000 now
 

forcefed6.4ford

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But it failed non the less. At or over 1000hp, rods should be on everyone's build list, pistons too to eliminate the likelihood of the lip on the bowl starting a crack and failing. Ive been down that road before and it sucks. Dual fuel kits are not cheap. Nore are turbos, trannies and manifolds. It can not be done and maintain reliability. The only 2 trucks that I know of that have been fairly close to 1000hp and survived for extended periods of time, and one that has been beaten hard are Mal's and Eriks trucks. Ask them what they have spend on their current builds. Bet its over 20K

I'm not trying to take away what you've done thus far with an all stock engine. Your numbers are remarkable but the average guy doesnt have a shop at his disposal nor the parts at hand to fix stuff when it goes south. Build it once right and forget about it. And to do that you are looking a a lot of money.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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Or you could buy Shone Patel's truck as he's selling it and it has everything already on it and makes 1040hp.
I think he is asking 80,000 for his rig. waaaaaay more than 20K in his setup too.
If you want a streetable and reliable 1000hp. Plan on spending way more then 20g
yup. I am way over 30K, and I have no where near 1 K HP... when we are all tuned, I should be looking at 800-850...
30K is a nice start. What ever you think it will cost you will always be short. Always. For example. Turbos (MP's), Intake/exhaust manifolds, trans, dual fuelers, and injectors will very close to 30K. Get into the guts of the engine and thing go up from there.
Im at 9900.00 buying my stuff used not including the trans and a lp fuel system. 700hp build.
yup. exactly.

I'm 50k into my build, thats including shipping parts to Canada. No trans in the're either.

I will prob be somewhere near 40 K total when all is said and done. I did not do rods and pistons, but I am no where near the power level of you guys. PLus I did mine for fun, not competition. I will prob DD my 250 at 550-600 hp tune, and crank her up for events.
 

jdgleason

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I wouldn't count out the 5R110 as being out of the game at 1,000 horsepower. We have more than a few living at that power level. The 4R100 has proven to have a lot of the same issues as the 5r... They use a few of the same parts after all.
 

Craig@MFI

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If you like to piss money out the window do what you guys want we know absolutely nothing here so im done in this thread
 

Craig@MFI

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I wouldn't count out the 5R110 as being out of the game at 1,000 horsepower. We have more than a few living at that power level. The 4R100 has proven to have a lot of the same issues as the 5r... They use a few of the same parts after all.
what 5r110 has lived at track abuse other than a race truck for long periods of time? i counted over 100 1/4 mile passes that were between 10.8-11.3 and never missed a beat with my 4r....what 5r has done that?
 

faster6.0

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what 5r110 has lived at track abuse other than a race truck for long periods of time? i counted over 100 1/4 mile passes that were between 10.8-11.3 and never missed a beat with my 4r....what 5r has done that?

none lol
 

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