37's on a 4"

CSIPSD

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It will be interesting when I get these 16.5's mounted late this week.

Existing wheels are stock offset and 8" wide.

16.5's are unknown offset and 9.75" wide.

Toyo's are 37x13.5

Goodyears are 37x12.5 wide.

I fear some rub issues, but nothing a little hammer and heat cant fix.
 

Cody

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you sir have a bad azz truck. The looks are just perfect.

Thank you.. Needs spacers but then who knows if ill be able to turn at all.. Thinking of going to 35's and 20x10's with a more correct offset.. Time will tell
 

Black 02

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37's with a 6". If you haul stuff, I have zero idea how you can squat to the stops and not rub with a 4" lift.

I've hauled several tons in mine and the rear tire gets about 1/2" from the back side of the fender.

The front rubs on the leaf on hard turns to the left only.

I like the ability to run chains and not beat the shiz out of my fender also. You gotta have room. Course with a true 4x4, I've never found a place that I needed to be that I couldn't get to with the Black Dog.

That being said, I've been running the Super Swamper Truxxes Radial M/T 37x12.50x16.5 tires and I love them. They are actually almost a 38" tire according to Super Swamper. 10 ply radial with factory siping. They are quiet and handle awesome. I've had them over 100 mph, snow to the doors, and hauled two cord of wood on them. They work and they aren't like old school swampers. These have come a long way. 30k on them and probably 60% tread left.
 

CSIPSD

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Your axle has shifted back, thats why your rubbing on the back. Happened to me a few months/year ago. Center pin was broken.
 

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Black 02

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Your axle has shifted back, thats why your rubbing on the back. Happened to me a few months/year ago. Center pin was broken.

A good thought, but negative ghost rider.

I just had it apart. The pins are fine. Both pins are pushed back to the rear of the block hole when retorqued and the truck was 4 wheel aligned.
 

CSIPSD

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A good thought, but negative ghost rider.

I just had it apart. The pins are fine. Both pins are pushed back to the rear of the block hole when retorqued and the truck was 4 wheel aligned.

The axle should be centered...

Just saying.

Here is a picture of mine after the fix... Notice how the rear end is centered...

You have an issue there, I have had over 3200# in the bed of my truck with no rub issues...
 

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2000wa250

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Damn this is making the decision hard. I have a screaming deal on a set of gently used Toyo mt 37" with about 50% tread left on the most used ones. Only catch is I would have to go with 20" wheels.

What's the opinion on 35x20 tires? Not enough sidewall? I wanna go with 20s and these 37s for the price but don't want to be stuck with 37s if I don't like them

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

Black 02

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The axle should be centered...

Just saying.

Here is a picture of mine after the fix... Notice how the rear end is centered...

You have an issue there, I have had over 3200# in the bed of my truck with no rub issues...

I never said it rubbed, I just said my tire gets close.

The axle is centered unloaded. With the extended block for a 6" lift and the leafs bent in an upside down "U" because there is over 2-tons in it, the tire shifts to the back side of the fender. It's the geometry of the leaf motion. The weight actually causes the spring to start to "S" shape, which in turn rolls the axle towards the rear of the truck.

I have an advanced degree in engineering, I understand physics and geometry. :jammin:

We have different trucks with different lifts. Plus, you have baby tires and I have big boy tires. :D:swordfight:

More power to you, if it works:thumbsup:
 

DieselCowboy

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I run 20's with 35's and have absolutely no issues. I haul my 35ft 10ton gooseneck with my construction king Case backhoe and have never had an issue. The only time the truck didn't like it was when I was running 38.5X15.5 Nitto mud grapplers and hauling the same load. Not enough gear for that. I am very happy with my toyos. 15,000 miles and they still look new. Like everyone else has said though it all depends on the backspacing of your wheels. If you are worried about squatting I highly recommend helper bags in the rear. I have the firestone bags off of a semi, homemade setup.
 

CSIPSD

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I never said it rubbed, I just said my tire gets close.

The axle is centered unloaded. With the extended block for a 6" lift and the leafs bent in an upside down "U" because there is over 2-tons in it, the tire shifts to the back side of the fender. It's the geometry of the leaf motion. The weight actually causes the spring to start to "S" shape, which in turn rolls the axle towards the rear of the truck.

I have an advanced degree in engineering, I understand physics and geometry. :jammin:

We have different trucks with different lifts. Plus, you have baby tires and I have big boy tires. :D:swordfight:

More power to you, if it works:thumbsup:

I have 5" blocks and a 3" add a leaf in the back, Even with this load on it was not even close to rubbing...

But none the less, a 4" lift and 37's works great with the proper offset.
 

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2000wa250

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So the question is...what is the proper offset. I'm looking at a set of 20x10 Fuel Kranks with -24 offset....
 

TyCorr

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I'm sticking with 35s. Just because the 3.73 gears are perfect with em. I've still got 37s in the garage if I change my mind, lol.
 

TyCorr

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what is the proper backspace for 17in wheeles with 37in tires on a 6in lift???

17x? Keep in mind you can't select whatever specs you choose. Rims are made in usually one bs/offset based on width according to bolt pattern. If you have two choices select the one with the least negative offset. For example, if the 17x10 is available in -10 or -25 offset you'd choose -10.

I'm running 20x12, -44mm offset, and they barely breach the wheelwell.
 

TANK'S 250

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We have different trucks with different lifts. Plus, you have baby tires and I have big boy tires. :D:swordfight:

Compared to me, you have baby tires...on a big lift....:swordfight:

And I kinda agree, must be the camera angle then, because I've seen a bunch of trucks like yours, but none of them, even loaded, had the axle rotate anywhere near as bad as yours....either your blocks are off center, pin is busted, or the springs are on backwards...whatever it is...it's not right.


Here is a pic of my 41's, on a 4.5" lift...on top of a 3' stump...notice how my axle is still dead center...

36092f24.jpg
 

TANK'S 250

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I've told him... But he thinks he is right.

Maybe he is right...maybe nothing is broke....but...something is screwed up from the factory...or....the wrong rear springs got ordered....because the pin is definitely in the wrong place.

He says he is an Engineer and understands geometry....ok...awesome...but my pic proves that our trucks suspension geometry rides in an arch, a very mild one...no where near how far his is off.

...only way for us to be wrong...which could happen....is have him post a pic from the side unloaded..

.....if it is DEAD CENTER unloaded....and pushed all the way back loaded...then he is right-ish, but like I said,...i've seen MANY trucks, and none, didn't matter what year model, looked as bad as his..


.
 
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TANK'S 250

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Tank - is there something going on with my rear? It's always been that way, I thought you needed centering plates

Centering plates?....do you mean tapered shims?

If yours looks like his, then yes, something isn't right...hard part is figuring out what "it" is....pin in wrong spot(from factory), broken pin, worn spring eyes/bushings, etc.
 

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