Recent content by Old OutLaw

that's not "Blowby"....that's a cracked piston.

yeah, but there ain't any mountains in Fla. Jake .... LOL try pulling an actual Mountain sometime.... after the first 5 minutes, things are SCREAMING Hot....and you have 6-7 MILES left to go.... it takes a whole different set of tools.....

I bought a brand new one.... maybe yours had hit something before.... mine is used for pulling my 5th wheel.....I normally pull it at around 2,700-2,900 rpm... it seems to pull really well there, the torque peak is around 2,600, and this thing is a pullin' demon now.... you guys all think that...

did you buy a used one, or a new one ? haven't had a bit of trouble, but I never take it over about 3,000 rpm...

I would not rig it up like that first picture....too hard to change the pump if it goes out. mount the pump separately, so you can change it alongside the road if you have too.....

Frank, I've got a BTS, and a TS chip, with Tony Wildman's tunes, and mine does not do that. it shifts firmly thru all gears, in every position of the chip.

If it was me, I'd have somebody jerk that engine outta there and get those rods OUT, and install a re-worked, (resized, shot peened, magnafluxed, and balanced FORGED rods), before I did anything else to it. there have been people, (and more than one), who blew the rods with just a chip. you...

I put a PML trans pan on mine, (heavily finned cast aluminum), and am happy with it.... http://store.mrtruck.net/servlet/Detail?no=170 it does have a drain plug, a cast-in bumper to keep the Filter where it belongs, and it holds about 2 quarts more fluid than the 4x4 pan... with the same...

if you have ANY exhaust leaks before the turbo, it will heat like a banshee..... get underneath it with a GOOD light, and check the exhaust manifolds (CAREFULLY, the block is black, and soot will be hard to see) and the up-pipes....the donuts on the up-pipes are prone to leak, and WILL cause...

it was a PITAzz, but we did it from inside the cab, without tilting it... you have to cut out the floor as high as you can go, and lose the dash brace, but it's possible.... would I do it again? nope..... it does cool a bit better, and spools a bit better down low, othern that, no difference....

I've been to DieselTech...I would NOT go there again......

change the IPR.

and while you're contemplatin' all of the above, consider how old the plug and connectors are .... I have replaced the connectors on both the CPS, (and the ICP), for just that reason..... mine was eating CPS's every so often.... and you could actually wiggle the CPS connector while the engine...

I didn't read the whole thread, but I've been using a Carter SD replacement pump with 180cc Stage I's for well over a year with Zero probs..... I also believe that part of the problems associated with the e-fuel conversions are that a good share of the guys are using a pre-pump filter that is...

trade it off and get one with an auto then put a modded h2E on it, and drop Stage II's in it.....then you'll have a driver.