6.4 Puking

Wayne

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it would tell you the cooling system is building more pressure than allowable, which is likely why it's blowing out past the cap.
 

Cory S

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Here's the thing it only started puking when at the same time I had coolant residue in the exhaust.


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Cory S

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1340193901.363869.jpg coolant in exhaust


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Cory S

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Yea doing it this evening. Now my question is, on the lower cooler, how hard is it to remove? And can I put the coolant plugs in, remove the upper cooler cut the bottom flange of the upper cooler off, tig weld a cap on the flange and bolt the flange back on to the lower cooler (capped off). And leave the lower cooler on (with no coolant in it? If that makes sence.


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Wayne

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Do it right, and you'll be happy. No guarantee it's the EGR, but I'd definitely start there, especially if the EGR outlet is wet. To do a full basic EGR delete we charge 4 hours, and that includes removing the brackets, and torquing in new exhaust manifold bolts once the lower bracket is out. The lower cooler definitely takes some finesse, but it's not too bad. I always remove the dip stick so it doesn't interfere. Good luck. Hopefully that fixes it.
 

Cory S

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Ok I will do the whole delete! I was able to change put both thermostats by my self. So hopefully I can do this! Lol thanks for your help


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mortal798

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I did it in my driveway in the dark, and finished it up in the morning. Took me about 5 hours total, I could see doing it MUCH faster the next time - but hopefully there won't be a 'next time.'
 

B585Ford

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Which wont mean sh!t. A chemical test will.

A chemical test won't mean chit!!!! EGR failure or HG failure will cause a positive chemical test.

The pressure test can help you in trying to determine the cause of the puke...a bad cap (which we can probably rule-out due to coolant in the exhaust) you will never get to a pressure of 16 (the pressure at which the cap is suppose to release). If it is HG, when you are driving and floor it (or do whatever it takes to get it to around the conditions in which it pukes), the gauge will rise to 16 and drop to around 14 and hover in that area for a quite a while even after turning the truck off. If it is EGR, then the gauge will likely go up and down with boost more....if you floor it will rise to 16 and then when you let off it will drop a lot more. It cost me $16 to build and IMO is the most accurrate to determine if it HG versus EGR. Not a perfect test, but I have never seen it point in the wrong direction. Disclaimer: I have only helped perform it on 5 trucks. I have seen a positive chemical test with confirmed EGR failures.
 

B585Ford

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Delete the egr and call it a day

Of course, that is the most accurrate test. EGR deleted and still puke unless a bad cap, its HG. I did the pressure test just so I didn't have to do the EGR cab on...if it was HG (and mine was) I knew the cab was coming off so it could be pulled cab off.
 

907DAVE

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My mistake, I though he was talking about a pressure tester used for finding external leaks. It almost fell into that category where someone asks if he ran a compression test to see if it was a headgasket or not....lol.

The coolant out of the tail pipe is a dead give away.

Good luck, Cory. They really are not too bad to delete.
 

Cory S

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Well got the Egr deleted both coolers were ruptured. Having to run straight distilled water couldn't get coolant anywhere. Did the delete with out removing the inner fender and is wasn't bad at all! I used RCD instructions.

Now on the way home I ran it pretty hard got the ect up to about 203. On a hard pull. And when I got home opened the hood and it did puke a little bit. So probley my headgaskets?


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